Soft Rigging Solutions

[Headharbor]

the eyes have it

Hi all, interesting thread and very pertinent to my current project. I am converting my Buc24 to a rotating rig off a F24. I plan on using ¼” Amsteel for side and forestays. I had planned on using sailors thimbles for terminating eye connections, with the assumption they are less prone to compression than standard thimbles. Does anyone have any experience with these thimbles?

Alternatively, I gleaned from the CYR link above (post 13) that “CYR has been using thimbles for adjusting fixed assemblies and low travel/high load purchases for years. Initially it was custom machined and anodized rings, and now Antal and Tylaska are making these in volume for great prices”. Has anyone found a price list for the ferrels?

Finally, I am gob smacked how easy it is to splice single braided line. I would encourage anyone who has been sitting on the fence to jump in and give it a try. For DIY types, there is a whole new world to explore. Attached are splicing instructions for Samson line.

Best, Carl

 

[michael pierzga]

Be careful....Normally you use the Brummel splice.

http://www.neropes.com/SPL_12Strand_EyeSpliceBrummel.aspx

 

[brian eiland]

This is an attempt to start a thread (appropriately) on soft rigging solutions based on Dyneema, soft shackles, dogbones, Antal rings/ Colligo static lashing Blocks, the Karver range etc. I've put it in the multihull section as (potentially) multihullers might care more about reducing weight.

There seem to be some great ideas out there but not necessarily a central source for designing systems or how to use the available soft rigging components. Colligo Marine is one obvious source:
http://www.colligomarine.com and also their facebook page.

I also found some useful information on an interesting interview about the new GC32.

http://www.thegreatcup.com/thegc32interview.aspx

...the part on the soft rigging is at about 22 minutes (and there are other bits earlier).

Wow, too bad this subject thread fell in disuse, looks as thought there was some very interesting material being presented.

What happen to that link about the GC32,....can it be found some where else??

 

[brian eiland]

There's a lot of good ideas from the past, ships were rigged with natural fiber for centuries, I've worked on refits to Endeavour replica & just last week made some "needle" shroud tensioners for a Viking ship, both a wedge & lever & pretty clever stuff from old times.
Jeff.

Have you got some photos of any of the 'wedge & lever' rigging of old?

I believe what you are speaking of is something I have in mind to 'anchor' some of my upper diamond stays, and possibly some backstays to the mast

FORWARD JUMPER STRUT
Now I propose that we offset this entire cross-load pushing by the aft jumper strut with an opposing forward jumper arrangement. In order to accommodate the inner forestay and its sail this fwd jumper fixture will likely assume a ‘V’ configuration that is somewhat conventional in form. BUT, the assembly is also unconventional in form. In the first place it is not set perpendicular to the mast tube, but rather in-line with the push of the aft jumper strut. And the included angle between the two struts might well be 60 degrees rather than the more common 90 degrees. AND it will NOT consist of two individual jumper stays (wire cables), but rather will be fashioned of a continuous loop of ‘cable’ that would wrap around the back-side of the mast at its lower ‘termination’, and might even do so at its upper ‘termination’.

The actual jumper stay ‘cable’ itself will be constructed from one of the new-age synthetic rigging materials such as Dyneema, Spectra, PBO, LCP, Aramid, C-6 carbon tow, etc. Ideally this stay material will have NO pre-stretch requirements thus no pre-loading. It should be very strong upon immediate application of force, and in a minimal diameter that it can be looped around the mast section in a continuous manner, at least on one end, maybe both. As a continuous loop, ‘both sides’ will always be carrying ½ the total load, rather than one side under load, while the other might be slack. There will also be a minimum of ‘fittings’ required to attach them to the mast (less weight, less failure pts). I imagine a simple ‘block’ of material attached to the mast around which the loop of this jumper stay can not slide any further along the mast….and one end needs to be adjustable

 

[brian eiland]

Not sure whether this answers your question catsketcher but Colligo has "CheekyTangs"

http://www.colligomarine.com/products/category/43-mast-connections

I like these,...minimal holes in the mast tube.

 

[waikikin]

Have you got some photos of any of the 'wedge & lever' rigging of old?

I believe what you are speaking of is something I have in mind to 'anchor' some of my upper diamond stays, and possibly some backstays to the mast

Brian,
Have a look through here https://vikinglongship.wordpress.com/page/3/ & click & zoom some of the pics, nature of operation will be apparent.The shroud or stay/ whatever leads through the eye of the needle & a couple of turns taken around- these turns resist splitting of the timber needle also as they grip around it, the length adjusted until point of needle is roughly level with the simple "loop" chainplate- here the taper/wedge of the needle is important as pushed in it takes up some slack, then the needle is pushed up & tensions through lever action and simply held by one hand around needle & shroud then some light line simply ties the needle to shroud. These were just made of 90 x90mm post stock, if wider material used I think it may be possible to overcenter a little more or even shape with a slight twist/helix to hook around the back of shroud.
I've seen some variations that look kind of "male" in design also but we chose these kind for simplicity.
Jeff

 

[brian eiland]

These are a few photos I had stored on my computer

 

[waikikin]

These are a few photos I had stored on my computer

Those staggered cheeks are quite unusual.

 

[VinTin]

I've been searching for an Antal ring mounting system for a through the hull rope steering set on a vintage Feathercraft aluminum boat. It seems the material used is only available in a ring shape. The motor is set back about 7 inches making it difficult to rig using the traditional rope steering pulley systems. I'd like to keep the size of any holds cut in the transom to a minimum. I'm an arborist by trade and ropes and rigging are something I do almost every work day. Thanks for any help.

 

[HydroNick]

I epoxied an antal ring (OK it was a Harken) in place in a carbon fibre bowsprit. Would that work for what you want?

 

[VinTin]

Thanks Nick. Epoxy might be a good idea. I was thinking of using two mounting plates that would slide together capturing the ring and was wondering if such a fixture was available made entirely of Antal ring material. I was thinking of the possibility of rotating the ring on occasion should it show any wear. It's a pretty low load application but utterly critical. I was also hoping to not have to cut a hole in the transom the whole outer diameter of the ring.

Great thread BTW!

 

[HydroNick]

I am no expert but it looks to me like it would work. When I epoxied in the ring I waxed it heavily in the hope that it also will rotate to spread the wear. With your system it will be easier to replace the ring. Also note that you can make the hole so that it is more like the smallest OD of the ring and you then only have to slide in the largest OD through a slot.

Nick

 

[village idiot]

I just did a heap of splicing with Dynex dux . 7mm side stays and forstay and water stays , 6 mm prodder stays .

Very easy to work with , once you get the hang of it a splice will take about 5 mins . The saving on swaging and adjusters alone nearly paid for the rope and thimbles , used ronstan solid sailmakers thimbles.

 

[village idiot]

Waterstay

 

[village idiot]

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