Tiny nicks

Here's a topic, or maybe better said a problem I have not heard much about.

It pertains to the repair of a gelcoated grp surface, that may have tiny nicks or scrapes. The epoxy based fillers are so much harder than the surface being repaired, sometimes you cause your self more more by wearing out the area around the repair. I'm talking about tiny little imperfections that I know will show like they as basketballs after final glossing out.

I have been using an evercoat product called formula 27, a waterproof, marine specific, polyester based product, but even this stuff is a pain to mix, and seems harder than the gelcoat. It doesn't go on to small areas easily. and you have to put on ten times the size of the nick in order to push the product into the affected area.( such a pain ). Are there any creams or fillers that come pre-mixed and can be applied with your finger?

thanks


Grady

 

they used to have stuff we used called "akiemee" < spelling,,,,, i used to use awl-fair. but ya have to mix 1-1. it takes 24 hours ta kick,is hard,,but NOT too hard, is easy to sand and NOT burn through all around it.,,,,,are the imperfections small enough for like some high build or ultra high build?,, but those are hard to sand in small areas too.

 

no easy fix

Hey Much, My experiences with high build have not been all that positive. And I haven't used either awl-fair or ultra high build yet. I've been trying to keep a lid on expenses.

Like I stated earlier the nicks are minute, and only come to light after very close attention during final post priming inspection. But it seems so effortless to fill these. Then after the process is in its third or forth stage, you begin to wonder if it was worth it. Being a perfectionist, I really couldn't sleep at night knowing the the nicks, scratches and dents no matter how small were allowed to live on my watch. With all the labor involved in the refinishing, it seems pointless for it not be as good as it can be. ( as near perfect as possible ).

Just hoping there was an easier solution.


Thanks

Grady

 

o.k,,,,,,heres a bad word,,,,,,,,,b,,o,,n,,,d,,o,.. i know its like a hate word,, but it works really good for little little things,,you gotta make sure you "scratch" the nicks,,use a sharp awl or anything poky< hows that word>,,but dont add to much hardner,,, i have never used it till i got down here, and do some body work on cars,,i wont use it for anything bigger then a quarter,and just a "skim" coat,,,but its "porous", but they make a "glaze" that kinda runny,,and you skim that on and it fills those pinholes,,,,and you can get this stuff cheap cheap
after ya read this,,heh,, delete it all so noone knows i said these caca words

 

Go to a sherwin williams automotive paint store and but a qt. of their ultra fill high build primer (have it mixed close to color of hull.) w/hardener, prep areas,spray imperfection then block sand when cured.This stuff is great, flexible fills like a ******* and gets hard.Got a nice thick cup size sample in my toolbox.Then cover with that ******* awlgrip.Do not be afraid of carstuff.

 

riverking,,,,are you stalking me?? hehe,,, i think you either the "freddie crugar" of awl grip,, that or you got stock in SW hahaha

 

My replys are to grady

 

fill

So you are filling grp before topcoating? Sorry you're post seemed a little unclear, I wasn't sure if you just meant repairing the gelcoat.

If you are painting, just prime it up and once you sand use a automotive 2part polyester.

Make sure you let the epoxy primer cure off, if it is epoxy. There is side reaction between the peroxide and amine/epoxy that can stop it curing (both coatings).

Make sure you block sand it with a small wood block. Do not da it till you've blocked it out. Use the 3M sanding guide powder before you block, re-apply the powder then da with finer paper to finish. Seems obvious to say, but, make sure you let the filler cure. Otherwise you'll be sanding something rubbery in a surface of something cured ie you'll make an island.

If the nicks are big you just to fill twice. Apply the filler 2 times whilst wet. Once, then at 90degree to squeeze into hole.

If the hole is deep, to prevent it catching area at interface, you have to fill 1st one half of hole then whilst wet the 2nd half. ie fill from middle out. Don't just blob it onto top. This will just trap air underneath and squeeze the filler out - if you are lucky. At worst the fill will only hold on the sides and when you paint it will come loose.

Once you perfect this. Give me a call. We're short of painters in Europe (14guys tomorrow spraying superstructure on 120m)

 

stevie nicks

forgot.

3M used to do a nitrocellulose 1part filler in tube like toothpaste. It's ok for pinholes. Don't use it for anything bigger.

Use a decent automotive product. (or De Ijssel from NL, which I don't imagine you get - even come with white curing agent so you don't get any "bleed" issues with red/green peroxide curing agents.)