Sea Sled madness. It’s in my brain.

We talked about this area many, many months ago and it was going to "develop".
This is now a weak point. A likely point of failure from sustained load cycling and vibration.

You could glass in a huge triangle of wood and cut a passageway through your hull using generous, sexy curves that don't produce weak points.
OR
Just rip a 4x4 diagonally and glass in the two 1/4 - 1/4's ( as I've referred to them before ) reducing point loading in that corner.

Looks like you're going to need to run your tank fill to the outer side deck.
And on that note, how are you going to drain the aft deck?

EDIT: It took me so long to compose this post I didn't see Bajansailor's response.

2nd edit: It's too bad you cut off the bottom of those pillars, 1/4-1/4's could have gone there too.

And still no 10' sheets of 1/2" ply available for that aft deck?

 

OK..let's look at the structural side first.

Ideally, you need "something" to do this:


A bkt that extends to the end, this reduces any bending moment, and SCF via a 90 degree joint to zero on that corner joint, = no issues!
The upper end, needs to be at least half way up...if you can't take to the top horizontal mullion line, then add a long.t, as shown, to help take the reaction load.

A "simple" solution, if you can't do this, is thus:


A suitably size compression post, that - if done correctly, is removable, for that easy access...like a "gate".

Swamping - stability.

Again, several options each with their own merits, but that is more your satisfaction and ease of change.


If built up from the transom going fwd...a sloop creates a naturally draining aft end.
Getting green water off this platform area is your no.1 priority!

Other options are a variation - depending upon your layout, create facets to do the same:


There are many permutations of the above using multiple facets, but....all with the objective of GETTING WATER OFF FAST!!!!

Thoughts?

 

Don't give up this, if it is an objective for the boat.
But.. don't loose sight of SAFETY first....if the boat is not safe ...matters little what you wish to do with her...

 

Ad Hoc,

If John got out the chain saw that he refers to often, could he leave the posts/pillars and radius a huge 1/4 curve transitioning up to B6?
I'd sure want to get rid of the pillar if I did that.
John, you could use a stiffer beam off strong points in the top deck (roof) to negate the need for those aft posts/pillars
for heavy lifting (like o/b's). Leave the overhang, unsupported.

 

Id need to see a sketch of this to make sure i fully understand your proposal.

 

So, the aft deck will fill with water now I see. I think you best raise the deck up to make sure it doesn't flood. Some time ago, I remember discussing/recommending a splash well or 'full height' something. The extra space will probably really help with cabling, too.

Again, no c.v., but I agree with the stress point and I would just glass the s..t out of that seam, longest pieces first and then down to smaller ones to spread out any stresses. If you plan to launch the thing like a runabout off waves; then more. So much depends on your expected speeds and loading. If u plan to put 1000 pounds of bricks or dancers back there; probably more. I was running a 24' Hurricane a couple years ago and I flew off a damn wake and dug the bow in hard. It is that kind of stuff I'd be more worried about.

If you decide to go and mount an angle there; you can always add a swim deck off the back to walk onto for boarding, but consider handholds as well or someone might end up in the sea.

 

Ya, I don't know how to do that.
Any rebuild ideas that might involve a chain-saw?
Thanks.

 

Well, no chance of extensive cutting as @BlueBell suggests. If it shows itself to be an issue, I'll have 2 brackets fabricated that bolt massively to the transom, and B6, running under the tread boards. As you can see in the images, the weather decks are 5" below the edge of the transom. I'll build tread boards, that levels that plane off. Now I'm all annoyed at myself for not just building that level to begin with. It would have been easier. Boy, I sure wrap myself around the axle sometimes.

 

So, thoughts. First, I'm a dufus for not making it level to begin with.

I think the compression post is a terrific idea, @Ad Hoc . Maybe hinged at the bottom. The most elegant solution.
I can't make the quarter circle cut without removing the roof, and reinstalling it with heavier longitudinal beams.

I cut off the bottom of the posts because I couldn't see a tidy way to floor around them and not risk leaking. I should ask, what side of scupper is called for to quickly drain the back deck.

 

Or just leave it and deal with it if, or when, it fails.

 

Ah. My gut instinct tells me a bunch of glass and it'll be fine, although the inside wall structure is a little odd as DC has state himself.

 

I did put a couple extra layers of glass at that location. It's visibly bulged there. But I don't remember, from 2 years ago, how many extra layers.

 

Hmmm... that's why "we" use drawings...

 

This would be my minimal response, but what do I know.

 

I'll give it some thought. A lot of thought. But bear in mind that the vulnerable projection is basically square in side view. It's 17" fore and aft, and 19" vertically. As a lever arm to concentrate forces it's pretty short.