The 18 Foot SeaSled

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Darkzillicon, Jan 23, 2023.

  1. Darkzillicon
    Joined: Jan 2023
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    Darkzillicon Senior Member

    So I guess I’ll post a small update. I finished epoxying in one of the ceiling light mounts. I’m probably going to have to work on this area in the future due to its proximity to the galley. Goal is to have a number of task focused lights and less general illumination as I really enjoy boating at night.

    I am also slowly glassing in the hull planking from the opposite side of the hull. This is the area I was planking the underside of in the previous post.

    pretty much all that’s left as far as the hull is more planking on the bow and some tabbing and increased structure on the transom.

    IMG_0949.jpeg 747C89E5-3260-4E27-A974-6E90CFD6D217.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. Darkzillicon
    Joined: Jan 2023
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    Darkzillicon Senior Member

    So the weather in florida has cooled considerably thanks to the many hurricanes we have recently received. So I’ve started to work on the framing a bit more. The only stringer that was missing is in the starboard side at the chine level and it had a bit of twist that I needed force into the final shape so I’m happy to have completed. I also started to work my way down the starboard front side of the boat at the bow. IMG_0995.jpeg IMG_0991.jpeg IMG_1002.jpeg
     
  3. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    It may not be obvious in the photos. Are there limber holes on the framing?
     
  4. Darkzillicon
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    Darkzillicon Senior Member

    No im going to work then in afterwards i didn’t want the bilge to have any exposed wood so I’ll probably use the PVC pipe in epoxy method. I also don’t have a perfect water flow plan just yet with the “interesting bottom layout” of the sea sled. I’ll probably use the lowest point in the frames.

    in the first photo that’s the forward bulkhead which will be glassed and sealed up. I’m just trying to figure the best way to run electrical and such while it’s still accessible etc…
     
  5. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    An easy way for electric is to run conduit on both sides. You can later make a exit holes on the side of it for the wires to come out, or pre-install Tees where you already plan to have wires come out. There should be a fish line to pull the wires through. If you add wires later, you should attach a new fish line to the wires to be ready for future uses.
     
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  6. Darkzillicon
    Joined: Jan 2023
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    Location: Palm Beach

    Darkzillicon Senior Member

    IMG_0994.jpeg

    Finally able to get around to doing more of the bow planking. I also got some more 3/8 marine ply for the job. Doing lots of fussy fiberglass tabbing up in the cabin but trying to make progress on the bow as much as I can.

    IMG_0315.jpeg

    Filling in the little gaps and such as I go. Plan is to finish glassing the forward bulkhead interior then put the starboard bow plywood on the side. Then I’ll vacuum bag the bow fiberglass and fair it smooth.

    Slowly getting there. Also working on the helmsman layout for foul weather.
     
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  7. Darkzillicon
    Joined: Jan 2023
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    Darkzillicon Senior Member

    IMG_0547.jpeg

    Adding a pad for an antenna mount. Cabin roof is only 1/4” (5.2mm) thick so needs reinforcement where the fasteners will go. This will become coring material as it is glassed over. 3/8” thick Douglas fir plywood.
     
  8. Dave G 9N
    Joined: Jan 2024
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    Location: Lindstrom MN

    Dave G 9N Senior Member

    I am coming in a bit late to the party, but I did read through all 11 pages.

    It looks like you may not have finished planking the bow. So for what it's worth, you might consider carving some thicker solid wood in that area rather than trying to twist plywood. I planked up a file bottom on a Chesapeake Bay traditional design once under the tutelage of an experienced shipwright. The twist in the bow area was so severe that for the last foot or so the planks were pretty much... {can't recall, so say 4x4s for the sake of argument} sculpted into 3/4" thick spirals with spoke shave and drawknife. Just a thought. It wasn't difficult, and I am no sculptor. That patchwork quilt looks like it was a nightmare, but the glass will hold it together.

    The plans (thank you for the pdfs) seem to say that this is a developable surface, but there is scant evidence in your pictures that the plans were right about that. It wouldn't be the first time that the plans were off and the builder in the write up made some changes that were not disclosed. They did suggest laying it out on builders paper, which is too flimsy. I found that 'builder board' which is basically 48 mil (1.2 mm) cardboard is much better for temporary templates. FWIW: https://boatbuildercentral.com/StudyPlans/TX18_STUDY.pdf

    I never saw (missed?) the conclusion of the Coosa board and fiberglass vs plywood transom discussion. The Hull Truth link eventually went into a fair amount of detail on density and the poor quality of the plywood used for the initial test and there were some valuable insights related to the comparison. I could see where the argument could go either way for the substitution of Coosa/glass vs marine ply if you had gone into more detail. In other words, there is a lot to consider and I have not seen enough detail to judge.

    I used to live in Palm Bay. The comparison between central FL weather and Vancouver is entertaining. Having to post cure epoxy with heaters while you have to work to keep it cooler than that in the sun.
     
  9. Darkzillicon
    Joined: Jan 2023
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    Location: Palm Beach

    Darkzillicon Senior Member

    That's a lot to follow up on. (It may take me more than one reply.) Yes I am adding a lot more tabbing to the transom where the Coosa meets the Doug. Fir. Essentially the 3/8 Marine Ply is in the middle of two 18oz pieces of epoxy/glass. So core material but it makes it somewhat insulated, wood floats, templating, etc. You are right about the difficulty of the bow but it's largely complete at this point but the cardboard note is well taken. I do most of my templates with hot glue and builders shims so they flex quite a bit and i used the expensive hot glue that survives nuclear war. Right now, i am doing a lot of glass work on the interior which is quite hard with all the stringers and various tidbits that stick up but that's mostly done as well. I'm running out the door but I will follow up with more detail but I didn't want you to think this was a dead thread.
     
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  10. Darkzillicon
    Joined: Jan 2023
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    Location: Palm Beach

    Darkzillicon Senior Member

    Laminating inside of the bow. 17oz glass. Some definite challenges getting everything to line up but one of the next construction steps is to get these enclosed areas glassed and complete. This area is kept fairly empty as it needs to be lightweight to keep her from being down at the bow(s). I’m glassing the forward bulkhead to keep it strong but it will have a penetration to allow it to be used as a berth. (For feet) only electrical in this area should be for the bow light.trying to decide on a small tower or a low profile light. IMG_1413.jpeg
     

  11. Darkzillicon
    Joined: Jan 2023
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    Location: Palm Beach

    Darkzillicon Senior Member

    1. **Bow Planking Suggestion** – They suggest using thicker solid wood instead of twisting plywood in the bow area. Have you considered this approach?
    Yes, but as I mentioned in my previous post, it is mostly done. The strips of plywood are getting the job done, and since it is coring, I don't think the additional fairing is that big of a deal. However, I can tell you that it certainly isn't "developable" regular 3/8 marine plywood. It just won't make those crazy twists.

    2. **Experience with Planking Twists** – They mention sculpting thick planks into shape using hand tools under a shipwright’s guidance. Do you have thoughts on their method or experience with similar challenges?
    Not really, I could have done steaming or some other techniques, but it is small of the build that seems to be the issue maybe 8 square feet at the most extreme of the bend that is most of the problem. Once the fiberglass skin is on the plywood, it should a moot as it's not going anywhere, and it will be very solid and forced into those bends by glass.

    3. **Patchwork Planking** – They acknowledge the complexity of your planking but note that fiberglass should hold it together. Any comments on how it's performing?
    Yes, this is something that, if I had to do it over, I probably would have used speedstrip planking. However, this was my first boat build of this size, and I was not familiar with many of these building techniques. As a novice, you often worry about the cost of small items like speed strips or epoxy, not realizing that the total cost of the hull is what it is, and if you finish it, those costs are irrelevant. In hindsight, I probably would have saved more and built the hull in a more straightforward and direct manner using speed strips. The original hull was plywood with screws, which made it somewhat quicker to put together.

    4. **Plans vs. Reality** – They question whether the hull’s shape is truly a "developable surface" as stated in the plans, based on your pictures. Did you encounter discrepancies?
    I do not believe this is feasible. plans specified 3/8 inch Douglas fir plywood, which I used, but it was impossible to achieve some of the bends without cutting the wood despite using clamps and applying significant pressure. Although it is generally possible, I did modify the plans to add approximately six inches of freeboard, which might have affected the process. However, I doubt this was the issue, as the most and difficult bends are at waterline and below.

    5. **Template Material Suggestion** – They recommend "builder board" (48 mil cardboard) instead of builder’s paper for making temporary templates. Have you tried this or a similar material?
    No, I do agree it's a good idea, and I have used the builder shims with hot glue method, so I think it's a similar concept. However, eventually you do have to put the wood there, and short of cutting relief slots in the wood, it's tough to get it to bend that much without some serious clamps and persuasion.

    6. **Coosa vs. Plywood Transom Discussion** – They followed the Hull Truth thread but feel there wasn't enough detail in your discussion. Do you want to clarify or expand on your reasoning?
    Essentially, everyone is correct; I need a much more robust and stiff transom. I am unable to access it due to the constraints of my area, the garage, but eventually, I will add a sandwich of plywood, Coosa, and fiberglass as mentioned by others. The Coosa isn't as stiff, but it is a very popular transom addition as it doesn't rot. I think a sandwich with additional glass, Coosa, and plywood will give me the transom that I want, with the properties that I desire.

    7. **Weather Comparison** – They mention having lived in Palm Bay and compare Florida's heat to Vancouver’s epoxy-curing challenges. Any thoughts on their perspective?
    Yes, my epoxy sets quickly, but aside from laminating or using it as peanut butter from a piping bag, it is much of issue except in the hottest weather. It is amusing that the two people building sea sleds on this forum are on opposite sides the spectrum.
     
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