The 18 Foot SeaSled

Way to go. That looks very nice.

 

Working on the windshield corner posts. Trying to workout the final deckhouse layout. Those three stringers are cut to 1/2” so they can fair nicely with the lines of the boat.

also I have been making progress on the decking and have been cutting lots of stringers and planking. All the little crap that needs doing… Also working the stability calculations on the computer… taking awhile because I lofted the frames and didn’t really make drawings. This has resulted in the various frames not exactly matching what I think they are.

 

Does anyone know what this unusual feature inside the tunnel is for on this SeaSled “miss lakeside” ?

 

That's a sneezeguard. A wave can trap air inside the tunnel. The air blows back out the tunnel, spraying water. The tunnel sneezes.
Generally sea sleds are dry boats, except when the tunnel sneezes. Then there's water on the windshield. So that feature catches the sneeze, then they are dry boats all the time.

 

So basically a spray rail for the bow.

 

I am fairly certain that the Canadians on this forum CAN'T relate but it has been insufferably hot of late. My garage is only 90 F at 100% humidity but it feels much worse. However I was able to grind and do some small repairs near the inside of the transom. Then I made a template and started putting on the chine portion planking of the port side bow area. I also had some various annoying personal things to deal with but thankfully that is over now. I mixed up some 404 and 407 filler and made a nice peanut butter for a first stage temporary bond then I will do some fiberglass tape work.

 

71°f, 50% humidity, 5 mph breeze. Beautiful blue sky.

 

I hate/envy you.

 

Mixed up some Phenolic Filler into Epoxy to fair out the topsides. Eventually that chunk of teak will get epoxied into the transom. For those who were discussing the transom earlier, I am still planning on doing some more tabbing and reinforcement but I think that it gives you a better idea of how it is glued into the boat.

The Black is the 1/2" Coosa Bluewater 26, Next is the Douglas Fir Framing Epoxied to the CoosaBoard, Next is the Support for the Gunwale Cap?. I then marked and cut this down so that the Teak Transom Cap would fit nicely into this space. The idea is to to give a bit of brightwork to the stern while allowing most of the boat to just be painted. The teak looks like hell because its been coated with multiple sealer coats of UV Clear Epoxy, once the boat is finished I will probably varnish this properly with a nice finish in a dust free environment.

 

Probably Germain to the sea sled since i use so much of it...

I always read that an epoxy cart is a great idea to move it to where you need it. However, I don't really have room for such an extravagance. I quickly sketched out this idea, I am just curious if anyone thinks I need more on it. I have a spot for gloves, stir sticks, filler tubes, and the cans and hardeners will go on top with a flip up drip tray (starboard maybe). Any thoughts, I kind of feel like i might want a paper dispenser but I don't want it to get too high or wide. maybe on the outside of the cabinet door if I fit one.

 

Started grinding and fixing some missing epoxy fillets on the Port side between frames #1 and #2. Lots of small details but it’s progressing slowly.

Basically, I am going over most of my bonded hull planking (3/8" ply) and making sure there are not gaps or places where there is no fillet. Don't want water or dirt getting into my wood or framing, since I am not in a hurry, I am trying to take the time to get each section finished correctly.

 

Got the forward cabin floor installed and filleted and making a template for a new cabinet outline. Revising my layout to be able to be weighed to appease the peanut gallery.

 

So I cut the notches for the deck house. Would’ve been hard to line up without lasers and level.

 

Did a quick drawing of what I think will work for the new cabin top. I am going to make a mockup to check the sightlines from the helm. However this seems to be what will give me acceptable headroom of about 5' in the forward galley / nap space. (Hole for chucking' seabags when leaving port in a hurry after pissing off the locals.) I wanted to keep the same consistency of 8' spacing on the timbers but they just didn't seem to lay right on the drawing. Now that I am typing, I think that a mockup will probably be the best way to go. Keeping any topweight to an absolute minimum.

 

Made a small mock-up of the front cabin deck post curve. Should be the ticket once I get the for’wd curve established it’ll be easier to bring the lines back aft and make it look decent.