Transom extension

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by bobbrown, Apr 5, 2022.

  1. bobbrown
    Joined: Jul 2021
    Posts: 31
    Likes: 2, Points: 8
    Location: SE Georgia

    bobbrown Junior Member

    Ply on frame …14 foot…9.9 hp outboard. I’m about to finish this thing up.was all set with the transom for short shaft. Well, low and behold a buddy set me up with a 4 stroke long shaft. So now I need to raise the transom 5” or so. I can go to the bandsaw and make a somewhat decorative extension…so that’s not the issue. The existing transom is basically framed 2x4 covered with 1/4” ply. So, I have a nice flat top to work with. Don’t really want the expense or weight of a bought extension. My current thinking is run a series of pins epoxied in oversized hole per Gougeon Brothers manual.
    Any thoughts….thanks
     
  2. wet feet
    Joined: Nov 2004
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    Location: East Anglia,England

    wet feet Senior Member

    Is there some reason for not running the long shaft as is? Other than the propellor being a little deeper in the water,what problem do you think it would cause?
     
  3. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

  4. bobbrown
    Joined: Jul 2021
    Posts: 31
    Likes: 2, Points: 8
    Location: SE Georgia

    bobbrown Junior Member

    This boat will be used in shallow inshore marsh. Concerning the jack plate….just doesn’t interest me. I’m at the stage where this fix is easy to do…my concern was the method of using pins in over sized epoxy filled holes. I have a lot of experience in this type application…used to build high end pergolas with no exposed fasteners…all thickened epoxy pins. I just can’t see the problem but thought it might be a good idea to float the thought to you guys. Thanks
     
  5. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    The pins idea ain't great unless they are say 1/2" metal.

    Another way would be to remove the top and epoxy extensions onto the existing timbers. Probably 6" of sistering would be good. In buildings, this type of extending is not allowed and called pinpointing...fyi.

    But, you can remove the existing plywood sides past the sistering and make it pretty strong. Or overlap the existing plywood, but that is kinda ugly sounding.

    Anytime you present discontinuity in a structure; it creates a weakness next to an area of strength, but for only 10hp; the forces are not so great, generally.
     
  6. bobbrown
    Joined: Jul 2021
    Posts: 31
    Likes: 2, Points: 8
    Location: SE Georgia

    bobbrown Junior Member

    Thanks fallguy
     
    fallguy likes this.

  7. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    Forgot to mention, to sister timbers, dry fit, then mixed epoxy coat both sides for an hour, then use thickened epoxy 2:1 cabosil to epoxy by volume for the bond.
     
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