Fiberglass Lay Up Question on a 32 Deep Vee

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by anastasi, Apr 6, 2012.

  1. anastasi
    Joined: Apr 2012
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 1, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Trinidad

    anastasi New Member

    Hi all.

    I would like to layup my own 32 foot by 8.5 foot deep vee hull with 150HP of inboard motor.

    Based on your experience, what would be a good layup to give a good balance of weight and strength?

    Can you suggest a lay up including the weight of the fibreglass cloth that should be used at each layer?

    I did some research and the scantling number based on this design is 1.44. I am looking for any advice comments on my lay up proposal.

    Will the above layout be strong enough to handle 150HP of inboard motor? Thanks guys for any help.

    Layer 1: Iso gelcoat

    Layer 2: Iso gelcoat layer 2

    Layer 3: ?

    Layer 4: ?

    Layer 5: ?

    Layer 6: ?


    Thanks for any input in advance.
     
  2. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    need some pictures of the mould if possible and a laist of what you intend to happen with the inside, Floors stringer and what ever else you intend to do . transom ?? how thick do you need and are you looking at a bracket or platform ??
    Under floor fuel tank ?? if so how big . :?::confused:
     
  3. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    no answer or dont want to answer ??? are all here to help !!!
    :D
     
  4. anastasi
    Joined: Apr 2012
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 1, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Trinidad

    anastasi New Member

    Details on the Build

    The type of boat being built is called a Pirogue. It is a type of boat that is built in the Caribbean and runs really well in rough waters. This boat can be built two ways:

    1. With a Mould
    2. By using another boat as a Mould

    I am building the boat using the second method. An old boat is flipped and waxed, Mould Release is then applied to the boat. The skin is then pulled from the mould, tied into place, then the stringers are installed inside of the boat and screwed in place from the outside of the boat, and glassed into place. Screws can be removed of left there.

    The majority of the wood used in the boat would be either pine or cedar. Marine ply is used in the construction of the boat but only is certain areas such as the cross members.

    The boat's hull is not completely made of wood, it is just reinforced in key areas by stringers and cross members. I have included some photos, and there is an article about the boat at this website address http://www.motorboating.com/boats/caribiana-34. This type of boat is used by many fishermen in Trinidad and Tobago. Any help that you can give would be appreciated.

    Thanks.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    First off how many of these boats do you want to make ??
    You want to just lay up Glass on the outside of another old boat and make that into a boat??
    Thats a nice looking shape and with a big motor would be pretty quick boat and in a biggish sea way an interesting ride so the glass will have to be substantual to say the least !! Also the frame inside would have to be something better than just thrown together any old how with a few screws and a bit of glue here and there !! If you want to make a boat then you have to reveal a little more information or no one will want to stick there neck in a noose and get blamed if it all falls apart first time out !!.:eek:
    I do like the grass growing in the back of the boat behind the seat !!. :D
     

  6. Cawley
    Joined: Aug 2011
    Posts: 14
    Likes: 4, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 26
    Location: Treasure Island

    Cawley Junior Member

    Anastasi, I have seen this question asked a few times on this site. It seems no one wants to give out a lay up schedule even if it is just to point you right direction. Since you are only asking for advise, and I am sure you understand there is more to building a boat than the layup schedule, I will throw something out there.
    1 ISO gel
    2 2 layers chopstrand matt 3/4 once
    3 4 layers 1708 biax, all overlapped down the V.
    4 2 layers 3/4 inch ply for transom. Glassed together and glassed over.
    5 core for all flat panels.
    6 since you are starting with a male mold, I would cover the outside of the hull with 3/4 ounce matt to help you with the fairing process later on.

    This is just a starting point..... I would tab stringers in with 2-3 layers of 1708 glass tape 6-8 inches wide. I would not screw the stringers down through the hull. I would also prefer to start with a mold and not a boat, it would save a ton of time in finish work. Good luck with your build. Hope this helps a little more than the other answers you will get.
     
    1 person likes this.
Loading...
Similar Threads
  1. PickNasty
    Replies:
    17
    Views:
    3,830
  2. Tom Peach
    Replies:
    42
    Views:
    2,731
  3. Jeeps
    Replies:
    8
    Views:
    1,090
  4. SeanT71
    Replies:
    24
    Views:
    4,563
  5. garage monster
    Replies:
    9
    Views:
    3,493
  6. boatymcboatface
    Replies:
    1
    Views:
    2,265
  7. makobuilders
    Replies:
    15
    Views:
    9,281
  8. Jmooredesigns
    Replies:
    9
    Views:
    4,932
  9. therigwelder
    Replies:
    23
    Views:
    16,855
  10. mattyc
    Replies:
    0
    Views:
    3,365
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.