Tutorial - Building Fairing Boards

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by flyfishingmonk, Apr 1, 2011.

  1. viking north
    Joined: Dec 2010
    Posts: 1,868
    Likes: 94, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 1146
    Location: Newfoundland & Nova Scotia

    viking north VINLAND

    Looks like you're using reg. aluminium oxide paper recommended for wood. I've had little to no success with it -especially if it becomes damp. There are new products on the market now that are recommended for glass work with extremely long lasting(anti clogging) and agressive grits. For normal cleaning I use a big rubber belt sander erasor and easily cleaned of heavly gummed up accumulation with a fine to med 6 in. circular wire brush on a drill press.(like when someone forgets to add air dry to the gel coat) :)--Thought i'd pass it along just in case--Geo.
     
  2. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    What are these aggressive abrasives and how long do they last?

    I can't say I have any problem at all with this 36 grit aluminum oxide paper, but if there is a way to speed things up....
     
  3. viking north
    Joined: Dec 2010
    Posts: 1,868
    Likes: 94, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 1146
    Location: Newfoundland & Nova Scotia

    viking north VINLAND

    The big plus with the grits developed for fiberglass is less subject to clogging and they keep that sharp cutting edge much longer than what you are using. It's like that cutting action when you first put on a new sheet of what you are using but that cutting action will outlast the alum. oxide 10 to 20 to one. I think all the big companies have developed these new grits-Norton-3m-- they are colour coded Blue or a purplish blue. Let me check around the shop if I have any in stock, if not I will check with my supplier and get back to you. ---Geo.
     
  4. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    Thanks for checking for me. I'm always interested in speeding up the process. :)

    I've never had my paper clog yet (36 grit), but the longer life sure seems like it would be nice.
     
  5. viking north
    Joined: Dec 2010
    Posts: 1,868
    Likes: 94, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 1146
    Location: Newfoundland & Nova Scotia

    viking north VINLAND

    Ok my friend got that info for you--It's SIA Abrasives --pinkish/purplish colour coded --according to my fiberglass supplier-- Burnside Fiberglass- Burnside Industrial Park, Dartmouth Nove Scotia (Phone 902-481 8149) This line was specifically manufactured for Glass work. They sell alot of it to the boatbuilders here. There no doubt are products from other manufacturers but from my experience it's does one heck of a job.--Geo.
     

  6. Pylasteki
    Joined: Apr 2008
    Posts: 74
    Likes: 3, Points: 8, Legacy Rep: 42
    Location: North Carolina

    Pylasteki Junior Member

    Fastest thing I've found, other than an 8 inch mud hog...

    Get some 3M marine Hookit velcro that is 4 1/2 inches wide. Spray contact adhesive and put that on your board. The 3m Flat boards suck. The flexible ones are ok...

    Put 40 or 80 grit Mirka Abranet HD which is a velcro backed sanding mesh that comes on a roll. 4 1/2 inch wide.


    For flat things, 3/4 plywood and a straight spine 3 inches or so tall of straight grained seasoned wood screwed to it is the ticket. Double check the bottom surface with straight edges, and on small boards use a piece of sandpaper glued to a known flat surface... saw table, surface plate... to joint the bottom to be totally flat. You can average out of surface with a bent board, but you'll drive yourself batty trying to smooth out a flat surface, particularly if it has inside corners if the bottom of the board looks like a banana.
     
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