which one goes on first.

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Tungsten, Jun 3, 2012.

  1. Tungsten
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    Tungsten Senior Member

    yes i have built before from ply.thought i'd try my hand at foam for kicks and see what its all about.
     
  2. Tungsten
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    Tungsten Senior Member

    you asked me a question,i replied the best i could.

    this is your response??

    do me a favour and please block out my posts,or at least quit responding to them as your posts have really nothing constuctive in them.

    thanks,
     
  3. Tungsten
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    Tungsten Senior Member

    crimped; had to look that one up.

    thanks Herman,my tests say the same thing the WR does stand up to abuse much better then the biax.
     
  4. Herman
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    Herman Senior Member

    Crimped: the fiber makes bends, is not straight. Multiaxials also are sometimes referred to as "non crimped fabrics". As you looked it up, it must make sense now.

    The stiffness is better of a NCF, but impact strength is slightly lower, and as a top layer you can "kick" a fiber out.
     
  5. OFFSHORE GINGER
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    OFFSHORE GINGER Junior Member

    Ha Ha Ha Ha , good for you because you truly are not the first person with with the same response on mutable forums in the past.................:cool::cool:
     
  6. sabahcat
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    sabahcat Senior Member

    Fair enough but for most, what foam is all about is saving weight and that's why we pay a premium for it.

    The addition of non performance fabrics (woven rovings) has nothing to do with weight saving and I would suggest that the proposed laminates described will make the panel considerably heavier than the cheaper ply alternative.
     
  7. Tungsten
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    Tungsten Senior Member

    my test pieces come in at 550 grams 2^ft thats 2 12 oz one side and the same on the other with the 18 oz WR added.3/8 baltic birch ply naked comes in at 600 g 2^ft.the 18oz WR adds about 120g 2^ft my floor is about 38 2^ft =about 10 lbs added.
    as i'm trying to be as light as i can what else do you suggest i use?
    if i did one more 12oz thats 80gx38=6.7lbs so 3.3 pound savings.
    my tests show that the WR stands up very well to impacts it will stop a 4' chunk of rebar slammed down on end as hard as i can and thats just by it self on the foam nevermind 2 layers of 12 oz undernieth.
     
  8. sabahcat
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    sabahcat Senior Member

    If my calcs are correct 6mm meranti like you have in the sides weighs in at 25lb a sheet
    32square feet to an 8x4 sheet
    = 353 grams/ft2


    Why you feel so much glass is required for a flat water boat I have no idea
    and why you feel it needs to take a belt with rebar is beyond me.

    The flattie I described earlier that was 6mm meranti was my daily transport and fishing platform for the cat I had at the time.
    It was used in the ocean not a calm river.
    At no stage did anyone attack it with rebar.
    I did nudge it up on rocks and reef and walk straight out over the front so as to keep the feet dry and there was no damage worth worrying about and it had a layer of 5oz cloth with strategic additions to wear areas.
     
  9. kerosene
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    kerosene Senior Member

    you guys need thicker skins. Not laminates but on your web typing fingers.

    I really failed to see how tunnels was being out of line. Its an internet forum. You don't always like some of the (free) commentary/advise. If you don't appreciate it let it fly out of the other ear.
     

  10. Tungsten
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    Tungsten Senior Member

    my description of calm river may be different then what you think.Building a hull from 1/4" for this river would not be adviseable.3/8 in the min.with glass to protect from the odd bump and scuff.so my weight comparison is based from this.
    The ability to absorb impacts is why i'm trying foam.My rebar test was done just to compare glass weights since i have no exsperence with what works best.
    I'll ask again.What do you recommend i use instead of the WR?
     
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