Sea Sled madness. It’s in my brain.

A nice drop of wine??

Like this:

 

Understood. I will revisit this when there's no vulnerable wood.

Today's:

 

This is the port side cockpit sole. A very tricky cut. I'm glassing the underside, before I bond it down, hopefully forever... Through the door to the left you can see the complex framing it will sit on.

 

And this is as far as I got. A colleague phoned. Balancing a door in a new build. Door broke. Trapped in a 5th floor apartment for 5 hours. Took 15 minutes to spring him. Vetta doors are very nice, but not simple.

 

Oh dear But good news that you were able to get him out fairly quickly.

Re the port side cockpit sole - what type of glass are you laminating on there please?
When you bond it down on to the transverse frames, will you apply epoxy putty to the tops of the frames and also use screws, or just weights to hold the panel down?

 

I'll be using 14oz/450gm biax on the underside against the excessive floors. Epoxy putty for sure. Normally I'd use screws, but I want to be extra confident that there's no leaks. So I'm undecided. What do you suggest?

 

Very hard to ensure no leaks if you mean between the frames on narrow landings of 3/4" or less. But from above, a couple of those 450g pieces tabbed all around and an epoxy fillet and that biax will be pretty impenetrable. The thing to be careful about is wear. Skip the screws unless the panel is warped, then only to make it flat.

 

Solid advice, although the landings are 2".

 

Two inch landings are good enough to seal across as long as the panel doesn't slide when applied. I like to make a vee all the way using a 6" trowel. The vee depth is about 1/4" and I go for full coverage on the landing. You might drop to 1/8" thick to reduce mud needs, but the 1/4" is a surer way to seal each area from the other. I would not use your wood fillets above the sole. The angle of the hull reduces the mud needs already. Use a 3/4" to 1" wide tongue depresser.

 

Excellent advice, Fallguy. I've been using a silicon mixing spatula from the kitchen wares area in the nearby IKEA.

I'm working my way from the bow to the stern. But I'm going to have to decide on engines soon. How I build the area around the transom depends on powering options.

 

Anyone got an outboard, or a pair they can lend/rent/sell me?

 

Have you considered screwing, curing, and removing?
Then filling the holes? More work.
You're basically making composite screws when filling the holes.
You wouldn't need that many screws.

I did this on my arched, laminated spruce roof beams and it worked out very well.

What about "give"?
What size(s)?

 

Well, if anyone has one to give, I will be appropriately embarrassingly grateful. But its a big ask. Total installed power between 200 and 300. That's the design space. Serenity should plane, even with a single 90. And 400hp would be more power than we'd use, but worn engines near the end of their lives might last longer if very lightly worked.

 

I was kidding about "give", lend is close enough.
I believe your source will reveal through the boatyard you're in now.
I borrowed five different motors to move my boat once it was finished.
But that was a long time ago and I no longer have all those connections.

I take it you don't like my remove-the-screws idea.
How many would you really need to put in?

Thickened epoxy with a bunch of sand or water bags on top would work too.
And I like FallGuy's idea of the trench.

 

I'll know when I drop the sheet on the goo, thats for sure. And almost certainly there'll be some screws.

There's a good 90hp in the yard, but just 1. Be really sluggish with that little power.