Throttle Conversion from fly by wire to cable? Suggestions

Discussion in 'OnBoard Electronics & Controls' started by yachtnetwork, Mar 1, 2015.

  1. yachtnetwork
    Joined: Apr 2012
    Posts: 25
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    Location: Florida

    yachtnetwork Junior Member

    Ok guys I am looking for other ideas or perhaps suggestions here.

    I need to convert the stock throttle actuator on a project to a more basic 3300 Uflex style cable system like found on most boats. We need to adapt the system and it will need to work with a 2' custom Mach 0 Ultraflex cable.

    Right now the range of movement (stroke) on the stock actuator is approx 7/8" from fully opened to fully closed. It will need to mount to the inside wall of a console where full forward is closed and full back is wide open.

    The cable that we have to work with has a range (stroke) of 3-1/2" from fully opened to fully closed. I am trying to figure out what the best way to make them work together is and make it look pretty. I had an idea of building a frame for the throttle actuator and somehow extending the actuator arm to coincide with the 3-1/2" stroke we have to work with on the throttle cable, however I am looking for any other input or suggestions. Pics attached of what we have to work with. The actuator is mounted on a junk piece of starboard so you can see if easier.

    Also I will save anyone the trouble. We do NOT have the option of just using a squeeze trigger throttle or anything like that. We need to use an all in one control box throttle and shift unit to coincide with the rest of the boat.

    Thanks for any input.
     

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  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    Some control boxes have several holes in the actuator arm to set the throw length.
     
  3. yachtnetwork
    Joined: Apr 2012
    Posts: 25
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    Location: Florida

    yachtnetwork Junior Member

    Unfortunately this control box only has 1 so I have to try and accommodate it the best I can. We thought about drilling our own hole farther up the control arm however it would interfere with the motion of the control arm and the pin that holds it in would bind.
     
  4. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    An arm extension would work fine. I have done that with transmissions to adjust for the proper throw. There is very little force applied to an actuator.
     

  5. yachtnetwork
    Joined: Apr 2012
    Posts: 25
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    Location: Florida

    yachtnetwork Junior Member

    I think we are going to CNC a front and back plate out or starboard perhaps and then put in a control arm that works at a 4 to 1 ratio in a sliding slot. As you said there is almost no stress on the actuator. We have also removed the return spring on it as its pointless with the tension that the control box already has and no throttle creep.
     
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