bulkhead placement?

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by tomdeering, Aug 14, 2006.

  1. tomdeering
    Joined: Aug 2006
    Posts: 5
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: straits of albuquerque

    tomdeering Junior Member

    I'm planning a 20 foot plywood stitch and glue pontoon boat. Something along the lines of this, but longer:

    http://www.jemwatercraft.com/pontoon.php

    My question is this: When I lengthen the design, how far apart should I place the bulkheads? Is there a rule / formula / guideline for this, or do I build it and find out if it breaks apart?

    Left to my own devices, I'd add more bulkheads so that the distance between them is the same as in the original plans.

    Any suggestions will be appreciated.

    Tom
     
  2. ted655
    Joined: May 2003
    Posts: 640
    Likes: 14, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 122
    Location: Butte La Rose, LA.

    ted655 Senior Member

    By changing the length, will you change the thickness of the ply? Those bulkheads are spaced to shape the pontoons as much as for strength. Thickness will matter.
    Looks like you could strech the middle by doing exactly what you would do left to yourself and follow their spacing, while shaping the ends as they have designed it.
    You are making it longer because??? 'toons are very load sensitive. If adding a cabin or other substanchel weight, you may want to increase all dimentions.
    Also, the amount of displacemrnt to material used in 'toons is more than a single hull design. Add the total sq. ft. of ply in those 'toons VS their displasment. Now build a single hull from that same material & check that disp. figure. Wierd huh?
     
  3. tomdeering
    Joined: Aug 2006
    Posts: 5
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: straits of albuquerque

    tomdeering Junior Member

    I don't want to change the load much, I just want a little more space to fish. I figure the boat will draft shallower, but that's not so bad.

    I was hoping to still use 1/4 inch ply as specified. I already bought it. :^)

    Thanks for pointing out the material used versus displacement. I'll think that over.

    Thanks! Tom
     
  4. ted655
    Joined: May 2003
    Posts: 640
    Likes: 14, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 122
    Location: Butte La Rose, LA.

    ted655 Senior Member

    It looks as if the 2 sections on either side of the center frame are 4'. Then a smaller frame and 2' to a point.
    If you add 8' more then I would add it by building 1 more frame the same size as the middle one. add 4' more on either side of the new frame. This gives 4 four foot spaces, leaves the 2 two foot spaces as they are.
    So... instead of a taper starting at midpoint, you will have an 8' straight section and then the taper starts. I see no harm in that. IF... you are a "belt AND suspenders" type person, then I would notch the center of all sides of all frames and inset a 1 X 4 stringer for a horizontal rib on all surfaces. The very ends of these need not go to the very ends of the 'toons.
     
  5. ted655
    Joined: May 2003
    Posts: 640
    Likes: 14, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 122
    Location: Butte La Rose, LA.

    ted655 Senior Member

    Sorry. I can't figure how to edit. It should read, "build 2 more frames".
     
  6. tomdeering
    Joined: Aug 2006
    Posts: 5
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: straits of albuquerque

    tomdeering Junior Member

    belt and suspenders

    "Overbuild" is my middle name. :)

    Houw could it miss?

    Thanks for your help.

    Tom
     

  • Loading...
    Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
    When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.