stringer at chine???

Dix has been using this batten back lap technique for years, as have several designers. I also use this technique on thin lap planking, but on heavier stock, the laps will lie fair without the need for a batten. Again, it's all in the engineering and knowing what's going to happen in reality. The battens on the thin planking stock permit a fair curve. Without them the light planking stock will sag between station molds. Dix's stringers (battens) are beveled on one side as most designs of this type are.

 

Do you have any more info, tips or tricks on this construction method? I'm employing it in my kayak and would certainly be open to input. You can PM me or put it in the kayak design parameters thread if you don't want hijack this thread.

 

There's not trick to it, just bend some 6 mm or thinner stock over station molds and see what happens. Unless you have really substantial curves, unlike typical canoes and kayaks, the stock will sag between the molds. You can decrease the mold spacing, which makes for more work, more materials and tighter working clearances, but another issue also rises. This is that there is precious little area in the lap on 6 mm or thinner stock for the glue. So, the usual course is to support the lap with a batten. The batten can remain in the boat or it can be used just to insure the laps are fair and then filleted and taped (inside) once the hull shell is removed from the molds. This is easier if it's dory lap rather then a common lap.

 

Par, Can you find a detailed picture of the place where stringer and plywoods meet to eachother of Dix's design?

 

http://www.google.com.tr/imgres?img...Box&rlz=1I7ADSA_en&tbm=isch&prmd=ivnsb&itbs=1

 

Is this about preparing method of chine log?

 

http://www.google.com.tr/imgres?img...Box&rlz=1I7ADSA_en&tbm=isch&prmd=ivnsb&itbs=1

 

I would concur with DCockey, the method shown in the cross section is not your typical stringer/plank joint. If you insist on using stringers to strengthen the joint I would suggest:

1. Cut notches in your stations to accommodate the inboard stringer faces.

Note: After hull assembly is complete, your stations will need to be removable from the inside to allow removing the finished hull & integrated/joined stringers easily.

2. Plane/smooth the inner mold line (IML) faces of the stringers to mate the planks just right.

Using this approach your planks will nest well and will minimize those UGLY GAPS which will no doubt invite their own problems.

On the stringer material, I would go with ash...very tough, flexible wood that planes nicely & is quite rot resistant.

Regards,

Joe

 

advices

Guys, What is the cheapest construction method of this sailing boat? What are your oppinions? Loa:7.2m , beam:2.5
Can you please draw a simple sketch that shows a sample bulkhead which includes stringers and plywood connection details.
Thanks a lot!

 

Interesting looking sailboat hull...looks like plywood construction would be suitable. Rather than stringers, this boat should have some lateral frames every 12" to 15" with a deck will stiffen it up nicely and reinforce the plank seams.

No keel?

There are quite a few books on plywood boat construction. Good fillets (e.g. West 404 structural filler) on joints & taped seams will be the primary join method to join the hull & frames. All plywood parts should be coated in fiberglass/epoxy.

Yeah, forget the stringers on this boat. Unless you have a high level of patience & good craftsmanship they will be tedious to integrate & provide a solid design. Lateral frames with a deck are the way to go.

Regards,

Joe

 

Here is a sight that sells plywood sailboat plans. Touch base with them as they do appear to have quite a broad variety of plywood sailboat designs. I'm sure they'll point you in the right direction.

http://www.glen-l.com/designs/sailboats.html

 

yes there will be a keel

 

thanks for the comments

 

According to this conversation, My idea is to make this boat with stringers and chine log.

 

something to look at


http://www.yachtdesign.com.br/02_ingles/plans/mc31/constr31-2.html