Sea Sled madness. It’s in my brain.

Use one person as an anchor and the second person can set the t bars. Another thing that can work is hotcoating. But this isn't ideal for 17 oz biax. A sticky coat doesn't work well with wetting out. However, John, what you could try is hotcoating and then leaving some areas unwetted as sort of hold me's.

so, think like running a roller up the side in say four or five places...let it kick until good n tacky; then wet out the substrate, but leave about 2-6" of the hotcoats; then roll the glass and it'll stick like glue on the dryspots. Then you'll have to work the wetout more on those spots, but should be doable for a short area..maybe? Just an idea. I think it'd work if you were solo.

 

The props worked, Fallguy!

 

How are you tying the glass together? Or overlapping?

 

Much overlapping. With interleaving between layers

 

Lots of work, but not many photos.

I like the way the biax can distort on the bias, given some gentle persuasion.

 

Lots more work and no photos... or comments.
I wonder how the Sweathog survived the weekend!
It's been hot here.
He made good progress but I lack details...
Details please Mr John.

We got wicked good lightning here last night!

 

So I woke up Sunday morning with no way to hold my head that didn't hurt ... No wait. Wrong reference. Seriously sore though. The hull exterior is all glassed, except for a few small areas. Doing the tunnel sides is really strenuous when it gets steep. Have to perch on one side, reach 50" across to the other side to roll out and squeegee the epoxy without leaning on it.

A few more days of basic fairing, then I'll turn it over. And then I have to design and build a superstructure and foredeck area. I'll be actively soliciting input at that point.

Ad Hoc sent me a link by email to Munson boats a while back. I think I'll do something like their medium walk through wheelhouse. But arranging the forward cockpit and foredeck area is a little more up in the air.

 

Along these lines. No drop bow. More structure in the forward area than a simple box.

 

Challenging texture.

 

That is typical. Most guys just cut the stitching off with a sander and stop. Special shiny areas of a dime/nickel at edges and overlaps; just dip the sander. Some shine is not going to be the end of the world. Blush or sandthrough are a much worse problem.

 

Would it be feasible to just clean the blush off, maybe wipe down with acetone as well, and then fill / fair with microballoons?
Or do you still need to do a certain amount of sanding first, never mind that you probably won't get down into the localised hollows (?)

 

well, a bit of sanding it sort of needed to reduce excess fairing AND is it typical to have a few rough spots here or there

 

I guess that the aim would be to just sand off the stitching that is protruding, and try not to 'break' any of the glass strands in the cloth underneath?

 

That was exactly the source of my uncertainty. As you can see from this picture, if I sanded that surface just until the stitching was gone, about 95% of the surface area would still be shiny. That made me anxious, and I sanded too much in some areas.

 

Last exterior glass. And another view of the shop.