Trailable Electric Catamaran

We all will agree that I have to work on the looks of the boat, it looks at present like an ugly duck. But technical, I think most of the problems I have under the knee.
Where have I gone wrong? I suspect that the propellors maybe not completely under water and I have to modify that part and come up with a better solution. Only after I have solved that problem I will worry about the rudders, but with 2 motors, steering could be done by manupulation the speed of the motors. However if one motor fails at sea, I need a rudder.

The 60 cm diameter and 6 meter long double cylinders should give me some 3000kg before the cylinders are under water. I am not planning to go more than 1200 kg all in all in total included weight of 4 people. Also the cylinders will have many dividers to safeguard safety. The lowering and lifting of the cabin will be done, either by 2 reduction boxes with motors which pulls a 360 degree loop cable up and down . (or by manual winch).

The batteries are located in the cylinders to keep the gravity point as low as possible. After the cabin is lowered, a 2 inch stainless steel bolt is screwed securely at both ends of the cabin. This can only be done when the boat is offloaded in the water. The cylinders all have small manholes to enable to mount all bolts for the stainless steel pipes.

The front part of the cabin has some space (F) to enable to put the bolt into place.
I have to visualise how difficult that will be, but I think it is manageble.

There will be only 2 electric cables a plus 48 Volt and a minus 48 Volt and the controls will be done with a CAN bus and radiotransmitters. The same way I have my very succesfull electronic showjumping timers configured. (32 bit, good enough) Each electrical item will have a radiotransmitter/receiver to let it switch off or on. The cost for cabling is substantial more than those inexpensive microcomputers with radiotransmitters and receivers. I will save considerable headaches with cabling the boat with only a plus and minus. The central control is also simple and easy to add or to delete or modify an electrical appliance

The lights will be as much as possible done with LED's. The 2 motors will be 2 x 6 KW, should I not be able to get the 4 Kw motors/generators.

A small sail will help me out until the batteries have become lighter and more powerfull. Also solar panels, windenergy is complementing the charging of the batteries.

Looking in the future, within 5 years,electric boats, cars will be a preferetial item and in the meantime I have to do it with some heavy lead acid batteries

1) A,B,D,E re special stainless steel hinges.
2) C is the central hinge which will be after lowering of the Cabin bolted onto the keel of the Cabin.
3) G is the studd which will be moving up and down in the guide
4) I is the pivot point of the 2 x 3 inch bars to the cylinders.
5) J are the manholes in the cylinders to enable to mount the stainless steel wings
6) K are the 2 hatches for the ancers
7) L is the guide which makes sure that studd G keeps the boat stable when the Cabin is lowered or lifted.

Where have I gone wrong?

BertKu