The Cherry project continues

Discussion in 'Sailboats' started by WildCherry, Apr 16, 2005.

  1. WildCherry
    Joined: Jan 2005
    Posts: 35
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: bama

    WildCherry Junior Member

    Well, heres some more shots. Int is basically done. just need to glass the last bunk cap in place. Oh the engine box. I cant forget it. Its 45% constructed as I type.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Jeff
    Joined: Jun 2001
    Posts: 1,368
    Likes: 71, Points: 58, Legacy Rep: 923
    Location: Great Lakes

    Jeff Moderator

    Looking good! ... makes me really want to get away from the computer and into the workshop tommorrow :)

    Love the photos - thanks for posting 'em and keep them coming!
     
  3. ath
    Joined: May 2005
    Posts: 51
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Marina Del Rey, CA

    ath Junior Member

    What kind of material are you using for the bulkheads?
     
  4. ebb
    Joined: May 2005
    Posts: 16
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Sonoma CA

    ebb Junior Member

    Mdo?

    Sign painter's plywood? If it is, the stuff I've seen is some of the best made fir plywood that can be found. Comes with a phenolic impregnated kraft paper surface on one or both sides. Must vary by manufacturer, but what I've seen and used is astonishingly beautiful plywood, considering the junk in the marketplace. Thicknesses vary, gotta watch it!
     
  5. ath
    Joined: May 2005
    Posts: 51
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Marina Del Rey, CA

    ath Junior Member

    "Well when i say changing the bulkheads. I mean. Getting a zawsaw, cuting out where they are glassed to the hull. grinding them level and clean. then replaceing with a new foam and glass copy of the original."

    Cut this from his other post... Who makes it? Where can I get it Southern California?
     
  6. ebb
    Joined: May 2005
    Posts: 16
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Sonoma CA

    ebb Junior Member

    plywood

    Not 'my' thread, but since I'm here. There is also 'solid' phenolic plywood you might look into called maranti. Made from unknowable varities of philippine mahogany and sold under the names of aquaply and hydroply. One is more expensive ( you could build a rudder from that stuff) than the other - the cheaper one sometimes has top veneers that are blond like those in the interior shots. Source would be hardwood suppliers. It's heavier more dense than fir.

    MDO is sometimes used for highend concrete forms, so concrete guys ought to have it. Maybe even home deport. but watch the quality and actual thickness, we have pieces that have no voids at all and seem to be even veneers of all heart. Amazing! Lumber suppliers aimed at contractors might have it, you want the stuff that is 'papered' on both sides.

    One great thing about this expensive stuff is that it stays flat, doesn't curl, so bulkheads, settee backs, bottoms and shelves always have a reference fit even after cut to shape. MDO makes laying on an enamel finish a breeze - no sanding no cracking and no footballs.
     
  7. ath
    Joined: May 2005
    Posts: 51
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Marina Del Rey, CA

    ath Junior Member

    Thanks EBB for the info on plywood. It is definately helpful.

    All of the interior and deck on my boat was built with a marine grade/mahagony veneer. But a lot of it had rotted over the years in various places (the deck is fine). Chain plate leaked and all of the stantion and pulpit through hulls that had a plywood backing rotted and leaked. Additionally, it looks like the boat may have sat in a couple of feet of water for some time. The electrical swith plate just dropped off from the rotten wood. Then, after I began to tear all of this plywood out, I found termites (probably blown in from the hot desert Santa Ana winds) had eaten out much of the galley top. Besides the interior ply, the boat is solid. So, when I saw this thread and the pictures and the mention of foam core, I became interested in a lighter/stronger material I could use to replace the old ply. I thought he might be using foam core sheets with glass tops http://www.boatdesign.net/articles/foam-core/? So far my search for a retailer has come up empty.
     
  8. ebb
    Joined: May 2005
    Posts: 16
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Sonoma CA

    ebb Junior Member

    foam cores?

    'Lo ath,
    Foam Core sheets not my experience, but must be pricey. Cherry photos could be that kind of thing. Have seen a dense (solid) foam material but wouldn't call it weight saving. And I wouldn't trust anything but pvc closed cell foam in marine work,

    Sounds like you have a wonderful project there! Can only get better! I ended up gutting much of my Ariel but did keep most of the main bulkhead and two cockpit bulkheads - keeping the settees in place as work surfaces and as original factory level for references, but they are about to go. The most disagreeable job in restoring an old plastic boat is grinding old paint and polyester tabbing off the inside. BAD. Truly awfull.

    The aquaply stuff is so strong and stiff (1/4" is 5 ply for example) that you could save weight by using thinner stuff on vertical and horizontal surfaces. And still be able to attach things to it anywhere, which I don't think you could do on foam core. Below the waterline, what weight saving is necessary? Of course not trying to persuade you of anything, but the fancy plywood is pretty hitech too. And being phenolic thru and thru is waterproof.

    www.tricelcorp.com/marine/marine_tech.htm
    It's honeycomb - but gives us an idea of all the nice tricky stuff we have to do with composite sheet
    www.worldpanel.com/Marineplywoodsspeciality.htm
    has a pvc core panel
     
  9. ath
    Joined: May 2005
    Posts: 51
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Marina Del Rey, CA

    ath Junior Member

    A project it is. I now realize that I'll have to drop the mast to replace the main bulkhead where the chain plates leaked. Ugh! I had planned to cruise the islands this Summer but I just wouldn't feel safe. Not too many years ago I would have taken off as is. But after seeing a brand new 26' (don't know the make but an expensive little racer) pitchpole, turtle and sink in less than 5 mins during the Wednesday night Sunset Series, I've grown more cautious.

    On a side note; I have a grinder but what sort of fitting should I use to grind old paint and glass that attached old bulheads etc back to the glass (as in above picks).
     
  10. ebb
    Joined: May 2005
    Posts: 16
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Sonoma CA

    ebb Junior Member

    grinder

    Got the smallest Makita plugin angle grinder. You know I think it is 3 1/2" rather than 4. Anyway you get these wheels that are made of angled stacks of grit 'paper'. Eat thru polyester like block romano. The idea is that as you grind more fresh grit is exposed. Makita makes 'em, expensive. You can find cheaper skinnier ones at OSH. Find real tuf ones at local welding supply. Harbor Freight has them too.

    Cheap disks are good because it's easy then to throw on a new crisp - and flat - disk when you need to! Altho I've gone four years on the Makita eating glass dust, H.F has those throwaway power tools, probably pick one up for $15! The M. is a nice tool.

    Now as to what to wear when grinding, That's a whole other kettle of fish.
     
  11. WildCherry
    Joined: Jan 2005
    Posts: 35
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: bama

    WildCherry Junior Member

    well its pvc closed cell foam. 1/2inch It has a layer of biaxle-stich mat on the both sides. should have used 2 layers. but weight, and cost issue.. The foam is around 45$ a sheet which is 24 inches by 48 inches. so very small and hella expensive. I went through 55 gallons of resin and about 50 sheets of foam, 4 rolls of glass. The total int project was close to 12k in material. The stuff is super easy to work with. If you dont mind itching. My project has taken me a year and 7 months since I bought the boat. The first 9 months spent on the bottom and hull. With about 6 months of peel /dry time. Its now sailing. The best thing is it floats. Nothing is cracking when loaded up.
    Now Im makeing the sails. fun fun. I hope the plotter doesnt screw up, or my schedule is shot.
     
  12. WildCherry
    Joined: Jan 2005
    Posts: 35
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: bama

    WildCherry Junior Member

    As for tools. I used a 7 inch makita grinder,, a 4 inch makita, and a 6 inch porter cable da. The 4 inch was my tool of choice. I also used a zawsaw. for removing the big nasty stuff. the 7 inch for grinding things flat ,level and clean. the 4inch for detail and cutting work. and the DA for finish sanding. I used a jig and skill saw for cutting all the bulkheads and berths. good tools make the job alot easier.
     
  13. WildCherry
    Joined: Jan 2005
    Posts: 35
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: bama

    WildCherry Junior Member

    more shot painted
     

    Attached Files:

  14. ebb
    Joined: May 2005
    Posts: 16
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Sonoma CA

    ebb Junior Member

    Great photos

    Capt Cherry,
    You know the old adage: A boat is a hole in the water lined with fiberglass and foam core panels into which you pour money!

    Good luck you guys and may all yer days of eating dust be gone soon :!:
     

  15. ath
    Joined: May 2005
    Posts: 51
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Marina Del Rey, CA

    ath Junior Member

    Core vs. Plywood

    Wow! Expensive. And it has been hard to find out here too. Back to plywood for me. Thanks very much for replying. I'll put up some of my pix on a different thread.

    Nice job by the way!
     
Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.