Attacking deck

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by phil32, Jun 28, 2011.

  1. phil32
    Joined: Jun 2011
    Posts: 46
    Likes: 3, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 68
    Location: Indiana

    phil32 Junior Member

    Restoring this 11' tender for my daughter. After trying to remove the deck with no luck we cut the floor out to remove the water soaked foam. Now
    I am looking for the best way to attach the plywood and reglass the floor.I have made 4 webs 3/4" wide to attach to the hull with PL5200 and will glass them in. Anyone have a better idea? Also any suggestions on best way to repair this mess previous owner tried to repair.

    Thanks, any help would be greatly appreciated
    Phil
     

    Attached Files:

  2. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    On my small fishing boat, after removing the old and digging out the foam, I just put the new ply on top of the old deck, using the old deck as "flanges", more or less. I glued and screwed it down, covered it with chopped strand mat and gelcoat, which left enough texture for non skid and "webbed" it with a little paint splattered out of a paint brush to blend it all together and look good. It raised the deck 1/2" and left a gutter around the edges which was excellent for draining water back to the bilge pump.
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    A 3/4" flange is a mighty small amount of bonding area for the new deck and it appears you've cut through some stringers there as well. Make sure it's well tabbed, to the hull shell, or it'll break out.
     
  4. phil32
    Joined: Jun 2011
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    Location: Indiana

    phil32 Junior Member

    Par,
    Once again thank you for your guidence. I have enclosed a photo of some webs i fashioned to tab to the hull for some strength and attach the deck to. My question is given your concern would it be better to run and tab in a long stringer down the keel and then use the web across.
    Again thank you for your help
    Phil
     

    Attached Files:

  5. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    If well supported and tabbed, a piece of 1/4" plywood would do fine. A couple of athwartship braces as it appears you've made, well tabbed to the hull shell will prevent flexing of the sole. The plywood tabbing should be a minimum of 4" on each side of the seam. Bigger is always better with tabbing and I'd recommend at least 2 layers of biax tape for the tabbing. Weight is also a consideration so don't go crazy with 3/4" plywood and 2x4's.
     
  6. phil32
    Joined: Jun 2011
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    Location: Indiana

    phil32 Junior Member

    Par.
    Thanks for the athwartship reference, it helps when you know the terms.
     
  7. phil32
    Joined: Jun 2011
    Posts: 46
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    Location: Indiana

    phil32 Junior Member

    Attaching plywood to the deck

    Par,
    Thanks to your guidence I have completed the tabbing and am ready to move to attaching the plywood on the deck. We have a local fiberglass mfg and they supplied me with some around 32oz woven glass 60" wide. There is enough to do 2+ layers that may be an over kill. Would you kindly give me a suggestion as how is the best way to attach the plywood to the existing fiberglass. I can glue and screw to the new wood but dont know the best way to attach to what is left from the demo. I have 2 1/2 " on each side and 13" in the stern and 9' in the bow of existing fiberglass.
    Best regards
    Phil
     

    Attached Files:

  8. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Sweet God, 32 ounce roving? Who told you to get that stuff?
     

  9. phil32
    Joined: Jun 2011
    Posts: 46
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    Location: Indiana

    phil32 Junior Member

    thats what they suggested for the strength
     
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