Traditional Build with Corecell

fallguy; as Groper said you should plan ahead as much as possible before you start.
This is why I am saying to do a small scale infusion and vacuum bag job eg. bunk tops now so that you can make informed decisions based on your experience.

For infusion you want a resin system with a Viscosity at 25'C no greater than 350 mPas.
and a gel time of 60min (100g at 25'C) would be a good choice.
Also be aware that when choosing different hardeners that give you short or long gel times you also could be trading of final laminate properties for this processing convenience.

To infuse a panel close to your dimension above is VERY EASY.
Say 10 x 1m panel with 600gsm bottom laminate and 800gsm top, you will need roughly 20kg resin for the job. The time to infuse the entire panel, ie. time to suck in the 20kg resin into the job would only take around 5 minutes for a grooved core and 10-15 minutes for transfer media. Job temperature, ambient temp, resin viscosity will of course influence these times.
The total cost of building this panel would be very much the same for all three processes, open laminating, vac bagging and infusing.
But the panel weights will be different, 45kg for hand laminating, 41kg grooved core infusion, 37kg transfer infusion and vacuum bag job depends on the vacuum level you choose ~40kg.

For flat panel production infusion is the cleanest, healthiest and easiest in my opinion and will give you the best properties as well.

 

1 US Gallon Epoxy weighs about 9 pounds (to assist in calc's above)

 

If anyone is still interested. I built my first two panels last nite. Some good news and some bad. My panels released from the mold, but the sheet I used for the rebates is a permanent part of the assembly, so the parts are junk.

Where can I find 2mm polyethylene sheet? Is that the same as plexiglass?

 

Stick them on a table saw with the blade retracted to depth of plexiglass thickness. Use a dado blade to make it faster.

 

No attempts will be made to save them. I can use these parts in a non-structural element of the boat. I used vinyl and the epoxy bonded better to the vinyl than to the glass. When I work real hard, I can remove some of the vinyl (under 1mm square at a time), but the epoxy is just pulling away from the glass and it is almost impossible. These will be made into shelving or something else.

What am I supposed to use? plexiglass? I need to make like 400 feet of rebates. I just need the experts to tell me the right stuff to use Jorge. Thanks.

 

Ok, then use PVC sheet but you still have to wax it.

 

Any reason lexan won't work?

 

I haven't tried but you know, you can just put some of that shiny clear wrapping tape over it and epoxy won't stick to that. Wrap the edges too.

 

interesting idea...I was hoping to pick up a couple of millimeters...I went and paid 70 bucks for a sheet of lexan, but seemed costly. I might just tape all my pieces...thank you

 

I used gorilla tape on the same vinyl pieces and it all parted! Cost me 20 bucks for a lot of gorilla tape. Thanks. The lexan is going back to the store, although I might need some lexan for windows later if this goes okay the rest of the way.

 

The actual build of this boat, after following advice given here and working with the designer, Richard Woods, can be seen here.

Woods Skoota 32DM - Bateau2 - Builder Forums https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495