Starting Fluid

I just bought a used 1992 Yamaha 130. It will not crank initially unless you use starting fluid. After the first crank it starts fine after that. The fuel bulb is pumed up tight and I can hear the soleniod kicking in the choke. What could be causing this? It is very embarrasing having to take the cowlin off every time I go to the boat launch.

 

First of all, when you say "...will not crank...", I am guessing you mean "...will not fire". Cranking means turning over, evidence that the starter is working.
I think you have a problem getting enough fuel charge into the engine initially, which is related to the choke or the primer bulb. If you check and see that the choke is indeed closing, the problem most likely has to do with the carburator, which should be dismantled and cleaned. The culprit is likely varnish (gummy deposits) from improper winterizing.

Alan

 

I am not familiar with that particular engine, but I have a lot of experience with all kinds of small (and some not so small) engines. What you describe is exactly as Alan noted, the cold start system in the carb. This could be caused by several issues: mixture out of adjustment, gum in the low speed jets, or a choke malfunction (leaking air past the choke), or a slight vacuum leak somewhere in the carb or air-filter/induction system. There is also a possibly that moisture condensing in the ignition system is giving you a weak spark at cold start.

Since small engines warm up real fast you describe something that affects the mixture only when cold. When the engine is stone cold there is not enough vapor to be ignited by spark plug(s) so you need a richer mixture (so there will be more fuel vapor available). Only a few moments after combustion starts there is enough heat and turbulence in the intake system to get a better vapor/droplet mixture for good running. Anything that inhibits the extra rich fuel mixture getting into a cold engine during start could cause this condition.

Sometimes the small mixture screws will vibrate out of optimum position (follow the manual procedure for adjusting the mixture). Other times gum or other debris will block enough fuel to making starting difficult, but not enough to keep it from running okay when warm. This is also true about an air leak in the induction system. A small leak will run okay when warm, but make it difficult to start. If the carb has a separate cold start system (small engines usually only have a choke and the priming bulb) than that likely needs cleaning out.

You usually do not have to rebuild the whole carb, but just take it apart (carefully) far enough to spray carb cleaner on the jets and fuel passages, and you wipe out the passage ways with tiny pipe cleaners or a similar small brush. When you do this inspect the induction system to verify everything seals okay and does not leak air. Do not assume that if the leak is before the carb that it will not matter. I have a riding lawn mower that will not run worth a darn with the air-filter removed, the carb has to have the filter in place to get the right mixture in the engine. A leak in the induction system will have the same effect.

One other thing to check is for a weak cold spark. When coils, corroded connections, high voltage wiring and spark plugs sit around (esp. in damp places) they absorb moisture into the insulation or the connections. At the first cold start they can have a very weak spark due to the high resistance in the electrical system. Once the engine fires the heat from the high voltage current drives out the moisture in only a few moments and it runs normal. If replacing the spark plug (and cleaning off the rubber boot on the end of the wire) does not stop the hard start, try this easy test for this condition: when the engine is stone cold (presumably with the moisture in the system) spray LPS-1 on the wiring, connections and the coil and wait a few minutes to allow it soak into the components. This product will displace any moisture and yet not prevent electric current from flowing. If the engine starts without the starting fluid you likely have moisture in the electrical system. LPS-1 is a good product for this purpose for engines always around water. I even had a co-worker once kill his car a block from work after driving through a big puddle. He sprayed LPS-1 all over the ignition system and it started right up.

If this is the cause you will simply have to replace all of the high voltage wires, clean all the connections, an perhaps replace the coil and any solid state components. Or just regularly apply the LPS-1 and live with it. You should not have to apply the LPS every time, only perhaps once a month or even once a season (depending how often you use it and the dampness of your storage area).

The other alternative is to permanently mount a small tube running from the air clearer to some convenient point outside the cowl, and give it discrete squirt of starting fluid every time you cold start the engine.

Good luck.

 

Do a search on this. There has been this identical problem. Just because the choke is clicking it was found that it was not shutting off properly. When adjusted it was reported to have cured the problem.

You must also prime the bulb and squeeze quite hard before cold starting.

 

You were right again. The choke plates were not shutting all the way. I adjusted the electric choke and now it fires right up. Thanks guys!