StemHead Fitting

Discussion in 'Sailboats' started by howardm, Jan 25, 2012.

  1. howardm
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    howardm Junior Member

    Hi,
    Still working on my Sadler 27 Frigate, hopefully she will be in the water in April/May.
    My dilemma is, the stemhead fitting, I am tempted to replace the existing one, I don't like 2 seperate plates, and, I would like to incorporate the Anchorlift I have just bought. The whole thing is going to look bodged up if I just bolt the Anchorlift on top of the old plate(s).
    I don't know why there are 2 seperate plates, can anyone suggest why.?
    I would like the jib foot above the Anchorlift and further forward.
    I have been looking for pictures of well thought out stem fittings but can't really find any to compare, any links would be welcomed.
    Here are some photo's of my existing arrangement.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Sorry about the bad picture angles, the wifey took them.
    She bought me a beanie parrot, because I am not allowed to have a real one, if your'e wondering.........:)

    thanks
    Any suggestions welcomed
    Howard
     
  2. michael pierzga
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Gee, what is an Anchorlift ?
     
  3. howardm
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    howardm Junior Member

    Sorry, Anchorlift Bow Roller
     

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  4. michael pierzga
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    I see...for a Bruce type to make the anchor self launching. I have never seen an elegant stemhead design for this type anchor. Most of the modern installations involve somekinda complex folding contraption.

    For a CQR anchor Sparkman and Stephens designed a very elegant double roller stem head. You see it on older Swans.

    Ill have a walk thru the shipyard after work with my camera . If I see something interesting for a Bruce type anchor Ill snap a few shots.
     
  5. viking north
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    viking north VINLAND

    Howardm no big deal fabricating the bow fitting you need using present fitting. I've made and installed many on factory as well as my own builds. The one problem you have is the cent. leg on your pulpit. This will have to be cut off at the bottom of the lower rail and replaced by two supports one either side of the new fitting arrangement.(you will have two options here,will show on a drawing) You can make full use of the existing fitting but will have to remove it for the modifications. The modifications will entail using a grider with a zip cut blade, cutting off the existing vertical portions that hold the present anchor roller. Cut the outermost first as this will allow a necessary nice clean cut for the inner one. You are going to use this as a pattern to make a twin copy. Once you have made the copy temp. clamp your new bow roller unit in position. Next clamp or manually hold and tack weld your origional and made up twin vertical pieces tight in to the sides of the new bow roller. Permanently weld the vertical pieces to the origional bow fitting. Remove the new bow roller unit , clamp a wood spacer block between the top of vertical pieces to prevent warping. Run a light weld along the inside of the vertical pieces where they contact the origional bow fitting. The reason for the light weld is this has to match the bend. rad. curviture of the new bow roller unit allowing it to fully sit down on the origional bow fitting. You might have to do some light grinding here. Next bolt your new bow roller unit in place using a 4 bolt pattern (1/4 counter sink head bolts should be ok) Orientation of the bolts/nuts will depend on if the nuts will interfere with the hinge action of your new bow roller. If you have to place the nuts under the whole assembly you will have to drill 4 seating holes in the decks fiberglass. Using 1/8 flat bar or 1/2 round stock, make up and install a two leg U fore stay attachment fitting that bolts to the sides of the welded on vertical pieces of the now modified bow fitting. This allows the rode and anchor to be pulled thru the legs and stored in the new bow roller unit. This sounds like alot of work but in actuality is is not. You will need a dc welder. stainless 3/16 rods-a med. size grinder-stainless rated zip cut blades-- stainless rated grinding disc.(both prevent iron oxide imbedding rust particles on the stainless) I will check for some photos from my past work and do you up a drawing(s) as you require over the next few days--What is your schedule on this part of your job ?? Geo.

    P.S. added a couple of photos of a compact motorsailer we built a few years ago- if you magnify and look carefully you can see the bow roller, the rode pulled in and the anchor stored between the forestay twin leg fitting that attaches to the sides of the stem head/ bow roller unit. If not clear enough send me your personal e mail and i will directely e mail photos, without compression they are much clearer--Geo.
     

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  6. viking north
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    viking north VINLAND

    Howardm --second sober thought :).--depending if you are right or left handed -- simply mount (bolt or weld) your new bow roller unit to the right or left of the forestay attachment piece. If right handed using the grinder and zip cutter remove the existing outer vert. piece if the space between it and the bow attachment piece is not sufficient. Might be just a simple matter of removing the roller and dropping -fastening it in place. In either case you will have to remove the whole stem head fitting from the boat to do the work--Geo.
     
  7. howardm
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    howardm Junior Member

    Thanks for the input young man.
    The whole thing needs replacing, all I need is a picture of a similar, well thought out arrangement.
    As the nearest marina is 150 miles away I don't get much chance to make comparisons.
    I have found an Oyster Stemhead which looks like my arrangement.

    thx
    Howard
     
  8. viking north
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    viking north VINLAND

    If that doesn't work out I can do you up a quick drawing on re working you present fitting the beauty of which you can re use the existing fastening holes in your hull. From New Scotland to Scotland ---- Cheers ---Geo.(my G. grandmother was a Taylor)
     
  9. howardm
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    howardm Junior Member

    Thanks young man.
    I will make a cardboard model first, let you have a look.
    Fortunately I am not a skotch person , I am a Yorkshireman, the only good thing in Scotland is the Oil money.

    Howard
     
  10. viking north
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    viking north VINLAND

    No prob-i'll track down a better photo of how we designed a fitting allowing the bow roller to be centered over the stem head while keeping the forestay also centered(both of which i prefer) and allows hauling in and securing the anchor in place.This arrangement also allows a furling system to be added but in some situations the jib might have to be shortened by 6 in. or so. No big problem as this usually can be done thru a little cut and fuging at the top. Stainless welding with a stick welder and stainless rod is childs play and produces a nice clean bead rarely needs a grinding touch up. So you're a northern boy-celts/viking/angles/roman/parisii (the tribe that Paris France) With Celt and Viking genetic markers being the most dominant(Saxons-Vikings & celts by author Sykes). My family dominantely southern boy- Bristol-Plymouth and Maidstone. Similar genetics and cousins to the Irish and Scots but we chased the girls from far reaching villiages :D --Geo.
     
  11. michael pierzga
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    If the anchor windlass is mounted on centerline the anchor stemhead roller must be offset to stb.
     
  12. howardm
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    howardm Junior Member

    I would really like to get the anchor on centreline but am unsure how to get strength into the "arch" spanning the width on the bow roller.
    My new anchor is on it's way, so I will then be able to make a start on the cardboard pattern.

    The sails are hanked on, I have no intention of going for roller reefing.
    I don't like the shape of roller sails.

    The windlass hopefully will be under the locker door with a small stainless opening right at the front to get the chain passing under the front lip of the door, with a small cut-out in the door.

    thx
    Howard
     
  13. viking north
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    viking north VINLAND

    Howard no problem on getting the strength into the arch, create a triangle using a cross bar at the top. Ok give me a few hours and I'm going to draw you up a sketch. I've built a number of these for my own builds as well as custom or modified units for customers. Right you are Michael--a windlass--Mmmmm --a luxery I have never had :). I have three, a big one old style suitable for 75footer, a med. size old style one siutable for up to a 50footer and a new shiney one suitable for up to a 30 footer. All chain and rope combo and all manual. I just might become decadent and install one on my new build but hard to justify for a 30lb. plow with 16 ft. of chain, then again the wife is getting older and losing some of her strength. :D

    Ok-did up a quick rough sketch, you might have to enlarge to view-my computer skills not so good to do it on this end. If you wanted the arch to look more yachty-you could form it from 1/2 in. round stock including the spreader bar and weld on flat bar tabs on the ends where they bolt to the channel sides. Round the corners of the tabs to tiddley them up. You can disc grind the welds and polish using a buffer wheel and jewlers rouge on a drill press turning max. speed.Any further questions or details don't hesitate--Geo.
     

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  14. michael pierzga
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    As you think of stemhead modifications, consider the sailhandling aspect. The roller furl drum and the asymmetric spin tack fitting as well as the bow pulpit.

    For practical reasons I hate single..centre line anchor rollers. You cant handle two anchors and you cant leed a mooring line . The classic twin roller stemhead ... main anchor to starboard, auxiliary roller to port as designed by Sparkman and Stephens is seamanlike and a joy to work with.

    It a shame that modern anchor shapes wont nest and launch off a conventional roller.

    with your anchor I fear that you have no choice other than a slightly offset anchor roller projected well forward of the bow. Not attractive and highly stressed..

    a stayed 2 leg bow sprit, capable of anchor and spin tack handling may be prefered.

    A cardboard template is OK. With new constructions and odd anchor shapes we build full size plywood mock ups of the complete bow, anchor, chain lead and windlass plus sail handling and line handling gear.

    Personally I would go with a CQR for simplicity and if you choose Bruce, use stem nest, launch.
     

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  15. howardm
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    howardm Junior Member

    Thanks guys,
    My main anchor is a Spade, this anchor is widely used in my proposed sailing area.
    I like the idea of the main anchor on one side with the facility of a second anchor roller for double anchoring.
    This makes the fabrication easier also, having a nice thick plate on the centreline carrying the forestay.
    Here is (sort of) where I am going (Oyster).
    I will have to pratice my TIG welding (been a while)

    thanks very much Guys
    Howard
     

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