Layup schedule

Discussion in 'Powerboats' started by grady, May 12, 2007.

  1. grady
    Joined: Oct 2006
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    Location: Scituate, Ma

    grady Novice

    This thread follows up on my engine mounts and stingers posts.


    Hey there. Well most of the grinding has been completed. And I'm trying to find the stock that I will need to start the rebuild.
    First I need some well dryed fir stock for the stringers and bearers, then I need glass cloth and resins ,thiners etc. etc. etc.

    But while I was gathering these items, I thought I would start a thread about layup schedules. You guys all know a lot more about this topic than do I. So what do you think about cloth weight and epoxys and the like.

    I'll be tabing in some new stringers and engine bearers as well as adding some beef to the bottom.

    Advice needed


    Thanks

    Grady
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2007
  2. RIVERKING
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    Location: ASSONET MA

    RIVERKING Junior Member

    I made a mistake dude.I Am under this name oops! sorry

    Ah to fiberglass in humid weather grind grin and bear it.
     
  3. RIVERKING
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    Location: ASSONET MA

    RIVERKING Junior Member

    Show some pictures of that inside hull after you've ground away whatever was there. What resins are you using? Slow fast medium. Know any friends fron south of the border ( heck that could be S Carolina by now) who do boats?
     
  4. grady
    Joined: Oct 2006
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    Location: Scituate, Ma

    grady Novice

    Hey Riverking, did you see my pics in my engine mounts and stringers thread.

    I'll be posting some more on sunday eve. It won't be till then that I'm completely done grinding. I can't tell how much I am looking forward to that.


    See ya soon.



    Grady
     
  5. marshmat
    Joined: Apr 2005
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    Location: Ontario

    marshmat Senior Member

    Grady,
    I can't suggest an exact layup schedule at this point, of course... but what I will suggest is that you go easy on the crappy CSM (chop-strand mat) and instead spend the extra few dollars for flexible, woven fibreglass cloths of around 10 oz (230 gsm). I'd sooner see you use two layers of this stuff than one layer of 20 oz roving or mat. It'll take a bit longer to do, but it'll conform to the tight corners a lot better and will be easier to lay up without air bubbles or excess resin. As for the resin itself, a good marine epoxy is the way to go (unless of course you loved the stringer replacement so much that you want to do it again ;) ).
     
  6. grady
    Joined: Oct 2006
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    Location: Scituate, Ma

    grady Novice

    Hey Matt, Some of the points I'm pondering are;

    Should the new stock be angle cut to follow the contour of the hull bottom?
    or
    should I use some kind of thicken epoxy puddy to fill the void?

    I question this step because I have heard mention of hard spots and the need to avoid them.

    What method use be use to hold stringers in place while the glass work is being completed?

    Is the use of mechnical fastners something that should be avoided.?

    also when do I start the large flat surfaces after the tabbing? all at the same time?


    thanks

    Grady
     

  7. grady
    Joined: Oct 2006
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    Location: Scituate, Ma

    grady Novice

    Hey Guy's

    Is Epoxy - Epoxy? Are there big differences between brands? Does application
    matter? Starting my shopping list and not sure if I should just get the best price or stick wiyh the big name brands.


    Grady
     
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