Steel Chain plates to Stainless shroud toggles

Is there a recommended design to avoid coating failure where chain plates meet toggles? (See attached pics). Planning to take these chainplates down to bright metal for inspection and possible replacement. These chainplates seem to be padeyes ... not sure of the flatbar extends below deck and ties into ribs or stringers. There is no ready access below deck for inspection.

 

Welcome to the Forum BSK.

The easiest thing to do here might be to cut these plates out, and replace them with new stainless steel plates?
If the new S/S plates are tied in to the toerail and the capping rail above it, as well as welded to the deck, then they should be pretty strong?

What type / size of yacht are you working on here? Can you post some photos of her as well please, and tell us a bit more about her?

 

I would be concerned about stainless to carbon steel weld - galvanic. I'll ask a metallurgist that I know and trust about that. It's a 1986 Steel hull Ted Brewer Kingsland - 46 ft Cutter rig.

 

Welding stainless steel to steel on steel boats is a very common practice - the steel yachts designed for Chay Blyth's first round the world race had steel hulls and stainless steel decks.
And it is common practice to weld on S/S bollards and fairleads, toerails, bulwark caps, and any place where the paint can easily be chipped off and the steel starts to rust.

 

The sharp edges is where the coating usually starts failing. You could grind the edges to round them.

 

i made up ss bushes on my alu builds,

 

I think that even these slightly corroded plates are many times stronger than SS pins and toggles. I would sandblast and spray galvanize them, and paint them with a suitable paint system. Or just paint them and attach some anodes.