What Finish for Wood on Boat

I'm ready to finish the wood on a 19' downeast boat I'm building. So what are my options. I want good UV protection, and I don't want to keep refinishing the wood on the boat every other year. Should I cover the wood with epoxy and than an automotive clear, or should I get a clear polyester gel coat [with UV inhibitors] and than clear it with automotive clear coat. I know the epoxy will hold up to the weather but I'm worried about the UV damage, that's why I'm thinking about the polyester. I can't seem to find any clear vinylester with UV protection. What would be my best option...

Joe D

 

epoxy clear for a stable foundation, then spar varnish for UV protection and mil thickness, then optional 2 part lpu clear with UV protectors (most don't have this due to the extreme cost of clear UV protectors). there are exception.

paul
progressive epoxy polymers

 

Epoxy makes no sense. It's used on stripper canoes as a glassing resin but shouldn't be considered a basis for clear coating. Sounds like you are looking for a two-part polyurethane "varnish" or clear-coat system. This would go over bare wood and would offer several years of protection. Harder to refinish than regular varnish and harder to apply for most folks.
I personally feel that regular varnish is the best choice all around but to each his own.

 

Pjitty,

You will not find your answer here because it depends on so many factors.

I will never again epoxy coat and then try to preserve it from UV?

Next time I will coat with Sikens and recoat every year but never sand again.

Good luck!

 

There is no such thing as a low maintenance, clear finish on wood, even if it's encapsulated with epoxy or not.

Some finishes are better then others and the polyurethanes offer the most protection and durability, but at a cost in both product and negligence. By this I mean if you wait too long, before getting after this coating, hoping that you'll save some touch up effort, you could end up having to remove all of it and starting over. Simply put the two part polyurethanes do offer good resistance and protection, but they also are harder to repair (if at all) when dinged or damaged, particularly is neglected.

Lastly forget about gel coat or vinylester, they have absolutely no business on wood, if you expect it to last. If you don't want to refinish every other year, then you need to paint the surface. A high quality two part polyurethane, like Bristol Finish, might let you have 3 years between refinishing, in your area of the country, but this also assumes the boat will be kept, clean, dry, preferably covered and most importantly, repaired when necessary (dings, nicks, etc.)

 

Thanks for the replies. I know theirs no free lunch when it comes to no maintainence for boats. Just to give a little back ground on myself, I'm a cabinet maker/woodworker by trade, and I've painted more than a few cars over the years, so I'm no stranger to applying finishes. I'm just looking for the most efficient and lasting finish for my project. It's getting down to the end of a long road and I don't want to be scraping varnish this time next year. Again Thanks for the replies...

Joe D

 

I have been having decent results using Behr Premium cedar toned clear wood finish made for decks and fences. You will when reading see a lot of people have trouble with it sticking to PT pine decking. I have found it sticks well on mahogany, non treated pine and some teak. Especially on vertical wood.
Compared to varnish this stuff is much easier. It wont give you a glossy look. It will give you a smooth brownish red like smooth coat which shows all the grain.

My transom and rear doors it has held up facing the morning sun for 3 year and is still looking good. I spilled some on a small area of the teak deck and left it for a test and it still is on the wood. I used it on the teak swim platform and it has stayed on the wood.

Previously using spar varnish I could get at most 2 years before it all started shedding, peeled, turned grey.

It is a little trick to use, just brush on a smooth coat and dont work it too much. It goes on milky brown-blue and dries clear. I found if you get little rubber dust like balls you need to start with a clean brush and wash the wood with water first, then let wood dry. One piece that it was doing this, after it got dry and slightly sticky, I rubbed it down with my hand and it smoothed out. So I dont know what it does sometimes. Odd stuff. If it stays slightly tacky after drying then you may have coated it too thickly and the tackiness will go away with time, water and perhaps a small amount of soap with a light scrunge.

it is 501 natural cedar and here is a screenshot of the old can.

 

I started using a NZ product a while back- Uroxys marine clearcoat - with good results. It is is single pack, moisture curing, easy to apply 3 coats per day no problem, hard wearing and excellent multi season UV resistance. Have a look at http://www.uroxsys.co.nz/marine.htm . I believe Awlgrip will be bringing this formulation out in the US soon.

We have sprayed this in 99% humidity and 8 degrees C (boat was under cover) and the gloss was amazing. Hard to sand overnight too.

They have their own primers but it can also be applied over everdure/epoxy

regards,

AD

 

Hi Andrew

Have you applied this over epoxy yet ? Would this be a good protection for an epoxy hull ?

 

I haven't applied it over neat epoxy yet but would have no hesitation in doing so. We generally apply it over multiple coats of everdure without issue. The TDS allows for application over epoxy/glass/carbon substrate as long as it is blush free and prepped.

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Uroxsys Marine Clearcoat prices?
I bet it is expensive ++.
Suitable for those with large bank accounts and those who pay others to paint.

 

from my experience, moisture cured urethanes (MCU) generally have voc levels too high for sale in the US.The one I sell is aluminum filled and classified as a metalic coating, which has higher voc acceptable levels than other coatings.

paul
progressive epoxy polymers inc

 

When I read the description it sounds just like Coelan polyurethane clear coat. And that is very pricey and will last maybe 10 years.

http://coelan-boat.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coelan_Marine_Coatings


http://coelan-boat.com/reviews
After 7.5 years only 2 passed their test

 

re- price, we pay around $80 AUD per litre delivered. The savings on traditional varnish after one season more than cover the cost.

You can get a really good finish straight off the brush or roll/tip to keep fumes down. It tacks off quickly so reduces dust ingress into the finish.

The tech support if fantastic.

I have no affilliation with the company - just a very satisfied customer.

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