Split mold for hull

Let me see:
4:00 pm Bribane time.

 

Oh, stop: let's not confuse the guy. Let's just give him one simple "next" step that will get him, his project, done......

 

Sam, for alighnment pins I use these little half round bump stop things from the hardware, ther're used under glass tabletops too- about 1/2" round & incorperate a thumb tack for easy instalation to a small pilot hole in your flange molding surface, with some pva on em they hold up good to the gelcoat till cure. Also be carefull on your layup from plug surface to flange molding surface- resin shrink in regards to the very square corner can give some pulling problems- set up a ccouple of test peices with melamine sheet to sort your process before doing the "real" one. All the best in your endeavours from Jeff.

 

Na, need something bigger: a couple of pulls and a little bit of "chipping' and they will get sloppy..............................................

 

Thanks for the advice Ratrace, I've obviously been doing the same stupid things for a few decades now. Regards from Jeff.

 

So, Why do I have to use this Silica putty on everything, you ask?
And, why do you keep going on and on about it????
BECAUSE:
fiberglass mat doesn't like to turn a sharp radius...and a good "key" will have a very sharp radius so that it will only fit together in a very, very specific position.....that is the whole point of the "alignment pin/key".

NOTE:
You have to use the putty to build your parting plane because you used clay.
WHY: because if you try to mat the plane you will---yes you will--create a "crack" between the plug and the plane. This will let resin "seep in".....
POINT: you have to establish the bearer that will allow you to "mat" the plane to it's full dimension and strength without disturbing its' "seal"..........got me?????????????????????????????

 

Ah, come on, don't be that way.....I love ya.
Let's look back for a minute: this guy is building the "production" molds for the CF mini. That means that
this mold is going to get pulled a couple hundred times--hopefully--and it is going to take a beating....right..I just think that the "key" should be able to take the punishment.....that's all.

 

I just want to get this guy moving........

 

ratrace2,

you are correct, the moulds do need serious alignment pins or whatever system is developed, but they do need to be pretty tough for production work.

 

Tomorrow I will show what we are using for alignment pins. I have three options lying around (small, medium and large) and all are different in design as well (not just size).

Perhaps this gives the builder some ideas to make pins of his own (or have them make), or alternatively I could ship them. However, shipping these simple things from Europe to USA does not make real sense.

Tomorrow I am at the office / warehouse, and will make some photos.

ps. your flanges look great. Well done.

 

A little "eye candy"

See

 

Funnel Key: very good design

Now, this is the "cone" or "funnel" design that Landlubber was talking about. It is very effective in design and very easy to implement. For you, I would recommend, if you don't have a Lathe, to go to the autoparts store and purchase a couple of plastic Funnels. They are usually, polypropolene, nothing will stick to them, you can just "hot glue" them to your parting plane and glass over them......cool hu!!

 

Something about this ....So you want a 2" Flange around the top of the mold?...

 

ratrace2,

I do have a 150 mm flange around the deck and on the stern that is 100 mm away from the shear line that is why I had to go with a split mold or a full mold with a split flange for the deck flange.

Design calls for a 100 mm deck flange to mount deck on.

I will look for some funnels, ping pong balls, split balls, half round or pvc pipe caps for a key and put them on before I spray gel coat.

Thanks all.

 

Created some squares out of starboard and routed the edges with round over the corners.

Take a look.

Sam