Screwing and nailing!

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Michael35, Aug 5, 2008.

  1. Michael35
    Joined: Aug 2008
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    Location: Louisiana

    Michael35 New Member

    I have a 50' wooden trawler in south ,La..I am headed to drydock to perform maintenance.The boat was built in 1984 and construction cosisted of nailin the planks and bolting the members.Is there a reason I cannot refasten the planking by screwing rather than nailing?I understand that the boat shifts and moves a little but it seems like a better alternative?Thanks for any help,Mike
     
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Nails are used because of the price, not their holding power, which is marginal, though real cut "boat nails" do hold better then the regular "wire" nail.

    Screws are a much better option, especially if the boat has some age. Use quality fasteners, designed for the environment, also drill properly sized clearance and pilot holes.
     
  3. BHOFM
    Joined: Jun 2008
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    BHOFM Senior Member

    Ken Haninson told me if you use nails on a boat, you get
    screwed!

    Nails are much less labor intensive!
     
  4. Michael35
    Joined: Aug 2008
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    Location: Louisiana

    Michael35 New Member

    thanks

    I could not imagine nailing would have too many advantages.Any suggestions on type?I know its a cheaper way out but I have seen "deck Screws" that are corrosion resistant and such.I can get Stainless by the pound but I use them every day in Aviation and the heads are not as strong for driving them in?Thank any info will be appreciated,Mike
     
  5. TollyWally
    Joined: Mar 2005
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    Location: Fox Island

    TollyWally Senior Member

    If you want to drive screws buy a cordless impact driver like a Makita or something similar. With pilot holes and phillips heads you're golden, an impact driver will effortlessy drive screws all day long. Bronze is a little soft, galvanized is a little brittle in my experience. I just finished driving 50# of galvanized screws and snapped a few heads cheating on my pilot holes.

    Other people will weigh in on the merits of stainless screws, oxygen etc. I'd probably use stainless phillips myself, but I'd agonize over the underwater ones. Listen to others regarding the oxygen thing, then do what you are going to do! :)
     
  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    The real ticket is a "boat screw" which comes with head and drive options.

    [​IMG]

    I prefer square drive, because they don't cam out and if you strip out the drive from a slipping bit, then it can be easily drilled and extracted.

    Bronze is the way to go. Stainless if you must, but be forewarned it isn't a savings if you have to replank and refasten sooner then you would like.

    www.mcfeely.com is one place to look.
     

  7. thudpucker
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Location: Al.

    thudpucker Senior Member

    Nails?
    Are they 'Clincher nails'? Clincher nails are bronze, ribbed, and are bent over on the inside end as they are driven. They have one helluva hold on whatever they are put into.
    If your boat is Clincher nailed, and not Nail-sick you could leave those nails alone and be a happy man.

    If you use screws. Use Bronze below the water line, and Stainless above the water line. Always.

    I think the only advantage Square drives have over Phillips, Cross point, etc is just that. Square is square everywhere. Phillips is not!

    All the Square drive bits are the same size no matter who makes the screws.
    Those Phillips, Cross points etc all are different.
    You'll really screw up a lot of screws if you dont use the Square drive. Solely because you may not have the bit to fit the screws.
     
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