Temporarily install running rigging onto cleats?

Due to a short time frame before a wooden boat festival that I'll be sailing to in a few weeks, I was wondering if anyone has any advice in regards to the idea of rigging the main sail such that there is a triangular block and tackle traveler setup.

The traveler for the main was originally on the stern deck, right behind the tiller. However, I have found some rot in the deck and am in the midst of fixing that. It's taking way too long though and I don't think I can finish in time - along with my full time job - before the wooden boat festival comes around the corner. The festival we'd like to go to is across Lake Pontchartrain in Louisiana, FYI. about 22 miles.

How has anyone ever done this before? The cleats should be just as strong as installing the rigging right on the deck correct?

 

Some boats do that.... here is a discussion on it..... http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sailboats/mainsheet-systems-41110.html

Jeff.

 

Do not play with safety. If it is rotten, fix it first and prove to be a responsible owner (or skipper). One event missed is always better than losing lifes or property. What you think about is perhaps suitable as an emergency procedure. But nothing more.

 

Why use a traveler ? Modern boats eliminate them and control the main leech with the boom vang. This keeps the deck cockpit clean and creates more people space.

 

I realized today I didn't explain the situation as clearly as I would have liked to -

essentially, the cleats in the corners of the deck appear to be fine. the deck around them is solid. the deck underneath the area where the traveler was is what is rotten.

So my thinking was that in the short term I could set up a triangular system (like the ones being discussed in the thread that waikikin posted a link to (thanks waikikin! that was a good read for this project as well)...

The heart of the question is though, is there anything that I would have to watch out for when running a sheeting system off of cleats instead of from the deck itself?

I know the set up itself - the triangular block and tackle setup on the stern of the boat - is a somewhat common sheeting system and can be done in general. But could it be done from cleats in a proper manner?

And fyi, Hakim Klunker, I'll definitely take your advice to heart, as my first priority is going to be safety on this... perhaps it just means a few late nights of sanding out the underside of the decking....

 

The easiest temp fix for a weekend, would be to use your traveler and track through bolted through the rot into a temporary steel angle iron or channel iron under deck that spans the rotten area.

 

thanks Mike, I like that idea honestly. It saves some work for the time being and also let's us use the traveler / normal system.

appreciate it.
thomas

 

As long as the cleats have backing blocks and are in decent wood you should be fine. Not really any different than a couple pad-eyes.

Look at the pins that hold your main sheet blocks together and attached to your traveler, good chance they are by far the weakest point in you system.

I am assuming this is a small boat, obviously you would need to be a bit more cautious if we are talking about a 120ft classic schooner or something.

 

Thanks bpw. I WISH it was a 120 ft schooner. It's a 23 foot masthead sloop, - a Southcoast 23..

I figured the same thing - that it was basically the same thing as some pad-eyes, but didn't know if there were any other factors that I should be considering.

The only downside is that I'll have to take the stern stanchions down to accommodate the placement of the cleats and the range of motion that the main sheet will need when I'm tacking/jibing/letting out the main for a gust of wind.

The pins were the first thing I noticed last night when I took the rig off, so it's funny that you say that. They seem a bit puny considering the job. If there is a thread on that subject and how to change them out, I'd be curious about that as well.

Thanks for all the info gang,
t

 

I pretty much agree with Mike N: longer bolts and double under the deck, although if there are no ribs and things in the way I'd be inclined to use a big lump of plywood and double all the rotten area with good wood.