Twin I/O to Twin Outboard Conversion Project

If its an ablative paint, maybe a lower psi pressure washer. The electric ones are often under 2kpsi and seem to be mild enough to only take off bottom paint.

 

I'm still sceptical about those angular supports. Drill horizontal holes thru both vertical parts of C-support beam .Put 1/2" bolt thru both.
On the upper parts I would use some angular metal brackets to be sure of connection.

 

Are these vertical poles solidly attached to the C-beam in f-r movement? As above I recommended big bolts. Why big? Better load distribution into the wood. Not for metal strength itself.

 

Anodized ? Isn't multilayer painted ?

 

House drifts away from land as typhoon hits Alaska https://www.bbc.com/news/videos/c07mndrgerpo
nice weather ...

 

Thanks for the replies folks.

I'm good with the gantry . . . It has through bolts in key areas . . . they may not show well in the pictures. My engineering background tells me that it could probably lift the boat!

Anodizing . . . Here is a brief on Mercruiser's Seacore system.

SeaCore® system. It’s an entire package of durable, corrosion-fighting technology that offers an extraordinary level of protection, including hard-coat anodizing on the drive, stainless-steel fasteners and components, and a closed cooling system.

It does have the standard Mercruiser paint on it as well, plus 10 years of ablative AF paint. I'll probably put a fresh coat of gloss black on the drives once I get them cleaned up.

I may try this paint remover on a small area to see how it does. . . It looks to be mostly alcohol based.

 

Here are a couple of other paint strippers that I may try . . .


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Once used some paint stripper and I've been disappointed. Maybe some soft e.g. sodium bicarbonate blasting will be better. Sodium bicarbonate is also easy to flush out. Some trial should be done .

 

I put the gantry to work . . .
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Getting the rear seat assembly off of the hinges was a challenge, but with some cutting, lifting and prying I was able to get the rear seat off the boat

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Next steps will be to pull the engines . . .

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I have a pallet for each of them.

As for the outdrives . . . here is a picture of the anodized aluminum. I have some stuff coming tomorrow to try to get the paint off and not disturb the anodizing.

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Tomorrow will be pulling the engines.

 

Good progress.


More from the peanut gallery:

A 2' - 3' sacrificial plank ( 2x6? ) atop your crossbar ( Main Beam ) would
reduce point loading and prevent creating a surface flaw at the beams weakest point.

 

Thx.

I may put something up there on top of the beam. The center has the highest bending moment, if you call that the weakest point. The width is 4.5" (11.5 cm) So, I may have to rip a 2x6.

When I lift the engines, the lifting points will be about 18" off-center, coinciding with the engine spacing. I designed the beam for such and those lifting points are right next to the knee braces.

The rear seat assembly seemed to be a lot heavier than I anticipated . . . the fiberglass is insanely thick, and I'm not sure there is much coring, else it would be lighter.

 

I guess I could have called it the breaking point.

Clever.

Will you lift the engines simultaneously?

 

No real need to, and the port engine has to 'slide' over towards starboard in order to clear the rear settee framework. So, the starboard engine has to be out of the way first.

 

Defoul?

DeFoul Safe Bottom Paint Remover https://goindustrial.com/products/defoul-safe-bottom-paint-remover

or 60 grit

 

I’m surprised you couldn’t get anyone’s 2 cents on the 2” question. I have no idea; just wish others coined in.

At what angle of incline does the extenda pod exit the water? My guess is that would be the key element.