transom repair opinions

Thanks for the tool tips, i'll make a HF trip for some disposable tools.

I got a good grasp of this now. I spent some more time reading the archives.

Yeah i see the temptation of the pourables but to me it looks like 10x the work also trying to tooth in that 1.5" gap.

I also see how i could go in from the inside now as well (cut maybe a foot or two back into the well), although it's super tight in a 4-5" area trying to cut the inside transom glass between the stringer and well side. More fairing too, more obvious gelcoat mismatch, but doable, if this was a long term boat that could allow access to touch up a few things. But stringers are good, some other interior wood not 100% i'm sure but it all passes the hammer tests and will last surely a few more years at least (in which i won't own this).

Haven't cut yet =) but still leaning towards from the outside given the above items. It would seem more ok on this style back end than say a whole 8 foot transome being replaced. Inside of the 4" flange you're only talking about 2.5'x 1' deep area

I''m wondering though about the flange in this pic, that purple line is 4" in..it's awefully close to the existing outboard holes...5" in i'm on the bottom holes, 3" in less flange, i'm wondering if i should be concerned with that...I know there *shouldn't* be flex there but still...seems close to where the cut joint is going to be.

 

Once you replace the core and bond the exterior skin back on, you'll redrill the mount holes (which should be bonded anyway), so no issues with the cut being that close., you'll be making new laminate in these locations anyway, so it'll be plenty strong enough.

 

This is a little side tracking before i work on the transom this week.

Par or anyone know of any tricks on this scrupper? It's a wth to me. I'm not even sure i could get my hand back there to thread on new scrupper nut much less hose clamps without cutting or some jerry rigging.

Just considered changing the hoses since they're 10 years old, look ok so maybe i'll just leave them considering the inaccessibility. I'm just curious if anyone has dealt with something like this before and if there's some obvious method or different style scrupper i'm missing.

 

If you leave them, you can pretty much bet on a leak. What does it drain?

 

those are cockpit drains, this is just a deckboat so it's not like i'm fishing offshore or anything. Still...the hoses being 10 years old kinda bug me.

I could cover them while i'm working on the back and relocate them somewhere accessible i guess too.

 

my bad. i spoke too soon, as inaccessible as it looks from the top i climbed back there and can get a hand there and a stubby screwdrive so i'll replace that stuff too. Dang i thought for sure i had climbed back there before and couldn't get to it.

 

This is why you go to the local high school and get a coop kid a few days a week. The shop needs to be cleaned, the bilges scrubbed, raw 'glass ground down with 24 grit and obnoxiously difficult parts tended too. They'll hate you, but appreciate the money and experience. They'll never again go into the marine industry, as a result of their exposure to you, probably never buy a boat as a result of your experiences with project, but you don't have to crawl through a bilge, looking for a leaking through hull belly deep in oil, grime and muck. Personally, this why I thought you had children in the first place.

 

You're not kidding! Every week i ask myself is this the day i put it on craigslist for free =)

Probably if not for an excuse to buy tools i would..I don't even like powerboats that much and have no time to fish yet =) ...gotta work on something though house projects take too long.

Can't convince the 5 yr old to climb back there so i'll be replacing those with a access panel on each transom side, or i'll be cutting the top motor well this week and going about the transom repair that way.

 

Hi Par, all

Par, I think this is where you say:

"I didn't say to cut THAT end"

"Don't believe everything some stranger tells you on the internet"

"DIY discouragement successful"

I went ahead the proctology route. I was able to get to the scruppers and everything else so this seemed easiest. Was a bit second guessing when i saw how thick that outside glass is but oh well.

it's a combination of waterlogged and mulch, and unfortunately a pretty good green solid pieces down at the bottom. You were right about the staples (of course).

This is all i had time for today, first 2 3/4 sheets are out in the center and on the flat i can see back glass here and there, bit of digging in the sides. Sides are really rotten so I don't think i'll have that much problem digging those out the 4" flange....bottom is going to be a b@#h it's pretty green.

Gotta go hunt for some tools tonight, I'll probably check out the planer and some more chisels. I was wondering how one of those multi tools would do for getting the big stuff inside the 4" flange?


I have some air tools but they'll mostly come in handly for finishing the inside of the flange i think (sanders, mini belt sander, disc sander, angle grinders with flap disks,etc).

 

Hmmm. Maybe a narrow belt sander or how you call it in English .. pen sander? .. would do?

I am considering tools like these:
http://www.procatec.net/sdh30lr.jpg
http://www.procatec.net/kuvat/bl16l.jpg

 

Hi Iiki,

That 2nd one, the belt sander is what I'm thinking on using too. I'm not so sure how it will do though getting the majority of the wood out of the flange, i'd think it would be ideal for the straglers and surface preparation. Have one to try but i need to order some belts for it.

Die grinder or pencil ringer may be helpful too.

For the wood that still green at the bottom i might try the small electric chain saw route.

I think a 1" chisel improvised in a pipe to lengthen it will get my sides out pretty easy, they're pretty mushy.

 

A multi tool can be a great help on those flanges as well as the bottom, where resin has pooled. Use a fine blade and don't get greedy, as it'll cut laminate as easily as rotten wood. A reciprocating saw will work too, but you'll bend a few blades before it's over. I like air chisels too. Sneak up on it, shaving a little, then a little more, etc. You'll get, though you'll invent a few new curse word combinations in the process.

 

Down to a thin ply area on the flat, and the meat in the flanges. flanges are tough. Used a chisel, steady hand and some patience on the flat ...not too bad. The flanges are a freakin bear, i need to get some meat out of there, will try a few things tomorrow.

There is a section top left by the ob hole with no glass, get's pretty thin up there as opposed to the bottom. I'll dig up the old threads on this i assume i'll be re-enforcing that back with an additional layer, but that's premature..gotta get the flange meat out.

 

Got through the meat, on a time crunch to get this done so I went with the chainsaw. Worked!, i got a bit more with that tomorrow then i'lll move to a bit gentler tools.

 

Progress called on the account of rain...will get moving again monday.