The AWLGRIP Knowledge challenge

lost friend

Has anyone heard from "THE 1", I hope all is well.
It's quite possible that there has been some word on him that I missed.

 

The last time I had a video chat w/ Jim he was having major family problems. He said he was moving his family to a fishing camp in the woods of Maine. I have tried many ways to contact him but it is obvious that he doesn't want to be contacted, so I have respected his wishes. He knows how to contact us.

 

New challenge

Hey Guys, Boy it's been awhile. I've been busy fishing and working to pay for new gear and fuel. I have been active on a couple of other forums as well.
My finish now on its third season, and it looks great. The Rub (pun intended) is that my fenders have caused a slight dull spot in two locations. Awlcraft 2000, The paint I used is supposed to be repair friendly. The color is Oyster White and even though it wasn't recommended I clear coated the hull sides. with the hopes of being able to buff the life back into the finish after 6 or 8 seasons (not yet necessary ).

Anyway to my questions, Has anyone had any luck buffing Awlcraft. I have noticed it has gain popularity, could this mean that the manufacturers claims of repair ability be true? And if you have buffed it, was there a positive outcome or mixed reviews. What method did you use?

Not sure what my real world options are, but here's what I feel my option could be.

1, leave it alone (not bad enough to worry about)
2, Wet sand damaged areas (w/3200) and buff w/foam pad and finesse-it
3, Wet sand entire hull and buff
4, Wet sand entire hull and re apply clear coat
5, Sand (w/320) and repaint

Here's a pic of the rig without her enclosure but does show the fenders and the areas they affect.

Thanks for all the help I received on this forum, Lots of great people with tons of experience and the willingness to share. Great forum.

 

Problem?

Just wondering, this last post didn't seem to populate to the new post area.


Can anyone else see this?



Please reply as a test.


Thanks

 

Hi Grady,
It is showing up for me in the "new posts" and "most recent" lists right now. It won't show up for you in the "New Posts" until someone else replies (which it should following this reply).

 

Many Thanks

Hey Jeff thanks for that.

 

Hey Grady....LEAVE IT ALONE. machine abrading your nice awlgrip job with compound or hand wet and dry, simply reduces the whole one year old Grip' job to a huge 5 year old "fender scratch" surface.

A gentle " hand " polish with a soft towel and one of the many products sold in marine stores will hide the fender abrasion area behind a new shine....... for a few weeks .

Best to keep the boat from laying on its fenders with a laid mooring to spring off the dock or whatever system in applicable for your situation. Also best to use fenders with two lines, hung horizontally, to keep then from swinging...sawing, your paint surface ...back and forth a thousand times a day.

Also a set of fender covers is helpful. Naked rubber fenders get burned by sun UV , become sticky, hold dirt and deposit sticky rubber on your virgin Grip'

 

...yep, fender covers for sure, make them out of old track pants, cut off the legs and sew em up as fender covers, works well, and very cheap.

 

In the Buff

Thanks for the replies Guys, I realize that hind sight is 20/20. There will be covers on those fenders come spring.
Has anyone seen a buffed awlcraft job, just really curious as to the effects on the longevity of finish, hardness or gloss right after the process. I may not ever buff this boat but would like to know its an option. Because maybe I should have used awlgrip instead. The finish would be harder and gloss or shall I say the distinction of reflexion would be greater.

I know there are guys taking buffing wheels to these finishes, right wrong or indifferent. Just want to share their experience.

Thanks again for your thoughts.

Regards

 

...yes, any linear polyurethane can be buffed, but remember buffing compound is cutting compound, only not as abrasive, so it abrades......you will be loosing paint.

The finish is done with clear coat top coatings, so they compound very well, using the finwst of finishes will not be that detrimental to the final job, but leave buffing till it is needed in time, a good hand wax finish is the go for now, even if the surface is a bit dimpled, live with it, protect it wil wax and it will still be there decades from now.

 

Sure...I buff Awlgrip all the time...and again and agian and again......once you loose the glass hard surface shine, the only way to get it back is with a buffer every month.

Before you break out a power tool, buffer.....do the area by hand and see if you can get good results. Hand polishing is more localized and less destructive to the paint film in adjacent areas.

Unless they have changed the formulation, Clear coating on top of white is a bad choice.... it turns yellow with UV exposure so its only a one season fix.

And since your proud of your Grip job and since the boats small and painted white , it might be just as easy to 320 sand the whole boat on a saturday, give her a good wash down then a quick respray...or re roll and brush on Sunday.
Can you spray outside in the US uncovered ?

 

Hi Grady

Yep, It's been a while; at least a year since my last post. I sold the Beniteau to some rich Aussie and the last I saw her she was on a freighter heading South West. Your boat still looks great and I agree with everyone, don't mess with the chemical seal that has kept your boat looking this good this long. Wait another year, sand a little and re-paint. Hell your an expert now!

Good fishing
Kap

 

Did you get a good price for your Beni Jerry?

 

Nice to catch up with old friends

Paul!! Great to hear from you. Of course you never get what you think you should when you sell a boat that you worked on for 6 years. People don’t consider sweat equity, but I had to sell, being an Architect in these times has been tough, and I couldn't afford the Marina fees any longer.

After 25+ years of spending week-ends working on boats and now not having one to work on I have been slowly going mad and driving my wife crazy. I even tried taking that course in custom fishing pole making from your neighbor, Mud Hole, but all I could think of is now I have a neat custom fishing pole, but no boat to use it. The C.F.O. finally said that I have to build another one, but it has to be in the garage, no more 38 footers, no more marina fees. I really liked the Herrishoff 12 1/2, and I bought the plans, and built all the molds, but after careful study I had to admit to myself that I was in over my head. It is a difficult build to do correctly, and I have been messing with boats for almost 30 years.
I then looked at your design of the small sail, and many others, but considering all the limitations; Grandkids, size, type of construction---I think I have settled on an Arch Davis 17' lapstrake design. He works with a plywood/ CNC shop in Riviera Beach, 1/2 hour from my house. I haven't bought the plans yet, but it seems the safest, simplest, most well thought out traditional looking design that will lend itself well to interior millwork customization.

We still are planning to move up closer to your world, but further east around Palm Bay, if my boss will ever let me retire, I have been tying for the past 4 years!

Feels good to talk to you again, and if you have any thoughts about the build I would be interested in what you have to say. The Herrishof molds are still in the garage and I haven’t bought the Arch Davis plans yet.

Jerry

 

Look at Graham's LapWing design. I talked with him a few months ago and he was hoping to have a CNC kit soon. http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com/lapwing.htm