info/ideas chinese fishing boat junk styles

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by adamanderr, Apr 6, 2006.

  1. adamanderr
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    adamanderr Junior Member

    does anyone have any ideas or information about a smaller maybe 20-25 foot asian style junk? style boat. i figure it would be an easier style shape to make and fill for livability. thinking close to shore or lake..
    thanks
    adamanderr@hotmail.com
     
  2. vishnubaiju
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    vishnubaiju Junior Member

    Asian style 20-25 footer

    Do you mean 20-25 ft coastal wooden fishing boat ?
     
  3. Ari
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    Location: Port Dickson, Malaysia

    Ari Patience s/o Genius

    Asian wooden boat ?

    You want to built or you want to buy ? Why not built something bigger for live aboard ?Traditional Malay or Bugis boat are cheap to built in Indonesia and Malaysia.. 20 to 25 feet Asian boat is too small I think..they are called Sampan.Built something in the range of 40 feet..the cost of transporting it to your ne can be more expensive than the cost of the boat.Sail it back to your water..have the fitting done to your desired specs..voila ..what a live aboard you will have man..at a fraction of the europe boat cost.Have a look at this hyperlink, to get some ideas..

    http://www.jawasoft.com/merdeka/about.html
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Wellydeckhand

    Wellydeckhand Previous Member

    Attached Files:

  5. Wellydeckhand

    Wellydeckhand Previous Member

    Attached Files:

  6. Wellydeckhand

    Wellydeckhand Previous Member

    I dont get it Ari say Asian boat is sampan but I get chinese junk boat as sampan. Sampan seem to mean non sail junk.......................:)

    Wellydeckhand
     
  7. Ari
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    Location: Port Dickson, Malaysia

    Ari Patience s/o Genius

    Sampan..

    Walle, when adamander asked for something in the range of 24 footer..maybe I doesn't understand him well..a 24 er design back here in Malaysia for 'live aboard' is actually very small and cramp..normally only inshore fisherman used it..with a single small outboard engine..I had owned one before..Thats the reason I had asked him to consider something bigger..:) allowing some doubts on his ability to upkeep anything bigger than 40 feet ..base on my experience with western sailor who call to PD marina..I suggested him something in the range of 40er:) . I had love to suggest him 70er like Rainbow Dragon/ Naga Pelangi or >100er like the Si lolona..or mine..Kayu Manis(Cinamon)..but if he want to build it himself..he as a part time carpenter or boat builder..there is no way he will be able to build such of any of those boat..not even a seasoned boat builder in the whole of europe.. they are build from totally different technique from the western boat building principle:). But then he never reply wether he want to built or want to comissioned a builder or want to buy..maybe he is just asking ..for the sake of asking a question..I don't know..:)
    Anyway..those hyperlink provided by you are very helpful..of course I had seen it before..if those who are interested to own a bigger boat and don't mind having a wooden boat thats are built from real piece of plank and not plywood..at a fraction of the cost in europe ..they should have a looks on those boat offered..real nice..this what I meant when I told adamander to built one and sail it or transport it back to the Ne.:)
     
  8. Ari
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    Location: Port Dickson, Malaysia

    Ari Patience s/o Genius

    Those thumbnail are photos of Si Lolona and the Last one is of Kublai Khan. SiLolona is in Langkawi Island, Malaysia at the moment
     
  9. adamanderr
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    adamanderr Junior Member

    thanks for the replies

    wouldn't mind buying, what is the price range on such a thing.

    what is up with material choices, would there be a problem or advantage to usinjg the plywood with fiberglass outer style.
    thanks again
     
  10. SheetWise
    Joined: Jul 2004
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    Location: Phoenix

    SheetWise All Beach -- No Water.

    Michael Kasten seems to have a fondness for the junk rig. Check with him on designs.
     
  11. Wellydeckhand

    Wellydeckhand Previous Member

    See the Kasten Marine on Junk Rigs............ very interesting

    What About the Junk Rig...?

    Kasten Marine Design, Inc.

    Copyright 2001 - 2005 Michael Kasten
    Updated 21 May 2005



    Is the Junk Rig Suited to Modern Cruising...?

    The junk rig shares many of the virtues of the gaff rig. The junk rig or "Chinese lug rig" is easy to handle, very easy to reef, easy and inexpensive to build, easy to rig, has no complex hardware, requires no winches, is easy to maintain, involves very low rigging stresses, provides a low center of effort so requires less beam or depth of keel, and at least in my view, looks great!

    That is quite an impressive list of positive attributes... While the following is not intended to be a comprehensive guide to the junk rig, it is a brief introduction to a few of the advantages offered by the chinese lug, or junk rig. Due to its excellent qualities for blue water voyaging, I believe the junk rig has much to offer.


    Some Advantages Specific to the Junk Rig

    Reefing: The ease of reefing a junk rig is legendary. Perhaps it is best illustrated with a brief story about sailing one quite windy day off Port Townsend on Migrant, sister ship to Colvin's Gazelle. This was in 1979, and I was considering the junk rig for my own boat, then under construction. Naturally curious, I asked the skipper about reefing the junk rig. He had just passed around mugs of hot chocolate, so I expected a brief discourse on the subject. Instead, without saying anything he walked over to the main mast and with one hand released the main halyard just enough to let it slip over the belaying pin, paying out about half of it and belaying it again. The boat was reefed. He did not put down his mug of hot chocolate. He did not spill any.

    Suitability to Cruising Boats: Many hull forms will handle the junk rig very nicely. As we are now seeing, fully battened sails are the "state of the art" on high performance sailing craft, for example on the America's Cup contenders. Given proper design, there is no reason the junk rig cannot be adapted to performance oriented cruising boats. An excellent combination is also the use of a fairly traditional hull form with the junk rig. As with any rig, there must be correct balance, and sufficient sail area, with an efficient plan form given to the sails. In my view, there will ideally not be any "western" sails such as a jib, and the rig should approach that of a true ocean going Chinese junk.

    Suitability to Motor Sailors: A motor sailor can make excellent use of the junk rig. A motor sailor can be 100% sailing vessel, as well as being 100% capable under power. There are many other approaches as well, such as that taken by the Gulliver 46, the Greatheart 48 and the Greatheart 60 designs. These types have an emphasis on sail that is more on the order of around 60% to 70%. In other words, the sails are provided primarily for the purpose of auxiliary propulsion, rather than primary propulsion. The sails serve the function of being the "get-home" motive power in the case of engine failure. In addition, the sails provide extra boost while motoring when the wind favors. As a bonus, the sails and rig provide excellent roll dampening. For this purpose, the junk rig is ideal.

    Simplicity: With a schooner or ketch configuration arranged in true Chinese junk fashion, therefore not having a western jib, there would be just two junk sails, therefore just two halyards total. For a larger vessel, a small mizzen or small fore sail can be used, also ideally a junk type of sail.

    Ease of use: On any cruising vessel, be it a sail boat or a motor sailor, it seems particularly advantageous to have the ability to instantly reef the sails, or to lower them completely without any fooling around. Sail and battens collect neatly in the lazy jacks. Once down, you can go to the sail to throw a line around the battens if necessary.

    Flogging / Luffing: There is no sail flapping and flogging when passing through the eye of the wind, either while tacking or jibing.

    Safety: Individual "sheetlets" are lead to each batten, a full set of sheetlets on each side, so the sails are self tending. The sail shape can be controlled very effectively. This is quite a safe arrangement as well. The multiple sheets, one to each batten, make jibes very gentle, so there is no drama if someone inadvertently puts the helm too far over. This "soft jibe" effect is augmented by there being a fair sized portion of the sail forward of the mast, as a counter force. This makes the junk rig very forgiving for family sailing.

    Sail Stress: Having multiple battens, the sails can be made of somewhat lighter material. Sail "cut" is not usually regarded as being critical, and most often junk sails are built "flat" rather than being cambered.

    Appearance: In my view, the junk rig looks "right" on many vessels, especially so with a somewhat "traditional" hull form. Given the right match to the hull form underneath, in my eyes the junk rig is very handsome. This can be applied especially well to motor sailing types. For example, the junk rig would be a perfect companion to a vessel like the 50' trawler Renegade as we see here...


    Spars & Rigging

    Spars: Spars can be solid wood as is quite traditional. Alternately, as with the gaff rig, the junk rig can take excellent advantage of welded aluminum tube or pipe for spars. When painted properly the aluminum spars are nearly indistinguishable from traditional round wooden spars. Compared strictly on a strength to weight basis, aluminum spars are better by far. When compared on the basis of maintenance, the aluminum spars win again. In terms of longevity... aluminum is far and away the best choice. In terms of first cost (the cost to fabricate the rig), again aluminum wins hands down - all fittings being fully welded and therefore integrally a part of the spars.

    Battens: Many types of battens have been tried, varying from the obvious use of wood, to the use of ABS pipe, and then to the use of fiberglass rods or bars. Each material has an advantage. Fiberglass battens are a bit heavier and more costly, but they will usually outlast the other types by a substantial margin.

    Rigging: The junk rig is friendly to use. For example, just as with a traditional gaff rig, one will be handling soft lines rather than harsh stainless wire and winches.

    Proportion: The junk sail drawing shown at the top of this page is very generic, and is intended primarily as a schematic of a four batten junk (upper yard and boom not included in the batten count). In most applications, the sail's proportions would be stretched to be somewhat taller and less wide. In other words, the rig would ideally have a somewhat higher aspect ratio.


    A Few New Terms...

    A minor advantage of familiarity with the junk rig is being able to impress dock side wags by knowing all about lizards, sheetlets, euphroes, snotters, and bowsing tackles....!

    Sail shape is controlled by each of the individual sheets. Each "sheetlet" runs through a "euphroe" which acts as friction block to keep the tension set as intended. In the drawing above, I've made use of a simpler arrangement using a fiddle block and separate "lizard" eyes in order to allow the sail to self adjust when it is reefed.

    Once the sail is raised, if it is desired to tension the sail vertically, it is hauled downward by a "bowsing tackle." If it is desired to move the sail forward or aft, it can be done by controlling the "out haul" which in this case leads forward to the leading edge of the battens. The top yard can be controlled via a line called the "snotter" to move the spar forward or aft, or to snug it against the mast, as needed.


    A Junk Rig Testimonial...

    This letter was received from the current owner of Migrant, one of the vessels mentioned above.

    Subject: Migrant

    Dear Michael,

    It was nice to come across your piece [above] on the Junk Rig and immediately see Migrant named and another story about Dick Johnson told.

    I bought Migrant from Dick in 1991 after having sailed on her a number of times since meeting him in 1971 when he first sailed into Bellingham. In 1994, with the same sails that Dick Johnson had used to go to Australia, New Zealand, Pitcairn, Mexico, and back to Bellingham, I sailed Migrant from Bellingham once again, bound for Mexico.

    I spent a year and a half in Mexico before sailing onward to French Polynesia, Samoa, Tonga, Fiji, the Marshalls, Micronesia, down to the Solomons, Vanuatu, New Caledonia, and Australia. By then I had put four more years in the tropical sun on the same sail cloth, and it had become very fragile.

    On the way up the Barrier Reef, the top panel started developing tears. By the time I had crossed the top of Australia and gotten to Ashmore Reef, the top panel was in shreds and only the bolt rope around the perimeter was holding the sail and yard together, yet the sailing performance did not suffer in any noticeable way.

    By that time the sun damage in the lower panels was severe enough that a careless push with my hand would go right through the sail. Even in bad squalls, the rips did not propagate because of the low stress on the cloth.

    I continued onward through Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, and Thailand. I finally replaced the sails in July of 2000 when they became too disreputable looking, even for me...

    What other rigs exist where a rip in the sail is not of any great concern, or that you would be able to continue onward for that many miles using sails with cloth so old and fragile?

    William Servais
    Aboard the junk rigged schooner, Migrant



    In Conclusion

    There are many excellent resources for more information on the junk rig. Tom Colvin has written many good articles on the subject, as have Hasler and others. If this kind of thing is of interest, please inquire.
     

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  12. Wellydeckhand

    Wellydeckhand Previous Member

    2nd hand? your choice

    Here are some link to a 2nd hand builted and design junk cruiser sail at the below link:

    http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1357008/0
    http://www.boatquest.com/Colvin-Chinese-Junk/1/allmanufacturerboats.aspx


    If your're interested HongKong, Taiwan and Singapore still have people making it.:)

    But in Indonesia, we can arrange to make with the plan the dimension. I have 7 cargo junk motor........ each built for 90 ton capacity, wood construction, no engine and fitting for 350,000 juta meaning, approx US$35,000. But gonna have to check because of the scare of wood by the govt. logger law and the recent increased in rupiah value.

    The engine can use expired engine from Japan....... and use China made marine transmission.......... Alot of Indonesian understand the way of marinizing the truck engine.


    Best Luck

    Wellydeckhand
     

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  13. Wellydeckhand

    Wellydeckhand Previous Member

    The Chinese Fully Battened Lugsail.

    If you do not participate in regattas, but want an easy handled rig for safe cruising, you should value the Chinese Lug rig. Also called Junk Rig. The main advantages are: 1. Easy reefing. 2. Low Tec. 3. Cheap to build. 4. May be entirely home built. 5. Easy to repair everywhere. As it is so easy to reef, you may have a great working sail area. The rig may be made with stayed masts, or with unstayed masts. The latter being the most usual. The sail were used in many different designs in old China. The types that are adopted here in the west are represented mainly by 4 types.
    Type 1, represented by Tom Colvin.
    Type 2, represented by Hasler/Mc Leod. See the book "Practical Junk Rig".
    Type 3, represented by Derek Van Loan. See the book "The Chinese sailing Rig".
    Type 4, represented by Professor Vincent Reddish.

    The sails with fanned battens were usual in the South China Sea, in the Macao/Hong Kong area, but also as far west as Thailand. I think that fanned battens are the most logical choice for a sail with very low AR. It also looks best to my opinion. Sails, with a low Aspect Ratio of 1.5 like this, is ideal for reaching and running, and therefore for working with the monsoons. Used only for reaching and running it is not necessary with camber in the sail. For working upwind, it is better to use greater Aspect ratio, and some camber. Aspect ratio is defined as height of the sail^2/Area of the sail. Here in the West people, for a long time, believed that all Chinese sails should be flat, and that they generated lift in another mysterious way than other sails. I don’t understand why, because I have seen old pictures of Chinese sails that are obviously not flat. Vincent Reddish was the first person I know of, that was talking about camber in the panels. That inspired others to experiment further.
    Portuguese Lorcas with cambered panels.
    Vietnamese sampan with sail made of palm leaves.

    Here the problem is not too little, rather too much camber. The Hasler/Mc Leod rig, as described in their book, is flat. The flat sails gave the Chinese Lug an unfair reputation of being slow to windward. However, all other recommendations in the book are sound, and probably the best place to seek basic knowledge about the modern Chinese Lug. After too many years of guessing, dominated by people who believed that some sort of turbulence produced lift in the Chinese lug, Junk Rig Association decided to pay for some research at the Exeter University. The result proved that there was no mystery about the Chinese lug. It had to have camber to be effective upwind, just like other sails. It is not important how the camber is created, as long as it is practical, safe and don’t make it more difficult to reef. Two methods have shown good results, and have been well tested. 1. Camber built in the sail by means of hinges in the battens.

    The camber will develop in the lightest of wind, but will not increase in stronger wind if the battens are stiff enough. My boat has one hinge in the middle of the battens, which gives ca. 6.5% camber. With this sail I can tack trough 90 deg. With flat sail, the tacking angle was 110 deg. If you have a heavy boat, and need more camber to get maximum power, you should use two hinges in each batten, but not to near the mast. If they are to near the mast, they will have a tendency to flip the wrong way. This is dependent of how much sail you have in front of the mast. With the use of hinged battens, the sail can be made flat. Only some curvature along the boom is necessary. This means that the method may also be used to build camber into existing flat sails. That was what I did. In China it was usual to have bundles of bamboo aboard as spare parts, and for using as additional stiffening of the sail in stronger wind.

    Malena with hinged battens.
    My boat Iris with hinged battens.


    Here with one hinge in the middle of each batten, with about 6.5% camber. Earlier I had two hinges. One at 30% from the luff, and one at 50% from the luff. That worked OK for all but the upper batten. The upper batten had a tendency to get an S-form around the mast when the wind came from the port side. However, with only one hinge at 50% from the luff, it is no problem.



    Beatrice, a heavy Swedish motor sailor with hinged battens. She has one hinge in the upper battens, and two in the lower battens. Camber is about 8%.

    Camber sewn into each panel, combined with stiff battens, is the other well tested method. In the olden days, the canvas was stretchy, so it was hardly necessary to sew in camber in the panels! However the Chinese prestretched it by means of sand before it was hoisted. Modern canvas is a lot less stretchy, and we have to sew in camber. With this method, you may choose more freely the point of maximum camber, and it is probably the best method to choose, when starting from scratch.

    Malena with cambered panels.
    Johanna with cambered panels.

    Regarding the tacking angle, it is important to remember that it is not dependent only of the sail, but just as much of the design of the boat and the keel. My boat has a rather blunt bow and a keel on the smaller side. Her tacking angle wasn’t any better with the original Bermuda rig.

    Camber in panels for Junk Rig Sails.



    L = Length of batten.
    D = Height of panel.
    f = Additional canvas for creating camber.
    c = Camber in % of L.

    Control lines used in the modern Chinese lug.

    Comments:

    1. Sheet.
    * On bigger boats it may be best to have an upper, and a lower sheet. This will give better control over twist.
    2. Halyard.
    * If you use unstayed mast, it is important that the compression force in the mast is kept low. On a 26sq.m. sail, I use a 4 to 1 purchase.
    3. Lazy Jack.
    * On a small boat, I will recommend a running system that is possible to adjust from the cockpit.
    4. Yard parrel.
    * This is a rope going from the halyard point on the yard, around the mast, back to the yard, via a block, and to the deck.
    * This parrel will prevent the yard from swinging around in waves, especially when the sail is reefed.
    5. Boom sling.
    * This is two ropes going down from the top of the mast, on each side of the sail, and fastened to the boom. It works together with the lazy jack, catching the bundle of the sail when you are reefing. In this way it is easy to swing the sail fore and aft.
    * Hasler/McLeod used only one rope on the outside of the sail, under the boom, and fastened around the mast.
    6. Throat parrel.
    * This parrel is working together with the yard parrel. It is going from the fore end of the yard, around the mast, back to the fore end of the yard, via a block to the deck.
    7. Batten parrels.
    * This are ropes going from the fore end of each batten and the boom, around the mast, and ends at the battens further aft. The distance between the fastening points must be big enough to allow the sail to swing forward the desired distance. If the batten parrels are too short, they will more easily catch when running up and down the mast.
    * Hasler/McLeod did not use batten parrel on the boom.
    8. Back haul/Down haul for the boom.
    9. May be combined with a kicking strap.
    10. Hong Kong parrels.
    * These are ropes used to prevent battens from "falling" forward, and create creases in the sail.

    Some do not use batten parrels at all, but have a throat/luff parrel that comprises all battens, often divided in an upper, and a lower one. When the boat is tacking, the sail is hauled as far aft as possible, and when running, the sail is slacked off, so a greater portion of the sail is forward of the mast.

    by http://www.winterthun.net/victor/conversion.php
     

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  14. Wellydeckhand

    Wellydeckhand Previous Member


  15. Wellydeckhand

    Wellydeckhand Previous Member

    A few nice stock plans from link http://www.macnaughtongroup.com/coin.htm

    e Coin Collection

    This series brings together a unique combination of traditional and modern elements and produces a range of boats optimized for offshore safety and comfort, ease of handling, excellent accommodations, and high performance of the type that is valuable to cruising people. Sheathed Strip construction is standard.

    The distinguishing characteristics of the series are:

    1.) Modern heavy-displacement hull designs of the full-keel type, for best comfort at sea, good steering characteristics under all conditions, and consistently high speed, especially in very light and very heavy air and on long passages.

    2.) Chinese lug rig for full sail-handling capability (raising, lowering, reefing, unreefing, and sheet handling) from the helm, without touching the sail, optimum sail area under varying conditions without changing sails, consistently high performance, especially on passage, and low-tech simplicity and reliability.

    3.) Flush deck design for maximum interior volume, ease of interior customization, versatile and roomy deck space, strength, and simplicity.

    4.) Steering and sail handling from on deck or from the shelter of the enclosed steering station.

    The boats are sized according to the number of people they are meant to accommodate. They are meant to treat their people very well indeed. They have enormous deck space for best enjoyment of good weather, generous interior accommodations for the cost of the vessel, and maximum comfort and safety when conditions deteriorate. They are very large for their length due to the flush deck. For instance the 30 foot Sovereign has as much room as a 36 to 40 foot vessel.

    The combination of the easily handled rig, the wind vane and the enclosed steering station is virtually unavailable elsewhere. We feel they revolutionize the experience of long-term cruising and voyaging, by eliminating much of the physical discomfort and many of the common dangers.

    It is very rare to find a line of live aboard voyaging yachts designed by a designer with as much live aboard experience as we have. Indeed these were designed while living aboard and cruising. Further because of our great affection for this particular series of designs we have gone back year after year adding details to the plans and refining elements as suggested by our own thoughts and experience and that of owners of the vessels. For us they continue to represent our concept of near ultimate voyaging yachts.

    Stock Plans List / Farthing 15 / Stock Plans Order Form

    :):):) Nice and affordable design and lot's backup...............

    wellydeckhand
     
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