Thai Longtail/mudmotor With 6hp Lifan/honda

Discussion in 'DIY Marinizing' started by pistnbroke, Feb 26, 2009.

  1. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    Well if its a 14 ft boat you can aford the extra weight of the 6,5 and you will have more power as well as finding it easier to select a propeller ..if you drive straight off the shaft you need a left hand prop !!!
    Have a look at weedeater conversion particularly john tod postings and anything with photos
     
  2. Ed-H
    Joined: Mar 2010
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    Location: Montana

    Ed-H Junior Member

    Thrust bearing installation

    PB, did you have to machine a taper in drive tube to accept that tapered thrust bearing? I've only seen them used on car wheels, and they ride on tapered races. Also, is the entire bearing inside the drive tubing? I'm having a hard time envisioning how you used it at the prop end of the unit.
     
  3. Ed-H
    Joined: Mar 2010
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    Location: Montana

    Ed-H Junior Member

    One more question

    How thick is the wall of the 25mm galv. pipe?
     
  4. Ryan6x6
    Joined: Mar 2010
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    Location: utah

    Ryan6x6 Junior Member

    thanks for the advice the 6.5 greyhound engines also have push button starts as well. would be nice not to have to worry about pull starting the engine next fall.
     
  5. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    study the diagram I posted earlier and you can get taper roller bearing s in a whole range of sizes inc the outer thrust ......yes its all enclosed behind the oil seal so you can lubricate down the shaft from the engine end

    if I give you good information give me feedback if you dont like it dont
     
  6. Ed-H
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    Location: Montana

    Ed-H Junior Member

    PB, I did study the diag. and pretty much follow everything you have there. Since the drive tube, was not included in the diag., it appears you MUST have had to machined a taper on the inside of the tube for the bearing to run on. Am I correct in this deduction? thanks in advance.
     
  7. John O`Neal
    Joined: Sep 2007
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    Location: Lenexa Ks.

    John O`Neal Junior Member

    Ryan; I have both of those engines on my Thai longtails. They are very dependable an will give you good service for the money. I have a buddy in North Carolina who just bought a 6.5 hp model for $ 90 on sale at Harbor Freight. I paid $ 99 for mine in Kansas City. Those engines go on sale every couple of months so ask the store manager when the next sale will be. I would strongly suggest you go with the 6.5 hp model for a 14 ft. Jon boat. I own both size engines, on Thai longtails, so go with the 6.5 you will love the extra power. Look at the weedeater conversion thread on this forum and you will see both engines shown there on longtails. Good luck with your build. P.S. Get the electric start model if available.
     
  8. Ryan6x6
    Joined: Mar 2010
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    Location: utah

    Ryan6x6 Junior Member

    thanks for advice John o Neal I'm going to go with the 6.5 with the electric start. would galv. pipe be better than aluminum for the drive tube? i have been looking at Turn4Funs plans and think i can modify it to work with 3/4 inch drive shaft instead of 3/8. I'm going to start this project this weekend want to give myself plenty of time before next duck hunt.
     
  9. John O`Neal
    Joined: Sep 2007
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    Location: Lenexa Ks.

    John O`Neal Junior Member

    Ryan; I have three longtails one wih an aluminum tube(brushcutter conversion) and two with galvanized steel tubes (Thai manufactured) . They work equally well. I know that the tubes are also being manufactured from stainless. This one may boil down to personal preference. But in an attempt to answer your question. If it is not going to see extensive use in saltwater I would go with aluminum, simply because it`s lighter. Good luck with your build.
     
  10. Ryan6x6
    Joined: Mar 2010
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    Location: utah

    Ryan6x6 Junior Member

    Thanks John I'm in Utah we have both fresh water and salt water depending on were i hunt becouse of the great salt lake, sounds like galvanized is the way to go.What would the best size tube be for 3/4" drive shaft is the 1"x .125 wall thick tube still going to work or do i need to buy a better size tube most of the info on the thread is for the smaller brush cutter convertions? thanks
     
  11. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    3/4 drive shaft is far too big and heavy enough for a 200 hp outboard ..keep the weight down go for 3/8.....the 3/4 is 4 times as heavy !!!!!
     
  12. Ryan6x6
    Joined: Mar 2010
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    Location: utah

    Ryan6x6 Junior Member

    thanks was looking at John o Neals pic of 6.5 with u-joint and it looked like 3/4x3/4 u-joint with 3/4 drive shaft. who sells 3/4x3/8 u-joints McMaster-carr?
     
  13. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    you make up a sleeve 3/4 outside and 3/8 inside .....anyway john has gone away from using a u joint and has a stright link and tilts the motor ...just lilt and top up the highest oil filler hole
     
  14. Ryan6x6
    Joined: Mar 2010
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    Location: utah

    Ryan6x6 Junior Member

    thanks for the information pistnbroke it helps
     

  15. TerryKing
    Joined: Feb 2007
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    Location: Topsham, Vermont

    TerryKing On The Water SOON

    Anyone used these Harbor Freight "Greyhound" Motors??

    Hi Everyone, and thanks for such a great collaborative project...

    Has anyone used one of the 'Greyhound" AKA Chinese OHV engines from Harbor Freight? They are from 6.5 to 13 HP..

    Examples:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...go&logourl=greyhound_logo.jpg&brand=Greyhound

    (Others below)

    I know I can get these delivered to my backwoods in Vermont...

    Thanks!
     
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