Seaswirl Tempo 17 sole, mounts, stringers?

Thank you
I took thickness measurements in 6 places around the perimeter of the piece and my thickness is 1.95 +/- .02", which is 49.022 - 50.03 mm. I'm actually a bit concerned now, I don't know what the tolerance is, but I have a whole mm variance. I would imagine as I clamp it up to the hull, I can adjust pressure a bit to accommodate for that. I don't know what my gap is between the center piece and side pieces but I think it's pretty close to what you specify. I can make the gap right when I cut my bevel tomorrow. The peel ply is a great idea, I didn't even know about that stuff, thank you for the tip, that should save me some time. I was going to install it, fill the OMC hole and then locate and drill the keyhole for the Merc but I better know where my keyhole is before I start installing it so I know where I can drill through to clamp it up to the hull. I don't want to drill a through hole in the wrong place. Thank you for all your input, this is looking like the hardest part so far, and I want to get it right.

 

Peel ply can save a lot of sanding and grinding once you get to use it !!

Don't cover the packer with csm just yet !! get it sitting in the boat and then see what has to be done because of it size and thickness I would screw it through from the outside using some of you 18mm ply as plates to hold it flat and hold and compress the wet glass till its gone completely hard then unscrew and take off the plates and sand the whole outside panel filling the screw holes and completely sand then skin with a couple layers of csm and like I suggested covering with a piece of peel ply !! rolled nicely so is smooth and completely flat then let go really hard !! when the resin is completely hard pull the peel ply off and its should be just a orbital sand job with some 60 grit and its ready to prime and paint !!
Inside some boat we completely 100% peel ply all the inside saves hours and hours of sanding so the hull can be painted

 

Ah. So what you're saying is not to cover with CSM, let cure then install; but to at least put a layer of CSM on the inner side of the transom piece, and install to the hull while still wet, and clamp it up? Dont even bother with PL? That makes sense I can do that. I thought about using your suggested method of a plate screwed right through the hull to the inner transom, since I'll have to gelcoat the whole rear of the boat (at least) anyway. But that won't allow any adjustment of overall thickness. I'm already at 1.1 mm variance and I only have a total of 3 mm variance I can go. I guess I'm going to have to hope for the best. I'm getting pretty close to my maximum overall thickness too. I won't be able to add too many layers of CSM and 1708 that's for sure.

 

Just use 2 layers of really soaking wet with resin 450 gram csm and use that as your squash layer between the boat and the wood !!! Paint a generous coat of resin over the plywood first and then put it against the wet glass the bleed holes you have will let any air out from under the packer and indicate as the resin comes through and fills them with resin!!. The glass that's there now that you will be pressing against will not be very strong so use another packer on the outside and screw right through and into the inside packer so it clamps the old glass layer firmly against the new inner transom all together

Me id be using a vac bag to seal the outside and one inside to do my clamping with and draw the resin into and all over the new plywood packer and totally seal everything !! when its hard outside take off the bag and sand it then glass over the old stern drive hole and bring it level and peel ply it

 

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GObgDJgoatU5JCWBbj3opaHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Transom finished up today.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fZqlDvtDfYsLFvTeQ89K6qHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

got some voids, but nothing I can do about it

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7b4f_cNxWw28kiw3goHMlKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vtTjfKMX-jJICPgvw870rKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

I'm going to do some destructive testing on some of the scrap tomorrow to see how string this PL is.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/B-b77gKy3Dan4x4domM_xaHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

 

Great job !! well done

wow that the neatest job I seen for long time.
The top edge could rounded even bigger !! 15 mm radius is ideal to lay glass over or into and makes it strong !! Have you fitted to the boat yet ??
Glass does not like going round corners internal or external so a smooth radius preferably the size I gave you is really good, once the radius gets to 10mm or smaller then you start to get bubbles forming as the fibres want to straighten out!!
Did you get the 50mm wide gap between the side ply panels ?? 50 is ideal but 40 will do also !!
I will do a small sketch and send of what you need to be looking for when you do your glassing and fitting of the transom packer inside the boats !!

You will notice gaps in the plywood veneers and these are the places where water will have virtually no resistance if it gets in at sometime in the future !!
If its bagged all these places get the air sucked out and filled with resin ! Vacuum is a wonderful thing when boat building that's for sure !!

 

its pretty simple and straight forward !!

 

Thank you! Yes that drawing is precisely what is going on in the boat. I did fit the piece and its a little smaller than the old one but still I think it will do fine. I can't afford vacuum bagging stuff, so I'm going to have to take my lumps. I think I'm only going to have room for one layer of 1708 on the inside, once its installed and cured. I am really close to my max thickness. I can add additional layers outside the 8" perimeter of the keyhole, and I just might do that. But as far as the keyhole area is concerned, I'm within .01" of max I think. We will see soon.

 

I installed the transom today.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I used a backing place, but I didn't use the 2x4 method I just screwed it right through.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I even made extra holes to allow air in and epoxy to seep out. Hopefully to show I have enough in there.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

which seemed to be a good thing

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I cut my stringers back a bit more to give myself some more room to work. That turned out to be a good thing

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I meant to cut a bugger hole for the bilge drain, ala Frisco Jay, but I'll have to do that later.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

So far so good. That was the hardest part. So far.

No documentation would be complete without a little youtube.

transom - YouTube

 

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fFcG23nG-jnYuM5tBNKaxKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Got a start on my engine mounts today too. The old mounts were just about 9" by 9" blocks. The new ones; I'm using a one-piece beam for each side, 6" longer to accommodate for the longer engine, and using the same method as the original to accommodate for the 20 degree (ish) hull. Once the level is right and it's stable and secure, I'll fill in underneath for the whole length, assuming I can, and glass it to the stringers. I need to finish the transom before I can make the mounts final.

 

Some destructive evaluation of the glue and materials in the transom. I shuddered at the possible failures I would find... Take a deep breath, here we go:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

A piece left over from the beveling.

https://picasaweb.google.com/gillynp...68554476859106

Just cut into a few pieces for testing.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Clamped to the edge of a bench... (gulp)

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

First strike with a hammer just glanced off. I might not have squared myself with the piece.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I got a solid hit this time. It broke. But the wood broke before the glue did!

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

As far as I'm concerned: 1) the transom is going to be fine as far as the laminating goes, and 2) that is some GOOD GLUE!

 

I'll be filling in the old OMC hole pretty soon. If I don't use peel ply, can I use a filler like Bondo to finish out the surface, once the hole is filled in?

 

If you use peel ply make sure you rip it off when its gone completely hard then do the bondo over the glass !!

Ok using bondo will bring on some screaming and shouting saying you should not use BUT over the years have used boxes of the stuff !! for boat that don't spend there lives sitting in the wet stuff its ok just make sure when the hole is filled it close to level with the rest of the panel so just add layers till its about right remember poly resin shrinks a little as it goes hard a excellent screed is a steel 3 foot rule !! has usually nice sharp edges and stays straight!! long board for sanding with is magic !!
Most of those filler start there life as just polyester resin anyway and a long list of stuff gets added to it to get what you get !!

 

Thanks, I'm not certain if I'm going to use peel ply or not, it's good to have options though.

 

Me I use peel ply every where possible , makes a neat job and saves on resin , saves lots sanding !!