Weed eater engine conversion

Discussion in 'DIY Marinizing' started by Ward, Jun 2, 2003.

  1. American_Yankee
    Joined: Apr 2012
    Posts: 44
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    Location: Middle Tennessee

    American_Yankee Junior Member

    That is it! Mine is white and red, which indicates there are some differences, but they are minor. I had pics of mine on one of my computers, and thought it was this one. If I can find it I'll attach a pic.

    I was hoping to possibly adapt some sort of reduction gear utilizing those mounting holes around the crank. The crank output shaft appears to be around 3/4"... though I have not put a micrometer on it yet.

    Thanks for the encouraging words.
     

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  2. 48cc Sit On Top
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: UK

    48cc Sit On Top Junior Member

    Just over half way though building it.

    My shaft has spline`s either end of it, so without the splined gear on the prop end it would get dragged out by the water if I released the throttle and continued moving forward. So I came up with this idea.

    I used the gearbox housing from the strimmer. It was an angled one though and I wanted a straight shaft one. So I ground it down until I had access to the bits I wanted.

    I used nylon washers / bush`s as they are self-lubricating. The ones I got were 1”, so I put them on a bolt with a nut and put them in the chuck of my drill. I then ran the drill whilst holding a file against the washer until it was the size required. I used this same idea for the plate washers.

    I also put a plate washer on the outside (which was fixed the housing) and another nylon washer before the prop, so the trust would be taken by the tube not the drive shaft. I used a youngs T-10 propeller, if I had kept the gearbox and altered my design then I would have needed to use the T-8 instead.

    I have a fiberglass pole to connect to aluminum angle for the rudder control, this will work by pushing and pulling. I have used a brake from a bike as the throttle lever.

    The frame is made from aluminum and bits from an old garage door. My engine is held up by a van door lock and a bike brake lever for the release. So if I need to suddenly lift my prop out of the water for rocks, I pull the leaver and the engine drops which lifts the prop out of the water because of the hinge fixing in the middle.

    The grey putty you can see is to stop the nuts from working loose, this is in addition of the locktite and the locking nuts. Belt and braces, I don’t want to have to strip the engine to get out any water.

    Although its not quite finished, I am going out in it today so I will post again later.

    Also… I do not normally work with metal, so before anyone else say`s something about it I know it makes Susan Boyle look pritty.
     

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  3. American_Yankee
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: Middle Tennessee

    American_Yankee Junior Member

    Thanks for the post and pics "48cc Sit On Top". Looking forward to a performance report, and more pics... maybe even a video of it doing it's thing! Hope it does great for you. Please keep us posted. Thanks.
     
  4. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Honda GX35NTSA 4 Stroke Straight Shaft Build

    Hi Guys,

    Been busy ordering parts and most of them are on the way and should start the build late next week.

    I ordered the following so far:

    Honda GX35NTSA 4 Stroke Engine Note: This is the standard model that is used for weedeaters and has a different tank configuration than the model GX35NTT3 which is used for Tiller installations. This unit comes with a clutch but not the clutch bell and associated drive parts.

    22260-VL3-D41 HOUSING, CLUTCH (Honda Code 8313231 This mounts directly to the GX35 engine and the other end will allow you to insert your driveshaft tube. Not sure on the size hole yet as that item has been ordered but not received.

    Purchased some 1 inch OD aluminum tubing with .125 wall thickness for the drive shaft housing.

    Purchased some 3/8" 304L Stainless Steel Shafting for the drive shaft.

    Purchased some 3/8" X 3/4" Sintered Bronze bushings and also some oil seals for the driveshaft support and sealing against water intrusion.

    A Young's T-10 Propeller.

    I already have the necessary parts to adapt a tiller handle for the throttle control, associated kill switch and transom mount with associated tilt mechanism.

    Many thanks to Mark W for his help and getting me started on this build. I promised to take pictures along the way and hope they help others that may choose this configuration.

    John
     
  5. 48cc Sit On Top
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: UK

    48cc Sit On Top Junior Member

    I got 7mph, but I did notice that there was not much difference in speed when at half throttle or full, (1-2mph diff).
     
  6. American_Yankee
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: Middle Tennessee

    American_Yankee Junior Member

    Helicopter John... this is "exactly" the setup I want to build. Thank you for giving all of the details of what you've ordered. Would like to know more about your sources and costs of these items.

    Also, I sure hope you'll take the time to give the details, and techniques, you use as you build your Honda powered longtail... including pictures. I'm eagerly awaiting that information, and instructions, with "baited breath"!

    You may have mentioned, I claim senility if you have, what kind of boat you're going to be pushing with your Honda powered longtail.

    I've been in contact with Northern Tool, and the only Honda GX35 they have is the GX35(TTN3...?) engine. Their price is $253.35, just as you mentioned...the clutch, but not the clutch bell housing. Where did you order this clutch housing from, and is it metal or plastic, and what did it cost?

    Thanks John, looking forward to hearing all about your build and it's performance. Chuck
     
  7. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Parts List

    Hi Chuck,

    Don't worry about the parts list and vendors. I will share all that information and give you guys plenty of pictures and some videos as I progress. I would give it to you now, but I haven't received all the stuff yet and don't want to lead anyone down the wrong path. Hopefully, the major stuff should be here later this week.

    I have several applications where I may use the Honda GX35 4 Stroke. My friend has a 10 inflatable boat and I have a 12 foot aluminum Jon Boat.

    I also recently purchased some used Honda 5.0 HP motors and intend to make some Long Tails out of them once I get the GX35's working properly.

    I may even make a Gear Reduction Box for use with the Honda GX35 or maybe other popular weed eaters as time permits. This may take a while as I have to find the appropriate gears and design the gearbox on my CAD/CAM software.

    Pretty ambitious schedule but I will get there. Ha Ha

    P.S. Many thanks to all the guys here that have given me the information I requested and shared information on their builds. You Guys are the BEST!

    John
     
  8. American_Yankee
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: Middle Tennessee

    American_Yankee Junior Member

    Hi John,

    I understand what you're saying about waiting until after you've received the goods... to make sure they're what you thought you were getting... that's smart thinking, and we appreciate it. I'm looking diligently for a Honda GX35 engine. I had hoped to find one on a trimmer, that could be bought cheaply!

    Just out of curiosity, would you put the gear reduction downstream of the clutch, or replace the clutch? I like the concept of a clutch, but don't like the concept of clutch slipping, under the unusual load of a propeller. Have you had any feedback on the specific use of the Honda GX35, with the clutch intact, as to whether it slips or does not when powering the proper "Young's" propeller? Being that you've already ordered your prop, you have apparently decided to keep or remove the clutch on your Honda GX35.

    Off subject... but I just got to ask... from your user name, it indicates possibly a career in aviation... yes or no? I've been in aviation all of my life, in various capacities. It's none of my business... just curious. Just thinking us aviation brethren have a lot in common! The "American Yankee" in mine, is the Make and Model of my little "airborne" toy that I've had for years. My piloting quals are up through ATP, and my mechanic quals is A&P. I have been in aircraft sales, and have a home business in aircraft appraisals.

    Hope your conversion is as successful as I think it will be... so I can commit full speed ahead on my project. Thanks again.

    Chuck
     
  9. American_Yankee
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: Middle Tennessee

    American_Yankee Junior Member

    Hey 48cc Sit on Top, congratulations! I'd take 7-8 mph on my Otter Stealth any day. I'm a novice at this, but could your prop diameter be too small? Could the prop be partially cavitating? I'm just guessing.
     
  10. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Honda GX35

    Hi Chuck,

    Good luck on finding a used Honda GX35. I couldn't find any in my area.

    I paid $242.90 for my Honda GX35 from Pats Small Engine which included freight to my location. They were nice enough to open a package and make sure I was getting the correct item I wanted to order. Honda is pretty confusing on their adds as they use the same picture for both items and the Horizontal and Vertical designations are vague to say the least.

    I intend to try the Young's T-10 Prop with no gear reduction for my first try. If I add a gear reduction unit it will be downstream of the Honda Clutch.

    "HelicopterJohn" I fly radio controlled Helicopters and Airplanes and make accessories for the radio controlled guys.

    Check out my Website http://www.helicopterjohn.com/
    Click on the Gallery icon at the top of the home page to see videos of some of the projects I have done. You can also check You Tube for others not listed on my website.

    John
     
  11. American_Yankee
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: Middle Tennessee

    American_Yankee Junior Member

    Hi John,

    Tell me about it! I'm having the same problems you mention in finding a used GX35 engine! I'll probably wind up buying a new one... in about the same price range. Maybe "new" is the best way to go anyway.

    One of the other builders on here has posted pics of his reduction unit installed. It looks like he installed it as a "direct drive", but I can't tell from the pictures. Again, I agree with you, I'd like to keep my clutch intact. Maybe erroneously, but in my mind, I see the clutch as the "safety fuse" for the engine. I can replace a burned out clutch a lot cheaper than I can replace an engine! I'm no engineer, so my thoughts on this aren't based on any factual data. I do see it as a "configuration" problem, to get a housing downstream of the clutch, and also install the housing for the shaft to fit into. Looking at the "Illustrated Parts Breakdown"... there appears to be more parts than just the clutch bell housing, and the housing that receives the shaft. I see a bearing and some other parts in there. It also looks like buying these parts "individually" can get pricey!

    Thanks for the link to your website. I'll check it out. I've always been interested in anything aviation wise... just couldn't afford both the cost of flying and a radio controlled plane too! I'm spell bound at where the radio controlled movement has gone...an SR-71 Blackbird... wow!

    Chuck
     
  12. Mark Wo
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: Minnesota

    Mark Wo Senior Member

    Hull speed

    Your little motor will only push the boat at hull speed and no faster. On a 15 foot boat that is about 6.0 mph. You would need significantly more horsepower to get the boat to plane and thus go faster. Naturally, this is an estimate but fairly close. I believe hull shape makes minor speed increases or descreases.

    http://www.sailingusa.info/cal__hull_speed.htm

    Mark
     
  13. Mark Wo
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: Minnesota

    Mark Wo Senior Member

    Clutch - something to consider

    I have a few of these homebuilt motors and I have to tell you, I would never build another one without a clutch.. My #1 reason is safety. I use this motor in shallow water and depending upon the stream, I may need to get in and out of the boat to pull it over the log jams or shallow areas. Because I hunt in cold weather, constantly starting and stopping the motor just isn't fun nor easy in some instances. When getting out of the boat, I've had the motor swing around and hit me in the back - more than once. If the prop had been spinning, I hate to think what would have happened.

    The clutch is nice to have as you have an actual neutral. I know you can lift a spinning prop out of the water to get the same results but once again, you have a spinning prop out of the water that who knows what it could do damage to.

    Not all clutches are the same - same thing with the mini motors. Cheap motor and cehap clutchs will wear out and not work well. high quality motors and high quality clutches work wonderfully well.

    Mark
     
  14. HelicopterJohn
    Joined: May 2012
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    Location: Seffner, Florida

    HelicopterJohn HelicopterJohn

    Clutch Housing

    Hi Chuck,

    I ordered my 11-22260-VL3-D41 : HOUSING, CLUTCH from Boats.net and it cost me $36.20 including shipping. They were temporarily out of stock but just got a message from them and they are now in stock and they are shipping mine today. Like I said I haven't received this item so I have no way of telling if I will get the correct item until it arrives. From what I understand it includes the Clutch bell, associated outer housing, adapter for attaching your drive shaft, bearings, snap rings etc. I don't have the parts breakdown as it is on my other computer.

    And I agree with Mark on the clutch.

    John
     

  15. American_Yankee
    Joined: Apr 2012
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    Location: Middle Tennessee

    American_Yankee Junior Member

    Hi John,

    That sounds like a pretty good deal, if everything you need is included in the clutch. Mark O was talking about a "good" clutch, and a not so good clutch, but didn't say what was the good one. Maybe he meant the clutch on the cheaper trimmers, as opposed to one on the Honda GX35, or one ordered online.

    I was just pricing a 5 foot section of aluminum 2024-T3 tubing online, and at OnlineMetals.com it was $86.83... before shipping and handling! That was like .125 wall thickness, which leaves roughly 3/4" for Inside Diameter. I may have to visit the local "metals salvage yard".

    Please let me know what you get when you get your clutch... a pic would be nice if it's not too much trouble. If it's everything, and you're happy with the deal, I'll probably order one as well. Thanks.

    Chuck
     
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