Rubberized coatings on a steel deck

Anybody have experience putting Sanitred rubberized coatings over a painted surface?

I have re-painted my steel decks, (zinc rich epoxy, high build epoxy, then LPU). I am looking at using Sanitred as a non skid coating to guard against chipping when gear gets dropped.

The Sanitred tech support has no data on adhesion to painted surfaces. They recommend putting it over blasted bare steel. Seems a recipe for disaster in a marine environment.

Open to other product suggestions. I have used Awlgrip non-skid particles mixed with LPU paint, good, but did chip and rust when heavy gear dropped. Also considering Treadmaster, but quite expensive to do the whole deck, and taking it off is a huge project.

 

Got the datasheet for the LPU?

You want to make sure it isn't a weaker bond than the epoxy or it'd likely delam.

And you need to chemically test the system. The way you do that is to make a test panel or area, then you apply the coating and lay plastic over it so it will NOT cure; let it sit overnite or as long as you dare and then see if the Sanitred solves the LPU. I don't expect it will, but it is a standard check for compatibility. If the LPU is solved by the Sanitred; you'll be pretty sick if you do the entire deck; come back next day to gooey underneath.

 

Thanks Fallguy.
Does your test work for catalyzed (two part) coatings?

Sanitred is two-part so it will still cure, plastic cover or not. The cured coating would then contain solvents- cannot flash off. Pretty sure this would cause the Sanitred to fail.

International Paint recommended the "cotton ball test" a ball soaked with Xylene (thinner for Sanitred) taped down to the coating. I will try that soon.

 

No. What you would do is follow the recommendation. Sorry, but I only saw single buckets and assumed it was not catalyzed.

What about the LPU datasheet and the Sanitred and epoxy final coat datasheets for adhesion values?

 

Chlorinated rubber compound paint if you can get it. I used it over an epoxy coal tar base to prevent bleed through. On a deck surface it will need anti-slip added as its a smooth surface and slippery when wet. Only prep needed is a clean surface for overpainting. Oil rig and big ship paint.

 

I used some coal tar epoxy in the bilge areas 30 years ago, it is still good! no rust unless something chipped it. I always thought it will bleed through anthing on top. Will have to try the chlorinated paints

 

Do you have any brand or product that you like for chlorinated rubber? I see a huge amount online

 

There was a commercial paint supplier "Smiths" in the UK. The formula is pretty standard, so brand names are not always a good indicator.

 

I see a lot of chlorinated rubber "road marking paint" online. Definitely durable stuff considering the usage. Is that similar?

 

Sanitred is a bit lame "no data on adhesion on other coatings, recommend a test patch"

 

I decided against Sanitred after hearing poor results on long term UV exposure and chemical resistance. Diesel fuel can leave permanent stains. This otherwise seems a good product but perhaps for tropical use it will not have an acceptable life span.

 

I have kiwigrip over epoxy on my fiberglass boat. Rough sanded with 60 grit. Not tested workboat, but it survived 40 hours of walking last fall. I expect an annual recoat if hard use.

 

I ended up settling on zinc 302 primer with 235 on top with grit and 235 for traction. Over about 20 years of steel boat ownership I kind of gave up on most the traction ones and went for easiest to repair. With everything from stainless rings to wrenches to anchors to 6 foot crab pots with corners dig into the deck. Reality was at some point everything was going to get scraped including the very tough but almost impossible to make not slick Line-X. 302 was always good straight over recently blasted material and the 235 is tougher than you think, it held grit really well and held up so well I even did my last glass boats deck when the gel coat was beyond repairable.

On my lower use only about 3 months a year but I could get 2 years out of a coating the other one would last a year with a little over half a year of use but much more metal bouncing off the deck.

 

I like that combination, we used 235 since back when it was Devoe 235. My system 302, 235 then 450 topcoat, all Ameron, very good results with a white blast.

New system we use wet grit blast to avoid restrictions, blow dry then "Stelpant PU-Zinc" this can go on even in light rain, if you are in SE Alaska this would be handy.

 

I had a traditional setup and usually the shelter we were required to put up kept rain out. A friend bough a big green dust less wet blaster but due the location of the yard and the pressure put on it, we're still required to shelter.

235 holds grit with 2x top coats and still has good traction. It's not the most uv stable item and super purple makes it Craze, but I did decks for 14 years with it on a fairly high impact boat and was happy with it for the price. Spent an inordinate amount on a non skid linx that ended up being a nightmare, did the 235 as a quick fix and stuck with it.

Our really heavy impact areas get aptiong, rubber or poly board.... every hard hit just makes a bit more tread.