Sailmaster 22 Centerboard Repair/Replacement

I'm restoring a 1964 Sparkman and Stephens designed Sailmaster 22, built in Holland by de Noord. The 800 lb iron centerboard is badly corroded and will likely need to be replaced. First, I have to figure out how to get it out! The pivot bolt accessible from withing the cabin has only a large nnut on it and no apparent means to pull the bolt to drop the board out of the trunk. Any ideas?

Next, if I do have to replace it, I have no idea who makes them. I've considered using the existing board to make a mold, glass it up and fill the center with lead. Would love to hear other ideas.

Does anyone have experience working with the centerboard in these boats?

Thanks...Greg

 

Replacing centerboard

Hi Greg,

Currently working on my boat, a '64 Sailmaster 22D from the same wharf as yours (hull # 152).

The nut you mention turned out to be some sort of a cap. When I managed to get it off this morning(it was pretty corroded), I saw a brass axle. I managed to pull this out quite easely with some pliers and presto; the centerboard came out!

A friend who has another Sailmaster 22D had a board for me. He had them made according to drawings he received form S & S via email. I do need to shape it a little bit to fit. I believe some of the details in buiding vary from year to year or depending on which wharf built them.

Hope this helps,

Anders

 

Replacing centerboard

xxxxx

 

The board is out!

Hi...Anders, thanks for getting back to me. We found the bolt buried in glass and had to dig it out. It was completely frozen, so we had to cut the head off and drive it through. The board dropped down and was badly corroded, holes in some places. I'm having a new one fabricated from 316 stainless by a local metal worker, with a bronze sleeve in the eye. We were able to get the drawing for the original design from Sparkman and Stevens. The same design was used on the Kestrel 22. I will also finish it off with primer and bottom paint.

 

Not knowing the shape of the existing centerboard, I can only suggest that there's a small possability that a mild plate steel replacement could be torch cut and ground to fit.
The other alternative would be to weigh the existing keel to see how much weight corrosion has taken and if not too much, sandblast the old centerboard and build it back to original shape with epoxy. The success of doing it that way will depend upon how completely the rust is removed.
I would keep the old centerboard if it weighed at least 90% of the original weight, as I doubt that small 10% difference would affect stability or performance to any noticable degree.
The pivot hole may be badly worn, but there you could drill it out and insert a stainless bushing.
You may be surprised to find that very little weight has been lost. I would imagine a new casting would be rather pricey, given that our country no longer has very many foundries left, and those that do exist are not cheap.

 

Thanks, Alan...I had originally planned to do just what you suggest, but the board is just too far gone...it has holes rusted all the way through it! The original drawings from Sparkman and Stephens call for 7/16ths steel plate...a local metal fabricator in Maine has told me he can make one to the original specs out of 316 stainless for about $400...given my investment in this project to date, that amount is probably well worth it. Since stainless is a b it more dense than regular steel plate, it will way a bit more, and that may make the boat a bit stiffer, but the rig, all can certaily handle it. That is the plan at present...thanks for your thoughts...Greg

 

I can't believe the price of $400.00. Are you sure? 316 alone must cost a dollar or more a pound in plate form. Then there's the cutting time and the drilling two holes, grinding...
I don't think a 7/16" plate would weigh 800 lbs either, so perhaps the $400.00 begins to make sense. Maybe 12 sq ft, about 220-240#?

 

Re: pivot hole

Hi guys,

Just noticed the metal was thicker around the pivot hole. There is additonal steel there to make it fit and turn better. When I took some of the rust off with an angle grinder, I found there is a brass insert in the pivot hole. So the brass axle fits into a brass insert in the steel centerboard, which thickens over an inch or so. My new plate is 10 mm thick. Cannot give you the width of the brass insert, as the plate is at the forgery. Will post dimensions of olD & new board & axle when they are back.

Anders

BTW 316 steel is bloody expensive. I'm going for galvanised steel, which should last me a couple of decades...

 

I think you are right...there is probably a factor of ten error in the weight of the centerboard, more like 80 lbs rather than 800...would make more sense all around. The new board is to be delivered and installed next week...thanks for your input, Alan....Greg