Seachoice fuel pump = Facet fuel pump

Regarding the odd stuff building up in the carb bowls.
I plan to use KG Gun Kote to seal the fuel bowl pot metal. It is a baked on phenolic resin coating.
That should help somewhat fuel corrosion in the carbs. and yes, there exists some visible pot metal erosion in the fuel bowls when I take it apart.
Carbs used to OEM have a zinc chromate finish. Over the years of acidic ethanol fuels, that coating gets stripped away exposing the pot metal.
And of course, these carbs are many decades old.

My basic fuel flow layout is
1. tank
2. fuel manifold valves to select port or starboard fuel tanks and distribute fuel to gen and main motors,
3. large spin on fuel filters, (holds a quart of fuel)
4. Carter rotary vane pumps
5. Anti siphon valves in the output pressure line at the pump (prevents back flow so other motor will not pull air if running both motors on a single tank. Carter rotary pumps have no check valve like a mechanical diaphragm pump has)
5. 10 micron metal inline fuel filter
6. carb inlet.

Frankly I am willing to do that to help stop this weird powder buildup. I was running an engine today, and the carb started flooding the motor with too much fuel, which could be that crud is keeping the needle valve open. Of course might be the float too.
I have good filters, so my thinking is the dust is created in the carb by corrosion of the pot metal. Otherwise, the fuel filters would filter it out, and the carbs would stay clean.
I have also seen that crud build up in the carter fuel pumps when you take off the top, at the fine screen mesh. I find it hard to believe that double sets of brand new filters, 4 filters on 2 engines would all fail to filter the fuel. Both engines have the same issue with that odd grey dust.

 

This time the carbs on the inside are clean, I was expecting sludge.
So after heat straightening the air horn and the bowl for one carb was badly distorted with clamps and a torch, I did not coat them. Pot metal yields with heat.



And I repaired the busted Carter fuel pump, just to use as a temporary pump.
The center bearing clamp had fallen out due to corrosion of the pot metal. I used Loctite epoxy mixed with milled FG fibers and a socket with clamp to hold it down while it cured. Then afterwards coated the inside surface.
I glued together top and bottom with RTV, of course gasoline and RTV are not compatible long term.
I left out the OEM rubber seal ring, and ground the SS motor shaft tip down for a better fit since the rubber ring is no longer lifting the top from the bottom.
YamaBond 4 or even Boat life caulk would work better. This is only a temporary pump. It does pump gasoline again.





The clamp ring will hold the two parts together.
I am not showing the top plate this clamp ring bolts to.
I mean, why not make it function again, if possible. I cleaned all the corrosion by soaking in vinegar. A lot of rust was in the steel lower part.

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added some info.
Yesterday I tested the Seachoice Facet pump and it was working, able to draw fuel up the tank about 2 feet. I put a vacuum gauge on the intake and got about 3 to 4.
It had sat in a plastic bag since I last tried it, and it was stuck. Had to blow compressed air into the inlet to free whatever gets stuck when E10 gas is used and then it sits for a while drying out, most likely an internal rubber check valve.

I am really glad I found the problem with all these pump issues. That does not solve the ethanol corrosion issue which has again manifested in the Onan MCCK carburetor jets, happens every year. They have corroded slightly restricting the fuel flow so under loads, the gen wants to quit. Hopefully don't have to take carb apart to clean it, might be able to adjust the needle valve richer. Gen was hot and it is in a hard to reach spot or I would have already done so.

 

Another E10 ravaged carb, this off a green LawnBoy expensive power drive mower.







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The gas that was in the tank phase separated. the gas does not even look bad, it even smells like good gas.
I started having troubles with the carb last fall, so I shut off the tank valve, but could not run it to clear the carb, so it sat all fall, winter spring, till today.
It shocked even me to see how much acidic ethanol ate the metals, all the corrosion from sitting with a single full bowl of E10.

I am starting to think, I should manually phase separate the gas going into my lawn mower motors as a precaution. Before E10, I never had this stuff happen.

 

Well I fixed that old nasty carb



Soaked it in hot white vinegar. Verified all the fuel passages, it started up and I cut the yard.

The fuel bowl I sprayed with Gun Kote blue and baked at 350*F, If it is fuel proof or just fuel resistant coating, I am not certain. I was having an issue with it dissolving when baked at 325, so I upped to 350.

 

Took off carb bowl, coating is solid, intact, still shiny. Success!
Coating is KG Nano Gun Kote aqua blue.

However, I baked this at 350*F for 2 hours versus 325*F.

This lower bake was a failure.
I had coated an old brass float and baked at at 315*F, and it was not gas proof, so a higher temp is I think a must to ensure the phenolic resin sufficiently cures for my particular oven. And 350 is not much higher than 325 and 315 is too low to cure.

Here is the brass float, see they are soldered, so gets too hot they can fall apart.
I had to recoat that bowl too.
Either temp was too low or due to my using an artists brush versus the air brush. In Gun Kote there is a resin that will settle out. Maybe even with shaking the can, using a hand brush takes too long and the resin drops out. Maybe a little of of both.
Using artists brush also creates less smooth color.

 

Updating my experience with the Seachoice 20341 = Facet 40288 pump.
It has been great. Still works. Quiet and reliable.
I just bought another one, to replace the Carter rotary vane pump on port motor.
Got from Aircraft Spruce a 40288.

Regarding the gun coat blue, don't paint fuel floats, bad idea. Gun Coat needs a high heat to cure, bad for floats.
On all exterior items, guncoat seems to be holding up ok.

I repaired some pitted Perko zinc metal fishing rod holders with JB Weld, then gun coated them, have held up great. Same with some handles.

On some carb parts, guncoat did not hold up. Things like pot metal, corrosion came through the coating. on the steel lawn mower fuel bowl it held up great.

These parts have been looking fine for over a year. The Perko rod holders really were trashed, pitted,, one had a corrosion crack. Most would have tossed them. I drilled the pits clean and faired with JB Weld, then baked with the Gun Kote. Those things are pricey, since I have 6, decided to fix them. They have rubber inserts which slip out.


before picture, ground cleaned and filled pits with jb weld.