Teak window frames

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by Arm, Jul 17, 2007.

  1. Arm
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Location: perkiomenville Pa

    Arm New Member

    Trying to re-furb my window/teak wood frames. I removed the glass(held in by gasket and brass brad nails) and stripped the teak. First question:Does the teak have to be varnished, or can I maintain it with oil? Second: what should I use to set the glass back into the wood frame? Third: Where can I get new quarter round gasket or should I use something else? Thanks in advance.
     
  2. USCGRET/E8
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    USCGRET/E8 Senior Chief

    I prefer to oil teak with Teak Oil myself. Teak is an oily wood, therefore varnishes will eventually flake off, requiring sanding and a lot of elbow grease. Oil just needs to be re-done as required (when it looks dry) with no sanding neccessary. I do this on exterior teak as well.
     
  3. Arm
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Arm New Member

    Thanks, I didn't know if it would be ok with the "caulk joint" that seals the glass. Oil is my preffered method, I just never had teak window frames.
     
  4. alan white
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    alan white Senior Member

    I've had good luck, by the way, sealing windows with a product made for caulking home windows called "Mor-tite". It comes in at least gray and light brown, never hardens, sticks well, and varnish seems to stick to it okay. It's about as cheap as you can get, comes in a ropy cable (you've probably seen it). I'm not kidding, this stuff works. I did a runabout two years ago, and there's no visible change (nor any change in consistency).
    The nice thing is that it is so easy to work with, and replacement is a breeze.
    Insofar as your varnishing teak around windows, I think oil or varnish are pretty much equal, though oil is far less work. A wipe twice a season would be a lot easier than once a season varnishing. The oil shouldn't effect the glass adhesion. In fact, windows puttied on houses the old fashioned way should be given a coat of linseed oil (on the rabbet) before applying the new back-putty. That putty is a linseed oil based product, similar to a lot of bedding compounds used on boats, and my guess is the more natural products like a bit of oil to assist in not drying out.
    I don't know what NMor-tite is made from.

    Alan
     
  5. lazeyjack

    lazeyjack Guest

    you could use Sikaflex, international product, use black 11fc, make a spacer to set your glass abt 2-3 mm away from frame , little pieces of wood, or metal will do, pull em out before it sets mOST YACHTS INC SUPERYACHTS SEAL WINDOWS with this now, also high rises use it with no mechanical fastenings.
    masking tape, and plenty of turps in necessary, its sticky gooey stuff
     
  6. Gypsie
    Joined: Apr 2005
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    Location: Lombok Indonesia

    Gypsie Randall Future by Design

    There is a brilliant new Australian product call Fixtech MSP 190 that can be used to glue the windows in. Sand the rebated area where the windows will fit, apply Everdure two pack wood preserver and leave for 24 hrs. Then use double sided tape ( leaves a good clean edge on the inside), clean the rebate and glass with acetone, apply the MSP 190 and glue the glass in to place. For more info on the product and its use click on http://www.gypsiemarine.com/convert_and_invert1.htm
     
  7. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Teak can be left natural or have polyurethane, varnish or oil applied (listed in order of durability).

    Oil will permit teak to retain its well known under foot traction, which of course isn't an issue with port trim. It also requires the most maintence, usually a few coats a season in your climate, several times a year down here and in the tropics. The oil can take a long time to dry, unless you add a drying agent to the mixture or purchase one of the new, fast drying formulas. Oil will not shine like varnish or polyurethane, but does have a enjoyable quality about it. All oil formulations will darken considerably with age and repeated coatings, requiring it be stripped down and started anew.

    A natural finish will weather gray in short order if seeing much sun light. This silver/gray is pleasing to some and can be washed out from time to time and restored to former luster.

    A harder clear coating like varnish or harder still polyurethane can be used. Varnish is traditional and will add an amber glow to the wood. If applied properly, it will last generations. If applied incorrectly, it'll chip, crack, peel, etc. This is the traditional finish product for trim.

    Polyurethane will give much an appearance of varnish, though the skilled eye can see the difference in shine and color, most can't. It's a harder, more durable coating then any other, but has to be applied correctly for the same reasons varnish does.

    An epoxy encapsulation, before applying varnish or polyurethane will make the application of a clear coating much simpler and less problematic. It will also fix the moisture content, which will prevent moisture gain from shedding any clear coating applied.

    As far as gaskets, I usually make my own, using a variety of different materials. Glass isn't a big deal, any caulk (polyurethane, polysulfide, etc.) will stick, form a nice seal and gasket. Acrylic (Plexiglas) can cause adhesion issues with most caulks, though silicone does stick reasonably well.

    The trick to clear coating any oily wood is to seal it up, especially if you can control moisture content. Epoxy will do this. Then you can apply a UV inhibitor (varnish or poly) to protect the wood, epoxy and finish.
     

  8. Arm
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Location: perkiomenville Pa

    Arm New Member

    Thanks so much for the response's. I am gonna stick with oil as opposed to varnish at least for now. I just need to find 1/2 ich quarter round molding and some brass brad nails and I'll be putting the glass back any day. I'll keep you informed.
     
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