Run-about to center console conversion

Hello everyone!

I have recently obtained a 16' run-about (I/O), that I want to convert to an outboard powered center console.

The current deck is shot, the coring is all but rotted away, and the fiberglass / gelcoat top has separated. I got the boat because I wanted to make a new deck.

Anyway, the deck / floor / etc. is suspended from the hull sides, and a "tub" is made with the seating / etc.

I have the deck separated from the hull, and will be lifting next weekend, but I want to start planning the rest of the journey.

I will be replacing the transom (again, it's currently an I/O and I'm converting to outboard), and the stringers.

My question is, how to I go about making a new deck / c0ckpit for the hull??

I have looked and looked at different designs / plans / etc., and short of glassing some supports to the sides and stringers to support the new deck, I can't figure out how to do it. I have some experience with wooden boat building, but everything there is framed, so it's easy to attach the floor / etc., not sure how I'm going to do it with a fiberglass hull. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Wayne

 

The easiest thing to do would be a "taped seam" type of addition to the hull shell. As to how you can go about these sort of ad lib operations, well engineering on the fly goes with the problem solving skills you must have.

Removing the deck cap will make the hull considerable weaker, particularly athwartship, so make allowances for this in your new accommodation.

My initial thoughts would surround a sheer clamp or shelf to stiffen the side deck area, then attaching things to this. I'd bond the sole directly to the hull shell, rather then hang it from the deck cap.

Think light, because extra weight kills performance in small boats. Make your transom from 2 layers of 3/4" plywood or three layers of 1/2" (which is stronger). The boat will need two substantial stringers about 24" apart down the centerline, bonded to the hull shell. Two more stringers one outboard of the main stringers will also be required. These can be lighter. The sole can be 1/2" plywood. The rest of the "furniture" can be 1/4" plywood, unless it's structural, then use 1/2" or 3/8". If you have a raised deck portion at the front of the boat, make the horizontal piece 1/2" and the vertical bulkhead that supports it 1/4". All pieces filleted and tabbed to the hull shell or other surrounding elements.

 

Hi Par, thanks for the response;

The boat currently does have near full length stringers that are 2x6 (boat was originally designed with a 302 in it), and I'll be sure to add the additional stringers out side of those.

I understand attaching the sole directly to the hull, but could (should) I attach it at the stringers too, or do I just want to attach it to the hull sides? It seems to me that I would want to attach it to the stringers as well so that there is no horizontal flex, but I believe I've seen the decks riding on the stringers with rubber or plastic spacers, so that where attached at the hull shell may be 1/4 - 1/2" higher than at the stringers, then the spacers epoxied onto the stringers, so that the sole is supported, but isn't directly tied to the stringers, basically allowing a little flex and shift capability. Which is the proper (best) way to do it?

I understand running the shelf or sheer clamp around the top, should I use gussets glassed to the hull to support it? or should I "hang" it from the top edge of the hull? I invision running the clamp directly behind where the old deck was screwed (or riveted) to the hull (right at the top edge). I then envision building about an 8" ledge around the top sides, so that when I drop down to the sole, I can build in rod holders / etc. (basically a pocket design).
Also, as my sides work their way down to the sole, and the "joint" do I join them together, or should it be more of a free floating system. If the later, how would I go about dressing the joint so that it isn't unsightly?

I guess the point of my concern is if there is any flex that should be allowed for, or if everything should be tied together.

Finally, when adding the shelf or sheer clamp, what material should I use? is there composites that I can use so that I don't have to worry about rot? Is it best to use wood that is properly sealed? I'm pretty much sold on using NidaCore in place of plywood where ever I can.

Thanks again!
Wayne