used motor oil as fuel

If you can get one to run off 12v,then can ya do away with all the filters then but keep the water sep?

I know it works on an engine,i don't know how many run throughs it would take to clean filthy oil

That 12v one I found ~ 2 years ago had a lift pump and heater built in,so you could fill up your tank and let it run overnight or whatever. Hook up a battery charger/transformer to run off the mains.

 

I'm into redundancy of more primitive methods more than a single using higher tech, I'd be inclined to reduce the number of filters to 3 one of each and then use the 12v spinner, and a separate pump. Lots of auto manufactures got into trouble early on when they undersized there oil pumps. So I don't tend to want to put to much strain on the engines system if I can help it. Also I can use the extra pump to lift new fuel into the tank at fill up. Remember I'm generally out behind some service station staring down a couple 50 gallon drums of old filthy oil, with no way to get it into my tank but my auxiliary pump.

Frosty, Old oil really doesn't break down, all you gotta do is clean it and its good to go. Taking the bigger stuff out of it is actually a pretty low tech job. Its the free carbon that makes the stuff smoke ( if your not tuned well ) and when your under load. Which is actually a couple of things but still.

anyway ya, you could run it through just about any diesel but you'd want to thin it with something, depends on what engine and more importantly what injectors your running. The Delphi BB injectors are the ones you want to flow used motor oil properly.

 

Boston why not use a vacuum pump and suck it in . The vacuum pump can be running all the time accumulating vacuum until you need it.

Apply vacuum from your acumulator into your tank and just suck it out of the donar drum.

Like a wet vac vacuum cleaner.

 

vacuum pumps work great, they are actually the best for lifting but the deal is its an extra pump with all the accompanying stuff. My goal is to design a working system, then pare it down to its minimal components, then rebuild it in just the right format using the lightest materials I can. Not sure if Carbon fiber would hold up against fuel very well but I've toyed with the idea. The tank empty is about +500 lbs, way to heavy for a boat. I'd like to get that down to half at least. If I did it in CF I bet I could get it down to 100lbs

oh also I'd need just the right lid for whatever type of drum they might have, means I'd have to carry an assortment around with me. Its easier to just shove a pipe down its throat and flip a switch. Granted takes 30+ minutes but its only a few times a year.

 

The Ford looks like an 8th generation F-Series which has an indirect injection International.

Cheers,
Angel

 

Bos, the veggie oil you also use is that used frying oil . . ?

If so, doesn't it have a lot of baked chunks in it that quickly fills and block the first filters . . ?

Did you have to replace the seals in the fuel system for vegetable oil resistant ones or was it standard suitable for this . . ?

Any other modifications on the engine itself to run on veggie or WMO (waste motor oil) . . ?

Cheers,
Angel

 

The veggie oil "is" used fry oil, I get it from the pizza place just down the street. They make great pizza as well so it works out for both of us.

yes it has a lot of crud in it, I prefilter it through a cheese cloth doubled up and it takes a huge amount of the crap out of it. Then I settle it for a few weeks, depends on the temp. Which does two things, it separates the the heavier glycerin rich stuff out and the light sweater "crude" so to speak remains on top. Still smells like french fries but its much less likely to cause trouble going through the system. I pore off the good stuff ( dump it in the big fuel tank ) and put the whitish heavier stuff back into the oil recycle bin at the pizza place. Then I just throw it into the tank and let it filter just like anything else.

Which why I mentioned that I have maybe 150 gallons in the back yard, its best to just let it settle for a while. So if I have a few hundred gallons floating around, its got plenty of time before I need it.

I replaced all the seals but not with anything special, I was just doing a basic rebuild. The entire fuel delivery system is new, about the only thing I changed was going to the BB injectors. I've not noticed any difficulties yet, but thats why I'm doing up the truck, as kinda a test bed for when I do the boat. I want to make all my mistakes now, on dry land. Tow trucks kinda hard to get out on the water. That and no way was I going to get the tank right the first time. So I just figured I'd go for it and once I get the system down I can design a more exacting set up the neatly and lightly houses all the stuff I need so I won't sink the boat with it all.

All in all the most important thing is to have a clean system, IE no build up of crap in the fuel lines or tanks. Thing is that bio diesel is alcohol based, basically you take veggie oil which is a triglyceride, split off the carbon chains, leaving the glycerin, then recombine the carbon chains on an alcohol molecule, throw out the glycerin. Its much more caustic than either the dino based diesel or the veggie oil. But it works fantastic to thin out the motor oil. Takes about 5% bio diesel to thin it out to almost the consistency of diesel. The fact that its more caustic means that it tends to disolve any sludge you might have in your fuel system, which can clog up things like injectors, filters and even pumps. So its important to have a very clean system. I'll be dropping the on board tanks and cleaning them out completely as well as replacing the preliminary pumps before I really hit the road with that truck this spring.

just now have the cash to go buy two new in tank pumps and all the crap I need to really make a good job of it.

I'm also putting one ton suspension on it.

As far as any other modifications, not really, at least not in regard to the fueling system. I put headers on it, but that was for other reasons. About the only thing I did was use heavy duty fuel pumps. The two in tank pumps only come in one type so no option there, the mechanical pump I was able to upgrade and the IP is just a rebuild, um Stanadyne ( bound to have spelled that wrong ) I think. I'd have to go look it up but its just the standard mechanical IP. Which is something that makes this particular engine so easy to convert. There are three pumps involved, I could probably push concrete through this thing.

Just wait till I start the fracking system build, Then you guys will really wonder what the hell your doing buying diesel. I should be able to take old crappy tires, shred them, ( thats actually the expensive part ) place them in an enclosed chamber, heat it to a little under 400°C using an old pottery kiln, and then distill the vapor into diesel fuel. There's even a wash that will eliminate the burned tires smell. There's a legislator I know up on capitol hill that says he can get me all the tires I want and he'll even try and land a contract to sell the fuel to the highway dep. We had a few drinks one night and after I'd explained it to him he was all kinds of interested. Apparently CO is awash with waste tires.

 

The standard mechanical IP is an Stanadyne DB-2, even the spelling was right

Thanks for the info

You must love Dutch John . . . . . .


See ‘‘DJ’’ in the grill



Some others . . . .






A load of fuel . . . .


Cheers,
Angel

 

yup
I want to build one for the boat. But mine will be smaller because tires and plastic have a much higher yield than leaves and twigs. I'd love to be able to use sea weed but I think the salts might be a problem, not sure about that but probably.

I've got one designed that uses just a regular pottery kiln and several condensation chambers.

couple things about those systems

those are pure gasification systems. Its illegal here in the states to process fuel on a vehicle intended for highway use. So although I can filter on board I can't actually produce it on board. Secondly those are gasification systems, not quite what I want to do because they work in conjunction with gasoline engines. I want diesel for the power band it gives me which is whats best suited for a marine application. There system simply turns the feed stock into a volatile gas in an oxygenless environment and then burns it and all its impurities through an engine intended for gasoline. My system does gasify the material but then condenses it out kinda like a still at various temps. Fractioning off the heavy tars and paraffin which go back to the reaction chamber. The diesel comes off as does the gasoline and whats left is mostly impurities and volatile gasses. They get burned to heat the system, although the system is initiated with electricity.

Using the left overs to light the system is very tricky, because they are not consistently produced throughout the process. I'm just as likely to simply burn them off like the oil and gas people do. But I'm still working on it. Once the truck is done I can get started on the "still"

the system doesn't have to be all million dollar stainless steel either. I'm thinking 2k should build what I want and work OK as a test bed.

I'm hoping to be on it by summer.

 

The whole world is awash with waste tires.Sometimes they'll pay you to take them away.

I'm interested in fracking and IIRC the only PITA waste is the sidewalls?

 

It sounds all technical but its supper easy. Several things that effect ones ability to fracture your own fuels. One is the EPA, I'm lucky because I have some dirt zoned farm. Means I could do it there without any regulations. But I'm not really that intent on screwing it up. Because if you build a system that maintains the temps in the right ranges the volatile gasses that are left over are nothing different than what come off an oil refinery, and the system is rigged to allow them huge levels of burn off. So my little system falls well within the air purity standards. Another is the babysitting time. You gotta have the time to sit there and baby sit the device so you don't light anything on fire. I plan on using an old kiln built extra tall by stacking two on top of one another. It will have a timer called a kiln sitter, so I'm at least safe from being a space cadet. But you've still got to have a few days to basically dedicate to making fuel.

your basic large kiln could fit a reaction chamber in it large enough to make maybe 20 gallons at a time. And it takes about 4~5 hours to make it. But 20 gallons isn't going to fly if you ask me. So my system will be designed to produce something like 100 gallons at a time. That way even if it takes overnight to cool off so I can open it up and add more feed stock I'm still getting a full tank ( I have a 200 gallon tank in the truck ) with two days expenditure

The system really is very simple

I plan on taking a flanged pipe in the 22" diameter range and maybe 6' long and welding a flange blank on the bottom of the section. Thats my reaction chamber. I'll drill out another flange blank to accommodate the vapor tube going out to the first condensation chamber and thats my cap to seal the chamber.

The flange blank on the top will be bolted down and sealed using a high temp gasket sealant, its important to get a good seal so i opted for using a liquid sealant that hardens with temp rather than a mechanical seal that might leak. If it leaks, your screwed.

That whole thing slips down into two kilns one placed on top the other to make one tall kiln with maybe 12 heating elements in it. The pipe reaction chamber will stick out the top and need to be insulated. I was thinking of even stacking another kiln but this one not operational on top of that, The point being to insulate the pipe.

The reason I'm not heating that top kiln section is that I need to have some extra room in the reaction chamber to allow for boiling, I don't want liquids reaching my vapor tube so I've got to allow enough room in the chamber for a fairly lively boil. The system is at low pressure and some boiling is bound to occur.

In the first incarnation of the device I'm just going to go with off the rack components so I can just get her done and running. I'm after proof of concept so I don't really plan on spending a lot of money on this first one. Fat chance that will work out eh.

Ok once I get the reaction chamber and kilns set up with a vapor pipe coming out the top I want to get it into my first condensation chamber. which should be held at a temp of about 180°C, that temps is just over the condensation temp of diesel, everything that comes out of that can either be pored off and held to process again or if I want to get tricky I can rig a system that returns it to the reaction chamber. From there vapor can go to the second condensation chamber. This one is the important one and needs to be help at no less than 120°C. Holding that exact temp throughout the process is very important to getting good diesel. I was thinking a small kiln set to 120 and rigged with a air cooling if needed would do the trick. My plan on this chamber is kinda tricky, that first chamber can just be an insulated tube with a drain valve at the bottom and a thermostat to check the temp, that and maybe a fan to cool it off if needed. but this second tube needs to be able to both heat and cool because the quality of your diesel depends entirely on holding a specific temp with about a 20°C range. Other wise if its to cool you can get gasoline in it and if its to hot you end up with paraffin's in it. Neither are particularly good for your engine.

The third tube is held at no less than 80°C which will fraction off gasoline. After that you want to use a water bubbler to keep air from getting into the system and then a collection tube at the top of that container to carry the left over volatile gasses up and away to a safe place to burn them off.

I'll post a diagram of what I want to do but thats basically it

In some third world countries these types of systems are about the only reliable source of fuel they have. Its kinda funny how primitive they can be and still put out perfectly good fuel.

I saw one that didn't even use any temp gauges, the first chamber was insulated, the second wasn't the third had cooling fins on it. Then they burned off the excess gas. Worked Ok I guess.

Anyway I want mine a bit more accurate but only enough to effectively put out fuel

I'm thinking the whole thing should fit on a pallet size base

 

B -sounds great.

I've looked into this stuff...the microwave system is also interesting..apparantly there is a co. that makes small ones.

 

Wouldn't it be easier to mix used oil with regular diesel.

 

there's lots of people who do that D but without making adequate adjustments in the filtering system you'll eventually wreck your engine. Same with any of the alternative fuels. Its not hard, I went a bit overboard with it, but a few extra filters preferably rigged in graduating order go a long way to preserving that engine.

West, I never heard of the microwave systems but I'd think the steel belts would screw them up. The expensive part of the fracturing is shredding the tires. But I think I could probably make one of those somehow as well. It would have to be a small one but there really pretty simple once you see one working.

oh
and buying anything along the lines of a gasification system is mind bending expensive. If your not welding it up in your own back yard, you'd better have some really deep pockets. The Denver Zoo ( bastads that they are ) just spent about 30 million on a small system designed to turn there trash into power. Works fine I guess but its also 30 million conservation dollars down the tubes. I'd have build them one for 5 mill ;-)

 

I'd have done it for $4 mill ..

B these are not $50 microwaves from Walmart,but special industrial ones specially designed,and the steel doesn't hurt them.
Basically you're left with a pile of carbon and wire.