Weed eater engine conversion

Look for Trolling motor props to throw on your Weed Eater Engine. And make sure your weed eater has a clutch system. If it spins when started without adding gas it will die when you put it in the water.

 

Be careful with the above advice. There are some awful funny videos on youtube of people who did just that only to find out that the prop from a trolling motor is set up for motors that spin the other way. You need a prop that will work with the motor you use. First you need to determine if your set up spins counter clockwise or clockwise and the buy an apporpriate motor.

The advice above is good, just not 100% correct for all instances.

Mark

 

anyone tried the duropower 5.5 h.p that goes for $99 yet?

Thanks

 

And make sure your weed eater has a clutch system.

That answers my first question.

I bought a B&S 32cc 4 stroke weed eater motor. Looks like I'll have to buy the clutch too.
FWIW I got the motor for $110 brand new at small motor warehouse.

On to the prop. Since it's 4 stroke it's going to be turning lower rpms. I'm assuming I can go with a bigger prop. What size would be appropriate?

 

I think you will find a post on the b and s motor further back ..I think the guy had problems with the tapered output shaft ..a 1/2 inch drive shaft is OK
Props are all down to experimentation ...youngs props are very popular ..look back thro the listings !!!!! Your b and s will go 3600 rpm ..not convinced you need a clutch ...lower it into the water as you open the throttle seems to be the way to go .

Duckho ..I think your duro power is same/similar to my lifan ..see my post lower down Thai longtail with 6.5 hp lifan/honda ..very easy to make as its all in a straight line...

 

I'm not sure about the clutch either. None of the longtails that I've seen have one. Not to say that you can't put one, but I don't think its necessary. Lift the prop out of the water for neutral.

 

clutch

32cc B&S 4 stroke may not have enough umph. What's the hp? Toeque spec?

I've made mud motors with and without the clutch and I'll never build another without a clutch if I can help it. Being able to start the motor without worrying about where the prop is and being able to let it idle in the water without spinning the prop makes the whole experience so much better.

These little motors can get away from you if you are not holding onto it the entire time. I've had the motor spin around on me and had the shaft hit my backsides more than once. I use the little mud motor differently than the bigger mud motors. I use it in sahllow water and small streams so I am frequently getting in and out of the boat to drag it around stuff or over stuff I can't motor through. If you are going to use the motor differntly so that you will always be in the boat and start the motor at the landing and turn it off when you get to the blind, then maybe no clutch will be fine. If you are going to chase crippled birds, having a clutch once again is a big positive.

Just sharing some experience.

Mark

 

It's 34cc and about 1hp. I use a canoe to get to the blind and this is more for back upstream than anything else. The river is shallow for the most part and the canoe and all the gear and me is less than 350 lbs. Hell. If a 49cc 2cycle can push a layout boat this ought to push a canoe.
I'll give it a try anyway and let you all know.

 

Not trying to be difficult

Many have built a 31cc 2 stroke motor and had success. Some have built 31cc 2 strokes and not had success (myself and John O'Neal for example) I am wondering if the B&S 1 hp will do what you want it to do. Go over to the Rickshaw site and look at the motor he has commercially available. That is a 4 stroke Honda GX 35 that puts out 1.5hp. He uses a 3:1 gear reducer to make it all work. Please don't take my comments as being a naysayer as there are so many who have said a weedeater mud motor would never ever work when they never built one. Just trying to provide some insight so that maybe you can find a gera reducer or hop up the motor a little bit. I've never built a 4 stroke mini mudmotr so I could be all wet. I'm hoping it works well so you can tell the rest of us how to make one.

As and fyi - my layout boat weighs 59 lbs and I'm at 200 on a good day. Who knows how much all the assorted hunting gear weighs but I bet I'm near or over 300lbs when all is said and done.

Mark

 

I think the problem with the motors that dont work is one of the following
1/mechanical losses ...bearings ..1 inch dia drive shafts ,thrust onto motor bearings .....1/4 shaft is ok use a thrust bearing in the system !!
2/ too large a prop so it wont rev..thats where the guy with the gearbox scores he has matched the torque and revs to the prop ....these are not a lot diffeent from motors used in models and there are lots of props for them cheap on ebay to try ..
Google Ron Hill Propellers he does full size racing ...mud motor and small model props in stainless steel

 

I built one out of the Briggs moter and it works fine but if you dont have one just laying around and you need to go purchase a moter you should go bigger. Trust me you'll wish you did. My Briggs is still going strong but the clutch is getting bad. When it's time to change it it's going to be a headache. The 50cc moters are made with clutch shoes that are easily replaced..the way to go.

I wouldn't worry bout weight as much. You'll get hull speed pretty easy. I load mine down and it doesn't change at all as long as im not running in thick weeds and flooded brush.

 

Anyone know what size/model prop and where one would go to purchase it for the 6.5 h.p. longtails like ripped off and john o'neal built?

 

Duckho; I bought the prop for my 6.5 hp Lifan from Ron Hill Propellers on Ebay. I was able to purchase it for $85.00 using the make offer option. I used the prop sizing chart that can be found on the Mud Buddy web site to determine the size. I think the recommended size for a 6.5 hp is 6.5"x4. I have made several performance improvements to my 6.5 and it now puts out 9 hp so I opted for the recommended 7"x4 pitch.

 

What john says is 100% but remember its a left hand prop so you have less choice as most props are right hand ...If you have not built it yet give thought to my chain drive option its easier and lighter to build and there are lots of right hand props on e bay at silly money ..It drives a 9 x10 with the 2:1 gearing and I bought three yamaha ones for $50 on e bay

 

John, thanks for the quick reply and the honest answer. I had already visited the mudbuddy website and was prepared to drop the $185 as a last resort effort.

I'm building my mud motor off the same engine that you have and will be researching the scooter website for performance upgrades also. I will post pictures and reports once I have it finished.

Thanks again,
Duckho