some parts of Stringers Rotten

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Palmeroni, Aug 21, 2018.

  1. Palmeroni
    Joined: Aug 2018
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    Location: Ireland

    Palmeroni Junior Member

    Hi Sam

    I have worked in restoration projects most of my life until about 8 years ago . We mostly done old Georgian houses and deceocotuve work entrances on hotels , stone fireplaces brick, garden buildings etc.

    I have restored some timber sail boats mirrors mostly and a small boat called a measle.

    But my knowledge of the names of boat parts are limited. But I bet you I’ll know them by the time she hits water ;) For the tools we have more than an avg tradesman would have as my family would of been in different trades as such. Most work will be carried out in the boat at my house and moved to shed to paint if weather turns bad at that stage.

    Cap I’m not sure what that is I did not remove timbers or fiberglass yet. So I think cap is on

    Regarding fiberglass boats I have only restored 3 , 2 19 foot Burke boats only in Ireland I think and a fishing boat with small cabin.

    My resason for the glassing the floor was strength and to clean it all up.

    I have fiberglass several times before

    I estimate it will cost 6-8 thousand euro or in dollars maybe $10 thousand man hours will be done from now till next May

    For keeping the shape and removing stringers I was told by a boating man that called to see it in person the shape would be kept by the ribs with are in the hull outside , I will add picture of these tomorrow but we may see from the Mould image.

    but I am not sure if this will keep shape . But I physically can’t push any section to move as such from outside and she seems strong in the outside
     
  2. Palmeroni
    Joined: Aug 2018
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    Location: Ireland

    Palmeroni Junior Member

    Cap on as far as I know
     
  3. JamesG123
    Joined: Mar 2015
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    Location: Columbus, GA

    JamesG123 Senior Member

    The "cap" is the top part of the fiberglass hull. The deck, windows, and roof that is all (mostly) one big piece of fiberglass that is glued to the bigger lower piece of fiberglass to make it a boat.
     
  4. JamesG123
    Joined: Mar 2015
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    Location: Columbus, GA

    JamesG123 Senior Member

    You have the mold and its fixtures that you attached pictures of in your possession?!?
     
  5. Palmeroni
    Joined: Aug 2018
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    Location: Ireland

    Palmeroni Junior Member

    Thanks James , the cap is on for sure I have been working inside in the dry.

    No I was offered to buy the mold but I did not take it’s still there and could be got but I figure i have 15 % of a boat with the hull and cap so easier starting point until I found stringer damage
     
  6. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    Depending on what equipment you have and what you need to buy, such as engines, electronics and all the other gear, and on how detailed the finished boat will be, such as a yacht or a work boat, it's hard to tell how far $10,000 will go. Also unknown is the price of materials there.

    If you leave the drain hole open until it needs to be closed, you can pressure wash the inside to get rid of dirt and oils or whatever might impair bonding and it would then be easier to get a better idea of what actually needs to be done.

    If you have to rip out stringers, it's best to mark the floor lines on the hull sides beforehand so you can use strings and straight edges to set any new stringers or crosspieces at the correct height.

    Does this boat use an inboard or outboard engine/s?
     
  7. The Q
    Joined: Feb 2014
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    Location: Norfolk, UK

    The Q Senior Member

    Sorry for not replying sooner, you lot have advanced the thread somewhat since I was last on line.
    By judicious test.
    You almost certainly have some through hull fittings somewhere, They probably need removing anyway but when you do clean back any sealant and you should see the raw edge of solid fibreglass if that's what it is. If it had a core then the hole should have been properly sealed with glassfibre resin and be shiny smooth. Look on the transom for any holes and check them for a core, if there are no holes then a small drilled hole well above the water line would do no harm. A previous owner of my boat had dinghy davits fitted so I can see 1/2 to 3/4inch of Solid fibreglass.
     
  8. Palmeroni
    Joined: Aug 2018
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    Location: Ireland

    Palmeroni Junior Member

    i have an engine and a mechanic that will sort for me , but i am thinking of getting a 2nd hand perkins engine cost around 3000 -4000 dollars labour will be 95% free, believe it or not this boat has been power washed :) there was 1/4 screen of oil junk on it, i will sand it all off to get a good key to bond too. to redo the front cabin inside in marine ply 12ml cost will be roughly $400 that will buy 8 8x4 sheets.

    thanks for advice re the stringers i hope to start on them soon i was away last night and could not do my 1st test removal.

    the current engine is a 1.9 diesel ford endurance engine Inboard
     
  9. Palmeroni
    Joined: Aug 2018
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    Location: Ireland

    Palmeroni Junior Member

    no Problem The Q , i have one drill hole through hull at present and the fibreglass is solid and not layering , so holes are already above water line and where filled , looked like are intake for gas fridge and waster water outlet maybe
     
  10. Palmeroni
    Joined: Aug 2018
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    Location: Ireland

    Palmeroni Junior Member

    Only got to start this eve and cut out the top section , the stringer on the left had water in the fiberglass casing when I removed it.

    I’m going t remove the 2nd small bulkhead too to bond the new pieces together. It’s wielded in will need to cut the fiberglass casing in one side to remove.

    The stringers I removed were screwed into the bulkheads. Is this the norm ?

    Stringers were made of teak by Looks of it and bulkheads fiberglass

    (I will sand all before fiberglassing to get a clean key)
     

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  11. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    Make sure to remove enough of the old stuff for tabbing to the hull and not tabbing to the old tab.
     
  12. Palmeroni
    Joined: Aug 2018
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    Location: Ireland

    Palmeroni Junior Member

    yes i just wanted to keep as much as possible before proceeding. i am wonder if i can do one of 2 ways

    1) leave 1/2 the tabbing in height, add the new timbers coated in fresh resin and clamp the 2 bits of tabbing to timber until it drys and re glass over it.

    2) remove 1 side of tabbing completely and then add new timbers and add the new tabbing and glass over old plus new.

    are any of the above good ideas?
     
  13. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

     
  14. Palmeroni
    Joined: Aug 2018
    Posts: 24
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    Location: Ireland

    Palmeroni Junior Member

    thanks Blueknarr yes i had seen previous threads here and elsewhere mentioning this Method, I agree this is the best solution.

    the main transverse support in centre seems solid where i drilled a few test holes so i am thinking on leaving this alone. Currently have a dehumidifier running 24/7 now in her as i had leak at one of the cleats and she was letting a small bit of water in, but was already soaked as such
     
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  15. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Dry her up well before any work.
     
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