Weed eater engine conversion

Discussion in 'DIY Marinizing' started by Ward, Jun 2, 2003.

  1. buttales
    Joined: Aug 2012
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    Location: los angeles

    buttales Junior Member

    yeah, I've heard of it.... something like phase separation put the water in shake it up and decant the water and alcohol out and ad back toluene. how I do mine is buy fresh gas every time I run it, then dump the gas out and start it up till it runs out. I don't use fuel stabilizer and just put the dumped fuel in my car gas tank
     
  2. moyak
    Joined: Aug 2013
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    Location: pierreville,QC

    moyak New Member

    Am new on this very interesting forum,and I come already with a question,you see I have just found you...........Am in the process of building a weed wacker mud motor out of a (30 to 40cc) straight shaft I would likr to know how to put the prop on the shaft that is already spliced ??? Any advices or pics are appreciated.
    I have seen Ercich videos on youtube and the only thing I could'nt understand was about the T10 prop from young's...........Hey Erich I also ran a Marshrat and found that little hunting boat a sweet........

    Thanks in helping me
    (Sorry for my English,am from Qu├ębec)
     
  3. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    Moyak,

    Can you post some photos with your question?

    Glad you like the Marsh rat!

    Erich
     
  4. moyak
    Joined: Aug 2013
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    moyak New Member

    Tomorow I'll post some pics ,I'll shopping for one 30 cc and over ,maybe you can tell wich to look for?????

    Thanks in answering!
     
  5. wildwatson
    Joined: Aug 2013
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    Location: graham tx

    wildwatson Junior Member

    i'm working on the same problem.it seems just about all the straight shaft weedeaters have the same angeled head.the edger attachment has a curved shaft to put the head at 90degree.the echo might be a 90.not sure.the short shaft which has the bearings in the right place can be had for around 22.00 ryobi edger attachment parts.i'm building a small boat for a child and going with the octura or prather surface props.
     
  6. wildwatson
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    Location: graham tx

    wildwatson Junior Member

  7. wildwatson
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    Location: graham tx

    wildwatson Junior Member

  8. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    They are cheap, but they need a huge hub...

    Erich
     
  9. wildwatson
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    Location: graham tx

    wildwatson Junior Member

  10. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    I think you misunderstood the point I was trying to make. Look at how large the shaft hole is on that prop. They are designed to be spun by a much larger engine, so they use larger shafts.

    My Ryobi uses a 1/4" shaft. That prop needs a tapered shaft with a key that is probably 5/8" dia, if not larger.

    EDIT:

    It looks like they do make a prop that is useful for these kinds of builds. AWESOME! http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROPELLER-4...ar&vxp=mtr&hash=item19db4c1179#ht_1213wt_1124

    Erich
     
  11. wildwatson
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    Location: graham tx

    wildwatson Junior Member

    i've been digging for a week trying to figure out how to get around the weird angle on the head.just go with a coupling nut,come out the other side with a reduced stud.some of the guys are threading the prop.in the rc world they use a drive dog where you grind a flat spot on the shaft and tighten the allen screw.to get the weed eater head to a 90 degree you will need to get a edger tube which has the bearings in the right spot for the bend.they are about 20 bucks from sears.for a prop just go with the octura 270 or 280.with the direct drive anything bigger will smoke the clutch. http://www.funrcboats.com/prop_chart1.htm
     
  12. wildwatson
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    Location: graham tx

    wildwatson Junior Member

    i think it would be cheaper to run twin ryobi (60cc)instead of rigging a pocket bike motor(100cc w/elec start)i can pick up a walmart ryobi for 15 bucks at a yard sale.i think putting a coupling nut and extending the prop shaft away from the gear drive would let you keep the gear head out of the water and have less drag.
     
  13. Erich_870
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Juneau, Alaska

    Erich_870 Junior Member

    I wish I could find weed whackers that cheap up here!

    How far past the gear head are you thinking of extending it? If you get too long it's going to get really unstable.

    You might as well not use the gear head and just build a long tail unless your prop of choice has to rotate opposite the motor.

    Erich
     
  14. wildwatson
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    Location: graham tx

    wildwatson Junior Member


  15. wildwatson
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    Location: graham tx

    wildwatson Junior Member

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