StemHead Fitting

Discussion in 'Sailboats' started by howardm, Jan 25, 2012.

  1. viking north
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    viking north VINLAND

    Other than using Tig,(gas) for weld strength I'd use Mig(gas) or stick (no gas required) looks like you've got it under control so this old builder/fabricator will take leave--good sailing--Geo
     
  2. michael pierzga
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Yes...that is a well conceived stem head for a CQR anchor. Tack fitting for spin and locking pins to captivate the anchor chain in the roller. If possible use it as a guide.
    I like large diameter grooved chain rollers. The groove helps keep twisted chain from entering the windlass.

    I suggest fabricating full size out of plywood then mounting on boat to test anchor nesting .
     
  3. Gian Milan

    Gian Milan Previous Member


    aluminum and steel should never come into contact.
    There are problems of electrolysis.
    You get two discs and two commercial types of abrasive polishing.
    A disk must be of sisal.
    The other disc of cotton.
    Your steel will become like a mirror.
    If you have a good hand, with a flex you can remove all the imperfections of welding.
    uses 4 steps of Trizac of 3m.

    Beware: when you do the polishing process does not contaminate the material!
    Iron away!!!!
    Ciao
     
  4. howardm
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    howardm Junior Member

  5. viking north
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    viking north VINLAND

    MMmmm-Ok looks like we're not going to replace the orig. as per last posts but modify the existing. Walk slow here otherwise this will look like a jigged up affair. The idea is to blend the two together as much as posible both for visual and operation. That means positioning the new roller assembly tight to and parallel with the forestay attachment vertical web. Hard to tell but it looks off angled, need a top photo view to tell for sure. If you set it up off angled you'll curse yourself everytime you haul anchor as the rhode will not run in line with the rollers center and will attempt to jump out constantly. If this is the case, Just a suggestion but can you position the new fitting out far enough so the roller axil nut will clear the forestay web thus allowing the proper alignment. If not you can bore a receiving hole thru thru forestay web and allow the axil nut to seat thru it. I hate add ons, if not done with care they mess up an overall good looking craft. Some add ons can never be made to blend in. If it were me I would rough fit it and if it looked good and was positioned correctly -I would remove the whole assembly cut and weld it into what would look like a factory assembled unit. However thats me here with a complete workshop so do your best in that direction.
     
  6. michael pierzga
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Test fit your anchor and operate before final assemby. All clear of roller furl drum ?

    Also remember that the anchor stock...on deck..must be secured. a deep U shackle and a flat eye fiiting works
     
  7. howardm
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    howardm Junior Member

    Thanks guys,
    I will be making a plywood mock-up first.
    Haven't decided about a complete replacement yet, if you look at the pictures in the library you will see that some of the fixing screws are glassed in and not very accessible.
    Hopefully it will be reasonable weather this weekend, launch seems further away again.

    Howard
     
  8. viking north
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    viking north VINLAND

    Howard took another look at the view from the top photo above and if you can get that new anchor roller fitting in snug to the forestay vert. web and fasten it using stainless carriage head bolts it should look number one. Will it fit in there and line up with the longitudional center of the boat. Is it possible to get a view from the top photo with that new fitting in place .--Geo.
     
  9. howardm
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    howardm Junior Member

    Yes Viking,
    The best place is up against the forestay fitting, unfortunately, the big front plate is twisted and off-centre, so, will have to go. That will be this weekend weather permitting.
    Howard
     
  10. michael pierzga
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    When you finally mount its worthwhile to bed the assembly into high density epoxy filler so that the finished product has 100 percent surface contact with the substrate and even loading on all three fasteners.

    Put some mylar packing tape, as a release film, on the assembly sole..mount into the epoxy bog.... remove when cured , clean up, paint then bed into sika flex.
     
  11. viking north
    Joined: Dec 2010
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    viking north VINLAND

    Ok-Howard I will keep posted-A few photos would be great. Wish you were closer distance wise(possibly closer relation wise my GG grandmother was a Taylor) We could fit that up no prob as the shop has the plazma and welding gear. However one step at a time and you'll get it all set up. --Geo.
    Good point Michael --was concerned with that very thing when it came time to seperately installing those last two end fasteners on that new fitting. ( uneven surface) Thats why I would cut and weld the new unit to the origional as it should have properly been seated from the factory ??. My preference would still be as i origionally posted --mount the new anchor roller on center with an arch bracket to act as the new forestay attach point. It would mean shortening the forestay but thats no big deal. All my motorsailer builds and many mods. I have made on customers boats use this system and it works just fine.
     

  12. viking north
    Joined: Dec 2010
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    viking north VINLAND

    Howard one more point and you might already be aware of this --when you are cutting using a zip disc, be sure to use a cutting disc rated for stainless. Otherwise bits of iron type oxides will embed in the cut area and cause rust or rust stains on the surface of the final product.--Geo.
     
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