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Yes that's right too, i've seen several good approached on just plywood as well so also considering that. I saw in one example where someone simply took 2 8 inch by 6 foot strips of plywood and basically bowed them outward in the middle using a bulkhead piece and just connected the ends and then put flat pieces on the top and bottom, so yes i'm also going to consider this approach as well, thanks for the suggestion!You can build them in plywood for less money. There is no need for foam.
Good plan, start by throwing away $300 then do it right later. Thats saves how much money?
And you will probably have triple that into it in just strapping it all together.
Hi Rumars, i'm going to start planning on building this design and i think someone mentioned that this link might be associated with a detailed step by step guide on building this pontoon or maybe they were talking about another build having a step by step guide?Go to this page, follow the instructions. Adjust the size to suit your preferences. You don't need to be a woodworker to make good outriggers.
Foam and Fiberglass Ama Construction https://amaconstruction.blogspot.com/2021/02/foamand-fiberglass-ama-construction.html
Many many thanks Helmut! have a great week!Gary Dierking has step by step instructions for a foam and fibreglass outrigger in his Va'a Motu plans. See if you can find an email, here is one of his sites.
Va'a Motu sail https://outriggersailingcanoes.blogspot.com/2023/05/vaa-motu-sail.html?m=1
Not a great idea to drill holes in schedule 40 PVC if you’re planning to use it as pontoons. Once you penetrate the wall, you’ll almost certainly introduce leak points, and sealing them with fiberglass or PVC sheet won’t hold up well with flex and water pressure over time. Fiberglass especially tends to crack when the pipe moves. Grinding out material internally will also weaken the pipe and could lead to sudden failure, especially under load. A safer approach is to keep the pipes fully sealed with proper end caps and solvent welds, or use purpose-built flotation materials instead of modifying the pipe structure itself.Hello, I've got 2 (8 inch) 10ft gray schedule 40 pvc electrical/culvert pipes and am hoping to make y2k streetwear hoodie some pontoons out of them, but they're freekin heavy, so thinking about drilling some holes in the tops of the pipe about 1/3 the way down and then covering the holes with either fiberglass or pvc sheet. And from what i've read, it sounds like the fiberglass could possibly crack from the possible flexing of the pvc pipe, so thinking about trying to find some rigid flexible pvc sheet and then using slow dry pvc cement. So just wondering if anyone has tried something oddball like this? I think i'm also going to try and shave some of the weight off internally using an angle grinder. Thanks for any suggestions!