Models versus Cut plans

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Bullshipper, Jun 1, 2008.

  1. Bullshipper
    Joined: May 2008
    Posts: 152
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    Location: Mexico

    Bullshipper Bullshipper

    I have designed a 24' aluminum dual console monohull using 2d line drawings.

    The boat is very simple with about 11 panels and since I do not understand how to use 3d design software I would like to build a model out of sheet metal so that I can check the cut shapes and pieces before cutting up $5K in larger aluminum sheets.

    Is this a reasonable approach that will improve my 2nd effort on the full sized boat?
    Is 1:10 in the right scale down range?

    I eventually plan to use 4 mm 5086 for the full sized hull and 5052 for the consoles and decks. So I was planning to use 1/8" steel sheet to build the model as I have a welding fab shop. As long as I use a thicker piece on the transom, will this method help me to better judge the balance fulcrum point and side to side stability?

    Thanks in advance for any comments.

    Jeff
     
  2. CTMD
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: Melbourne, Aus

    CTMD Naval Architect

    Jeff,

    you might find that 1:10 hides a lot of issues, a 1mm gap when you are building your model won't be noticed but a 10mm Gap on the full size version will be rather difficult to weld. Send me your drawings and I'll knock up a quick 3d model for you.

    Chris
     
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  3. Bullshipper
    Joined: May 2008
    Posts: 152
    Likes: 6, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 21
    Location: Mexico

    Bullshipper Bullshipper


  4. amolitor
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    Location: San Francisco

    amolitor Junior Member

    developable surfaces -

    It sounds like you might be needing things to be developable surfaces, as well. That's (basically) the surfaces you get with sheet metal or plywood, when you're cutting and bending them into place.

    The problem you get with plans made this way are:

    - is my design actually made of up developable surfaces?
    - in what patterns do I cut my sheet metal so that when I bend them up, the edges will match perfectly, and I can just weld up?

    Luckily, the solutions are actually pretty easy, if a little tedious. You can do it all with pencil and paper, and it's pretty much all geometrical -- you just draw lines and arcs, and take measurements. You don't need a degree in math. A little bit of trigonometry, and a lot of patience and discipline will get you there.

    Then you can knock up a model to see if you got it right!

    If you poke around on this web site, and on the web, for the phrase "developable surface" you should find some good tutorials without much trouble. It's finicky detailed work, and it may take a little while for the 3-dimensional picture to "pop" in your mind, but once you get it, I think it's pretty simple, and kind of neat.
     
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