Saturating Epoxy on Plywood

[Meanz Beanz]

Everdure is the product I am familiar with, have used in the past and been reasonably satisfied with the result. I have just been told that its a load of tosh, a myth, it does not saturate and seal and that the better thing to do is coat the whole lot in a couple of coats of epoxy resin.

Opinions please... the ply is to be painted and I want a simple way of inhibiting rot (like I thought Everdure was) preferably without added the extra kilos that the recommended amount of resin would add.

I'm a little confused??

Cheers
MBz

Edit: I should say "it does not saturate and seal any more than straight resin" to be more precise

 

[Landlubber]

Heinz,

You were right, Everdure is a very good product, but like all very good products they rely on the applicator following the rules and guidelines of the manufacturer.

One trick that a lot of people prefer to ignore is that the everdure should be thinned by solvent for the first few coats, that of course really allows it to penetrate.

Now being males, we all know better then the manufacturer, so we do whatever we like, and when it is referred to as being "no good". it is most likely that the directions were never read (as usual), and the results were not satisfactory.

It was made originally by Epiglass in NZ, International took them over and kept their good products, well most of 'em anyhow.

Everdure is an excellent product, use it with confidence, i first started using it in about 1972 i reckon, we made a plywood 32 foot JOG racer then, and it is still alive and kicking today.

 

[Meanz Beanz]

Thanks LL, yes I do know about thinning the first coat of Everdure and I will admit I have and sometimes have not depending on the circumstance. I will also admit the last time I used it it was an Epicraft/Epiglass Product getting auld! The stuff always looked to me like it had penetrated and set in the timber, certainly gave me a high confidence factor and never rotted on my watch.... but....

This came from the opposition, a respected timber/epoxy supplier so it took me back a bit. They where saying that the timber doesn't actually adsorb the resin and that it is the equivalent of coating the timber in undiluted resin. Given the source I assume some, hopefully expert, knowledge.

:?:

 

[Landlubber]

Sad that some companies slag the opposition with statements that the untrained user might believe due to lack of anything to the contrary, fortunately for us ol' apes we know better!

 

[Meanz Beanz]

Yeah... you do wonder when you have had experience that tells you different. As always the devil is in the detail and I can't help but wonder... what have I missed? Still I think that Everdure is a pretty good solution... I asked just in case I was going to receives some "professional" revelation as to why my experience was "flawed" for some reason.... you know, as tends to be the way with boat stuff...

Cheers LL & avagoodweekend...

MBz

 

[Trevlyns]

Beanz, I had a go at this some months ago - dealing with rot in the hull, that is.

Have a look at these threads...

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/showthread.php?t=17739

http://www.boatdesign.net/wiki/MaterialsForBoatbuilding#PRESERVING_WOOD_AGAINST_DETERIORATION

...and the site that inspired it...

http://www.angelfire.com/nc3/davecarnell/rot.html

Hope this is of some value.

Best

 

[Meanz Beanz]

Thanks Trev... I will have a look.

This is new timber so its more preventative than cure.

That Wiki is good info! Thanks again...

Cheers
MBz

 

[Trevlyns]

It's good for new timber too! I'm using it on my build.

 

[Blastoff]

Hopefully not a dumb question: If you apply the first coat thinned, Wont the first coat keep other material or coats from penetrating OR do you put multi coats on when still wet ???

 

[Meanz Beanz]

No... not dumb.

Yes... I think it, just builds up a bit of thickness and makes sure that you got everywhere.

No... wet on dry.

The opposition says that the timber does not adsorb the epoxy on a cellular level which is why there is no difference between coating with a resin and coating with a "saturating resin". Some of the info in Trevs links supports that idea some what.

The link that Trev provided also suggests that prior coating with Ethylene Glycol has two advantages. 1. it kills rot 2. it opens up the timber on a cellular level allowing a better bond with epoxy resins. It sounds like a reasonble and cheap trick...

Cheers
Mbz

 

[Manie B]

Thanks Trevs

damn fine reading

 

[the1much]

probably like getting the wood wet with water,,,,opens the pores up so they can be "filled" with the resin,,,,,,,,dont worry,,i not gonna "hijack" im actually learnin something,,,,,jus prob not learnin right with you2,,,,ha,,hehe

 

[Meanz Beanz]

Apparently thats this issue they have... epoxy can't do what water and other chemicals can so it remains a "surface" coating.... don't ask me????? and yes I'm sure thats not quite right for some arcane reason.

 

[Blastoff]

I like the idea about using Ethylene Glycol to open up the pours and I like the idea of thinning the epoxy to seep into the plywood but I dont like the idea of the thinned epoxy for the first coat.
Would a slow cure epoxy seep into the plywood before it goes off ???

 

[Meanz Beanz]

Theres the rub, one manufacturer is saying don't thin, its not required, and makes no difference yet the other ones product is a thin one that you thin further to get "saturation" for the first coat...

I suspect that in reality its a little semantic and that both approaches work well enough.... so pick your side of the argument and go with

I don't think that slow cure would make any difference, I think that its to do with the chemical make up of the epoxy more than anything. Trevs link says that heating the epoxy and the timber yields better saturation but you would want a slower hardener because heating will shorten the working time.

Cheers
MBz