used motor oil as fuel

exactly, the leftovers are the same in the kiln process. But I bet the kiln process is cheaper. The conversion is no big secret but its difficult/impossible to do on a large scale economically even with today's high fuel prices. The trick is to get your costs down, I'm not seeing a big expensive custom microwave as being economical. My system should produce 50~100 gallons a day. Twice that if I actively cool the reaction chamber, but that brings in a host of other problems, Thats only $200~$400, which isn't making a killing. But now build ten of them and they pay you to take the tires. It starts getting a little more interesting. Thing is a large manufacturing plant just can't compete with the 1k per unit set up cost. I'm betting I can get it down to 1k per unit after I bludgeon my way through the first one.

Whats the microwave cost ? would be my big question

The one draw back of my system is that I need a tire shredder and making one looks like a pain in the ***. But it can be done. All I really need is the cutting wheels

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Hn8gLHHU2ThMPcoLw&sig2=dxkXSHdacLawhBGU02NM2g

 

The microwave thing has been around for a few years..the secret is finding the right frequencies,and running it in a vacuum.

The excess gasses are more than enough to fuel a gen to run the machine.

 

they are but regulating that gas is the tricky and expensive part. The cheaper solution is to simply run the system on electricity and use the volatile gas left overs to run a generator and sell the power back to the grid.

 

",and haven't changed the oil in 3.5 years/460 hours.
I'm not being cheap,I just like to have perfect oil and a by product of that is I just don't need to change it. "

About 20% of a modern diesel oil is additives , anti wear , anti scuffing , acid eaters etc.

The entire package is required , so unless you burn a load of oil, removing a gallon every 20,000 miles to replace some of the additive package is mandatory.

Modern truck engines can run 1.5 million miles before rebuilding , and cleaning the oil with a centrifuge works better than the paper towel secondary filters.

Replacing the paper towel rolls requires oil addition which the centrifuge does not, BEWARE!
The engine MFG requirement to change oil on time installed (not hours) is to refresh the required additive package.

FF

 

Hi FF thanks for the concern..trust me if I had any concerns I'd change it.

Detergent depletion,varnish,etc is caused by moisture in the oil and those tiny carbon particles-if they are not there,there is no problem. I've read university and industry articles on this.

The oil checks indicate the oil to be as in new condition,though I did change the filters a couple years ago,so thats a litre or so...but the boat has been in dry storage for 16 months now.

 

Why did I have to open this thread?!? Now I want to make one of these!!!

Must keep building boat... must keep building boat...

 

Some questions that arise from what FF brought up about this . . . .

Do you have a list of all additives and their percentages in the oil when it was new ? *

Give the test result a list of all the additives and their percentages in the oil as tested so you can compare with the original what is left and what is gone of the additives ? *

Or give the test results only the sort and amount of pollution in the oil ?

Thanks for all the info posted . . . .

Cheers,
Angel

P.S. - * If both yes, it would also be interesting to test the new oil to see if it is up to specs . . :idea:

 

. . . . . . . Get out of here . . . . . . .

I suggested the split off to protect you from distraction . . . . :idea:

Good luck with the build . . . .

Cheers,
Angel

 

Blowby which is unavoidable in an operating engine , allows combustion products into the oil, an ACID. This must be neutralized , it can not be boiled off or filtered.

*****

The whole world is awash with waste tires.Sometimes they'll pay you to take them away.

Best system I have ever seen was to immerse them under liquid lead , the oil came out and the steel and other tire materials could be removed.

Probably a problem with the air police tho.

FF

 

I gotta go with Fast Fred on this one. If for no other reason than that I burn a lot of odd ball stuff and any blow by "will" contaminate the oil. Veggie oil or bio diesel makes lousy lubricant or at least not sufficient to make up for oil. Its a great way to wreck an engine. Actually its one of the primary concerns I have with running alternative fuels. I check my oils quality regularly, granted its just a look at it, smell it, roll it around in my fingers kinda thing but still. I'm pretty on top of my oil. Its about the one thing that could screw up that old international 7.3 of mine.

 

If you're burning all that stuff..by all means go hard on the oil changes.


Acids are formed by the moisture,of which there is none.What isn't caught by the centrifuge is caught by the filters.
I've been told my oil is like new,had the engines inspected and been told everything is 100% perfect.

 

I've been looking for a good flicker of the kiln type pyrolysis device but as of yet I've really not found one that really shows it all that well. There's lots of just gasification systems which is just a fancy way of heating up a fuel in a oxygenles environment and then burning the gas in a more controlled manor, like in a internal combustion engine.

The pyrolysis of tires into diesel is a bit more complex but not much. Soon as I find a descent video I'll post it

 

Interesting stuff.

Hey B what part of Denver you in..N or S?

I'm interested in an old car in Denver, I'd pay ya to go lay eyes on it..in a week or two.

 

I'm just south of the city. About three or four miles.

yah I gotta finish the truck and then I can start on the pyrolysis system. Who knows, might even make some money on that one. ;-)

 

This sliding aside from elsewhere is more on topic here so I'll quote it to keep both threads on topic.