Shrouds question

75 D/L (?)

Wooow

 

At one end are large and/or heavy Dinosaurs with giant Genoas and tiny mainsail ... Rig which are only well adapted for one direction (Upwind) and one/two winds (Force 3-4)

At the other end, a small, elusive, versatile mammal: a small mouse or a cat.

 

i dont quite understand

 

love how those elliptical sails look, are they worth it and how much harder they are to handle?

 

These are the two extremes, and between the two extremes there are a good handful of possibilities.

 

"are they worth it and how much harder they are to handle?"

Very difficult question.

I think that as the size increases the possibilities decrease.

This example (extreme on the other end) i think is for 1 Ton or less. I wouldn't dare go for a larger version.

 

You can't just relocate the chainplates without significant changes. On that boat the actual chainplates are located deep down at cabin sole level, they are steel plates glassed to the hull. Between the chainplates under the cabin sole is a floor keeping the chainplates apart. The deck "chainplates" connect the above deck rigging to big tie bars that go to these low chainplates. The deck acts as a spreader for the connecting plates and is stiffend by the main bulkhead.
To move the chainplates up, outboard and back, you need to install a bulkead or heavy ringframe at that location because the hull topsides and deck can't take the load otherwise. The partial bulkheads at the end of the saloon benches are to far back to be of any use unless you move the mast and since a bulkhead would run smack trough the saloon benches, the only option is a ringframe.
The cherry on top is of course that you have to get a new mast, since the current extrusion is not stiff enough for a backstayless rig.

Unless you want to actually keep the boat for a long time, this kind of work doesn't make sense, not even for "learning". There is plenty to do and opportunities to experiment without needing to buy a new mast and significantly changing the rig. Replace the existing glassed in chainplates with carbon ones for example. If you replace the existing rod rigging with dyneema you will need new custom deck "chainplates" (the mast terminals you can probably buy). The stern chainplates for the backstay and runners need carbon replacements too.
Chopping the mast is idiotic, you then need a new mainsail or recutting the foot of the existing one. Just take in the first reef early, it's simpler and cheaper.

Removing the diesel isn't the greatest ideea. With a centrally mounted engine accessible from all sides you have a ton of options other people can only dream of. Installation of a shaft hydrogenerator is easy, the shaft has a dedicated cover running along the cabin sole. A full hybrid drive that can regenerate, drive electric or diesel and be a 10kW generator at the same can be accommodated simply by making the box under the table bigger.
The Volvo 2002 is a solid performer and spare parts are still available. It's raw water cooled so flush it anually, change the filters and remember to read the manual to learn the proper cold starting procedure.

The original propane "system" on this boat consists of a Campingaz bottle screwed directly into the gimballed two burner stove and acting as a counterweight. If still original don't let your insurer see it.

 

That is fine by me, but is there really a need for new mast when switching to running backstays?

why do you think that wont be able to keep that boat for a long time with the mods? orcourse ill try the easiest modifications first, in the list are one the significant ones.

yes, i understand it, but why would carry 10 kilos of iron instead of 20kg of electric engine and quite big onboard battery bank with generator.

once again i repeat, i wont go straight to chopping and stripping the boat once ive got it, the list is intended to be
completed within ±5 years and it is a subject to change.

 

you apparently misunderstood me:
these are the big BONUSES of the FCE, that are near-impossible to find in boats from the last 20 years:
tiller-shaft-inline spreaders!
& even if diesels are low maintenance (not necessarily one from the 70s...): much better do do the occasional filter/oil change in the salon, than like a gynecologist through a tiny opening in an aftcabin with the aid of a mirror!

 

oh, you probably right, pardon

cant agrue with that

 

Different stay geometry means different forces on the mast. The existing one was calculated for a central backstay plus running backstays.

You can keep the boat as long as you like, with or without any modifications. You said this is a training boat wich you will discard afterwards. How important the modifications are is your decision. How old is the standing rigging on this boat? The chainplates are stainless burried under fiberglass for 35 years, how much longer are you willing to trust them?

First, you didn't talk about switching to electric but to an outboard in a well.
Second if you want to switch to electric with a generator why replace the existing diesel? All you need to do is add the electric motor with the appropriate clutches and controller, plus batteries. You then have three operating modes: all electric from batteries, diesel moving the boat (and if desired charging batteries at the same time), diesel charging the batteries without moving the boat. A generator needs an engine, if the boat already has a suitable one why throw it out to buy another? Especially when the existing installation isn't restricted by space?

 

this gives me the impression that you are thinking that i wont hire a naval architect for this kind of extensive modification.

its a training boat not only in a sense of sailing, but working with composites as well, 50/50

you are probably right, what i meant is an outboard with a power unit replaced for an electric motor in a well.
Aside from that ive asked an opinion about using regular outboards as the main ice on a boat because i find Sailing wave rover guys claims kind of strange, that its as reliable if not more as a diesel.

stop assuming im going to tear the engine out as soon as i got the boat. If it works-it will remain in its place untill it doesnt.

 

some idle thoughts while I worked on my build:
if time really rests so heavily on your hands that you absolutely MUST do something for the boat (a sentiment I can understand...):
rebed all deck fittings, hatches, portlights, through-hulls, ...anything where a sealant was used.
after you are done:
build a new rudder! Rudder design has advanced, the original may have absorbed water, if the shaft is aluminium it might have corrosion where it exits the lower bearing. Also one can always have a bigger rudder...
Did I understand the boat already has a water-ballast system? (If not: this would be a worthwhile project.
(FCE - it is such a beautiful design!)
(before you do something rash about propulsion: notify me, I will come up with more projects for you )

 

Yes, of course every through hull will be either replaced or sealed, but re-bedding everything up and down seems quite overboard -ish, everything will be checked for leaks and inspected in any way possible, but i don't see any reason of touching windows or hatches if they are still waterproof, at least right of the bat.

Yes, i am considering this, but i don't know any software so it will probably will be provided by the marine engineer which will do the rigging calculations for me, i have hands and don't afraid to use them but i am game developer, cad stuff is too hard for me(jk, but i simply don't have time to study it)

I sure hope it's not, and i doubt that beneteau or more likely finot actually used this kind of stuff, aluminum gets galvanic corrosion and gets tired, steel-if you are not exceeding it's limits, basically forever.

Also i was wondering, isn't the prop too far from rudder? Distance like that gives me thought that it's kind of inefficient in relation to turning force especially at low rpms.
Those are just thoughts.

One of them does, but it's out of my price range and the shape of water tanks is questionable

Yeah, and it makes it even harder to wait and study for licenses

Once again, i won't do anything until i got the feeling of a stock boat, and as i see it-it will take at least a year.