Weed eater engine conversion

Discussion in 'DIY Marinizing' started by Ward, Jun 2, 2003.

  1. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    Glad you're making it out. Keep the updates and pics coming!

    Erich
     
  2. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    Anyone working on anything interesting?

    I'm working on a dyno project to test the power output of my little engines. I'm waiting on some parts right now.





    Erich
     
  3. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    hoytedow Wood Butcher

    That's cool. Keep us posted.
     
  4. scamp8
    Joined: Mar 2014
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    Location: Kansas

    scamp8 Junior Member

    Hi, in new here been reading this post for a few days now, looking to build a weed eater motor for my 2 man boat, i bought a 28cc Husqvarna 128c which has a clutch, plan on using a 2.5-1 gear reduction off a grinder, question i have is will i need to remove the clutch or will it work fine with a gear reduction paired with it? Thanks
     
  5. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    There is no way to say for sure, but it sounds like a very good set up. Put it together and take it on a test run, then tell us how it did!

    Erich
     
  6. scamp8
    Joined: Mar 2014
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    Location: Kansas

    scamp8 Junior Member

    Thanks Erich, hope to have it going soon, I'll be sure to post how it does, anyone know what is an avg speed i could expect out of it? its going on a 8ft bass hunter scamp. Hoping for 5mph range, be using a little prop off an old silvertrol trolling motor
     
  7. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    It really depends on your hull, but 5 mph is do able. I get about that out of my motor and I know I'm bogging it down. The prop selection is where you will fine tune your performance. If the silvertrol prop is too large, you'll have to try some others until you match the power output of your motor.

    Erich
     
  8. scamp8
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    Location: Kansas

    scamp8 Junior Member

    Ok, thanks
     
  9. ben2go
    Joined: Jul 2008
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    Location: Upstate, South Carolina,USA

    ben2go Boat Builder Wanna Be

    You will need to lock the clutch so it doesn't slip.If it slips,it will burn up and possibly melt the housing and catch it on fire.
     
  10. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    In the end, he may need to lock the clutch, but there's no sense in doing that before he tests it. Just don't run it until it gets blazing hot and see how it does.

    Erich
     
  11. scamp8
    Joined: Mar 2014
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    Location: Kansas

    scamp8 Junior Member

    Thanks I'll keep that in mind, how do you lock them if i do need to?
     
  12. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    I built a replacement for my clutch that has two pins that connect to the clutch drum, but someone posted a comment on one of my videos that is a much better solution.

    What you do is put two welds on the inside of your clutch drum so that the clutch jambs against them. If you don't have a welder, you could go to a muffler shop and pay them $10 or something to have them put two small tack welds. It would literally take 2 minutes start to finish. Explaining what you want will take the most time.

    Erich
     
  13. scamp8
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    Location: Kansas

    scamp8 Junior Member

    Ok thanks, I'm a welder so that won't be a problem, I'll go ahead and try it before i weld it
     
  14. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    Well there you go! Post up your results. I like I said, I haven't done the tack weld method yet, but it sounds like the perfect choice *if* you do have clutch slip.

    Erich
     

  15. scamp8
    Joined: Mar 2014
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    Location: Kansas

    scamp8 Junior Member

    I'll let you guys know how it goes, thanks for the info,
     
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