wood boat plan packing

IwoodifIcould

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I bought plans for a wood boat designed by A. Pape. the design calls for packing "to be fitted under frames, between stringers in way of all floors". some of the designer descriptions are below.
since frames are bent, will the packing be bent too? I understand where the packing goes but I can't figure out the dimensions. I just can't figure out what the packing looks like. this is the only place in the plans where he mentions packing in that location. if anyone can shed some light it would be greatly appreciated.
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It's difficult without knowing all the construction details, I would be more interested in what a "main frame" is. Anyway, he is telling you to glue in wooden spacers shaped to fill the space created by the stringers between frame and planking or/and "main frame" and frame. Without them you create a potential rot pocket, air and water cannot move there because the floor seals one side of this otherwise open space (floors go out to the planking).
The only way to avoid the need for packings in a boat with stringers is to use notched frames, wich isn't really possible when they are steam bent.

The packings aren't steam bent, they are sawn to shape and beveled. Grain direction is irrelevant since they don't have a structural role.
Depending on where they go you install them either before planking, or before the frame/main frame goes in. Basically you fit them to the part that goes in first, glue them to said part and bevel the remaining faces for the parts that come next in situ.
 

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Because the frames are set over the stringers, the packings are pieces of wood filling the gap. Is this a carvel planked hull?
 
This sounds like a fairly ambitious new construction project @IwoodifIcould

For general reference, can you tell us a bit more about the design that you are building?
In addition to supplying extra info re the construction details, asd per Rumars' request above.

I think that Alan Pape designed the Cuttyhunk series of yachts which are substantial vessels - I hope that your project is a bit smaller.
 
This sounds like a fairly ambitious new construction project @IwoodifIcould

For general reference, can you tell us a bit more about the design that you are building?
In addition to supplying extra info re the construction details, asd per Rumars' request above.

I think that Alan Pape designed the Cuttyhunk series of yachts which are substantial vessels - I hope that your project is a bit smaller.

I think Rumars answered it ok. it is a 45 foot ketch. iroko frames, keel, mast support, iron ballast, deck mahogany ply. I am not building it yet.
 
It's difficult without knowing all the construction details, I would be more interested in what a "main frame" is. Anyway, he is telling you to glue in wooden spacers shaped to fill the space created by the stringers between frame and planking or/and "main frame" and frame. Without them you create a potential rot pocket, air and water cannot move there because the floor seals one side of this otherwise open space (floors go out to the planking).
The only way to avoid the need for packings in a boat with stringers is to use notched frames, wich isn't really possible when they are steam bent.

The packings aren't steam bent, they are sawn to shape and beveled. Grain direction is irrelevant since they don't have a structural role.
Depending on where they go you install them either before planking, or before the frame/main frame goes in. Basically you fit them to the part that goes in first, glue them to said part and bevel the remaining faces for the parts that come next in situ.

Thank you so much! the packings in other parts of the part are well drawn and dimensioned.
 
It seems the designer was trying to combine two different construction methods, cold molding and carvel.
Carvel construction generally uses frames without stringers, cold molding generally uses stringers without frames, (or some frames added inside the stringers after construction, as needed for bulkheads or localized stress of mast).
It appears that the "packing" is really just a "filler plank" that enables the hard reverse curve of the laminations to "lie fair", as to keep its concave shape, without the tendency to "go straight" between the lowest stringer and the keel rabbet.
Anyone experienced in cold molding knows that concave sections are harder to deal with than convex sections.
Whatever, the faying surface/interface between that part and the hull laminations must be sealed above and beyond reproach.
Should standing water get between them then as sure as the day is long rot will soon follow.
Also, in any design that uses stringers, the stringers should have a sloped upper surface that will not allow water to lie on top of them where they join the hull.
There are several ways to meet that need.
 
What kind of glass fiber cloth is used for wooden boats?
 
You can use many kinds depending on the scantlings, construction methods and resin used.
 
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